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More wheel adapter stuff

FM Former Member
I/m confused.
I have a mildly flared body with '71 IRS and 5 x 130 Fuchs wheels. I have wheel "adapters" at all four corners. I have heard that Fuchs wheels are hub-centric rather than bolt-centric. All my adapters seem to bear this out.
My problem is I have one rear wheel that locally rubs the body under hard cornering. First I removed all the inner bead around the wheel opening. Better, but it still rubbed. Then I machined the adapter so it was about 1/4 inch thinner. Better, but it still rubbed. Now I realize I need a 3/4 inch spacer (too thin for the studs-attached adapter products available).
I can buy longer studs. And I see wheel "spacers" from several sources, and they claim to be for Porsches. I see no way they can be hub-centric. (Especially the ones with slots for the stud holes!) Has anyne else been through this?
Meanwhile, I will share with you that IRS without a locking differential drives just fine with a 1 1/4 inch spacer on one side and no spacer at all on the other side. Probably wouldn't want to auto cross it though. Thanks for any insight.
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FM Former Member
I/m confused.
I have a mildly flared body with '71 IRS and 5 x 130 Fuchs wheels. I have wheel "adapters" at all four corners. I have heard that Fuchs wheels are hub-centric rather than bolt-centric. All my adapters seem to bear this out.
My problem is I have one rear wheel that locally rubs the body under hard cornering. First I removed all the inner bead around the wheel opening. Better, but it still rubbed. Then I machined the adapter so it was about 1/4 inch thinner. Better, but it still rubbed. Now I realize I need a 3/4 inch spacer (too thin for the studs-attached adapter products available).
I can buy longer studs. And I see wheel "spacers" from several sources, and they claim to be for Porsches. I see no way they can be hub-centric. (Especially the ones with slots for the stud holes!) Has anyne else been through this?
Meanwhile, I will share with you that IRS without a locking differential drives just fine with a 1 1/4 inch spacer on one side and no spacer at all on the other side. Probably wouldn't want to auto cross it though. Thanks for any insight.
FM Former Member
David,

I don't know how "Fuchs" centers are fastened to the rim. I run steel chrome wheels ( wide 5). The body on my car was also off center. I had a 3/8-1/2 problem on the drivers side. I took the wheel to Stockton wheel in of course Stockton, Ca. I requested that they remove ther center from the rim, Change(increase backside offset) the offset of the center 3/8 of an inch. And then reweld it. Since the center moved to the outer side of the rim, there was no problem with the chrome. I painted the inside of the rim bright re, and wrote "This rim only to be used on rear/driver side"
Cost me $60.00. Now I have the same fender spacing on both sides.


Gclarke

"The Vacaville Guy"
FM Former Member
David,

I just got through some of the teething pains that go with a wider Fuchs set-up. Finally, I rub no more.

Stupid question number 101-A:

With an IRS rear-end your wheel/tire should travel directly up and down during cornering. It shouldn't move out to the lip? should it?

My set-up had issues with the "top-side" of the wider wheel rubbing the flare curve.
I ended up turning a "half-spline" on that sides torsion bar and Voila' no more rub.

Just a thought.

Brian.

FM Former Member
Brian,
Yes, the rear wheel probably moves pretty much straight up and down. The interferring part is on the rear half of the wheel opening. The flaired fender lip cuts across the tire above the centerline of the axle and tire hits it when moving up.
Yeah, my body is off-center, front and back. Or maybe the whole body is not even symmetrical? It is an older design, but I wanted the smaller flairs, not the newer style big flairs.
What is hub-centric? It's when your wheel is located by a close tolerance fit on the angled center hub on your axle. The attaching bolts are for clamping only, not location. My '97 Ford F250 is hub centric. By contrast, bolt centric means your wheel is centered on the bolt circle of however many studs or lug bolts you have. The center hub has a clearance fit. That is why the bolts or lug nuts have an angled surface on them, to accurately locaate each lug onto its stud and thereby locate it accurately onto the bolt circle.

I don't think I have the option of welding a 3/4 inch spacer to the backside of a Fuchs wheel.
Gordon NicholsGordon NicholsMassachusetts 1993 CMC Supporting Member
Dave:

I've got Fuchs 911 5-spoke rims and they are bolt-centric. You must use the proper alloy lug nuts, which have tapered (slightly coned) bases where they meet the rim hole receptors, causing the rim to self-center.

My adapters are So-Cal 4-to-5 bolt rings which are more-or-less bolt centric (the quality isn't exactly Super) but the ring center hole must be 4 inches with no hub flange so there is no way they could be made hub-centric. I doubt that you would much notice the driving difference of the off-set adapters, even in an autocross.

My suggestion would be to get the body up off the tire a bit more by going one inner spline higher on the torsion bar on that side (or both, to even the body off left to right). Come to think of it, is the body currently level or is it lower on the rubbing side?

gn
FM Former Member
hubcentric is when the wheel or adaptor fits snug around the hub so you can "hang" the wheel or spacer on the hub and it will stay centered that way the studs or uts only do the work of retaining the wheel or adaptor in place but not centering, this is a better setup since all the weight is at the hub

non hubcentric setups rely on conical shape lug nuts to align the wheel or spacer as they are tighten, all the weight is at the studs/lugnuts

on my watercooled vw's with 16" wheels I have to use hubcentric rings is the only way to avoid wheel vibration at high speeds
FM Former Member
True Fuchs typically have Fuch capped mag lug nuts. Notice that those lug nuts have the centering shoulder on the nut. (Cost $50 a set) Anyway, the lugs and the lug nuts center the wheels, the wheel has a indented receiver to center on the lug bolt with the lug nut sholder. There is no device on the hubs that center the wheels on Fuchs that I'm aware of. (I've run Fuchs for 20 some years on 911s and now on my Speedster.)
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