Kevin U R a candidate for the PCA club, u would fit right in:}
FYI, IM does use Tenax, on the other hand, there are builder nuances that are there for each builder and you need to make a list of all the points you want to address as some builders will do them if you ask as an option... price goes up sometimes depending on the option you want.
All good comments guys and I appreciate every one of them. I know enough to be dangerous right now - full disclosure. It's going to take me some time to sort out and figure out what I want. My plan is to educate myself on the original cars by going to shows and buys some restoration books. There is a local car show in CT by PCA and the feature this year is the 356 so it's a start. This will be a process for me and a journey. Yes, I am very familiar with the replica vs. original debate and what original owners think of "our" cars. I've met more nice guys than DH but there are a few. My Cobra I built as close to an original as I could from a visual standpoint. I travel up and down the east coast document original unrestored Cobra's. My car is a street car with under car exhaust vs. S/C with side pipes. Anywho, the journey begins...
IM can do wide 5s with IRS but you still have to get front VW torsion bar. Can't get 914 or 911 front suspension with wide 5s. My estimate of $50k for a Beck and $70k for a IM is considering that he wants as close to accurate as possible. Square weave, under dash e-brake, wide 5's etc. is going to add up. And I really doubt he's going to want a 1600 cc engine.
Phil's comment was from a couple of years ago, but IM can now do the wide 5's with the 914/911 front suspension.
The details cost because they're a lot of work. But for some people, the whole point is to get as close to the "real deal" as you can. I'm a little like that too.
Since you have a Cobra already, you know how damn impractical a car with side curtains is for actual transportation duties. I'd still suggest you at least try out a well-sorted Speedster replica before taking the plunge and building one yourself. Sit in one. Ride in one. Get familiar with the sounds and smells—and the interior dimensions. Only then should you commit to your dream.
And even then, the purchase of a nicely finished used Speedster might be the way. Drive it for a season or two, make a list of likes and dislikes, then start building your dream car. Or not.
For "practicality" it's very hard to beat a stock 2.2 Subaru. Yeah, the game will be up when you lift the lid, but you won't need to lift the lid so much because NO WEBERS, no 009 disty, no Chinese coil, etc. and so on. I installed an EJ22 in the wrong end of my MGTD replica and it's a beautiful thing: 137 horsepower in an 1800-pound package, smooth torque from idle till it bounces off the factory rev limiter at 6000 rpm, once-a-season oil changes, no leaks, no valve adjustments, no worries about over heating, and did I mention the idle jets never clog because I ain't got none? Because they don't.
My ideal Speedster replica would have something like that out back and roll-up windows: A Cabriolet replica.
Wide-5 wheels are cool but spendy to get good disc brakes behind. You can roll any number of aftermarket and/or Porsche rims with just a little machine work, but those Bug-kit-car-giveaway 8-slot Mangles can be made to look very passably like rare knock-on Rudge wheels for the price of some thick pie tins and stainless acorn nuts. Like they say, the purists will turn their noses up, but only after you make them look hard. I love doing that!
Have fun. We're here to spend your money.
Good advice sir. I'd love to pic one up used and love to drive in one as well. Haven't been able to find anyone local to start with that but it's only been a couple of days. The suby engine seems to be of interest because my wife hates driving in the Cobra because it stinks she says. Yup, it does.
@Frank Zabski, Milford CT. (can I call you 428?), the Beck folks are going to have a deal available on a nicely sorted and thoroughly refurbished Speedster in a bit. I had a minor mishap (ok, maybe not that minor) in my car in February that is necessitating a whole new front end, which means the exterior will have all new paint. and new front trim. The folks who manufactured it are rebuilding so it WILL be done properly. I have a new coupe coming and the sale of my Speedster is supporting that, otherwise I'd be getting it back. It'd be a good deal and a relatively painless way to test out Speedster ownership. Contact Carey Hines (@chines1) if you're interested. Lots of folks on this site are familiar with the car, so it has no secrets. I can send plenty of details on engine, etc., if you're interested.
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Oh yeah... If you're in the eastern half of the country please consider joining us in late September for our "2018 Tour de Smo" in the TN/NC Smoky Mountains. We have folks coming from as far away as Chicago and Ontario, so distance shouldn't be an excuse. You're welcome without a Speedster (the Cobra or Healey would be perfect) and should have plenty of time to compare manufacturers and get some seat time. Check out the "Tour de Smo" thread in the "Events" forum for details.
Thanks Lane on both fronts. I just came back from the SM with my son. We started in Gatlinburg and drove to Nashville then Charleston, SC for his 18th birthday. I doubt I can make it this year. As for your car, I'm simply not ready yet and rather then waste your time I'm gonna pass for right now. We certainly can talk about Speedsters if you'd like but I don't want to mislead you in any way.
Hey, BTW: The annual Volkswagen show is at Hebert's Candy Mansion in Shrewsbury, MA. (just east of Worcester on RT 20) on July 28'th this year ( a little earlier than in the past) and we usually get 6+ Speedsters to show up. You might want to come on up! I'll be there, and I'll see how many others from lower/central New England I can get. One of the regulars bought his car from a gentleman in Milford a few years ago and I helped him go pick it up. I live just SE of Worcester. The closest member to you is either Lenny C. in Bristol or Danny P in Wallkill, NY. A bunch of us show up at the Lime Rock Historic races over Labor Day, too.
428Street, Milford CT. posted:Thanks Lane on both fronts. I just came back from the SM with my son. We started in Gatlinburg and drove to Nashville then Charleston, SC for his 18th birthday. I doubt I can make it this year. As for your car, I'm simply not ready yet and rather then waste your time I'm gonna pass for right now. We certainly can talk about Speedsters if you'd like but I don't want to mislead you in any way.
No worries. Too bad we couldn't touch base while you were here in Charleston. Enjoy the hunt.
If I only knew Lane. Maybe next year. Gordon, thanks for the info. Going to put it in my calendar for this year and make an effort to get up there for sure. Thank you.
My long-standing advice (which, along with one dollar, will buy you a coffee at McDonald’s) to all prospective owners remains the same as it always has been: buy a used car that may not have everything you think you want. Give it a try for a couple seasons, go to some get-togethers, really settle in and see if this is something you would be interested in him for the long-haul.
Then order a car. The chances of getting it right the first time up to the plate are very, very, very slim.
Stan... A Senior coffee at Mickey D's is just .63 :~)
Stan Galat posted:My long-standing advice (which, along with one dollar, will buy you a coffee at McDonald’s) to all prospective owners remains the same as it always has been: buy a used car that may not have everything you think you want. Give it a try for a couple seasons, go to some get-togethers, really settle in and see if this is something you would be interested in him for the long-haul.
Then order a car. The chances of getting it right the first time up to the plate are very, very, very slim.
That is very true.... I have hit the like button three times ;0 )
I think the key is to do as much research as possible. Go to get togethers. Speak to owners. See the cars and ride in them. Maybe even drive one if you find a generous owner. And you must go to the shops. I've been to Vancouver, Bremen and LA multiple times. See the shops. Talk to the builders and tour the shops. And like Stan said after you find the car and builder you like maybe buy a used car. I bought a used IM 356A Type D and decided to go back to a spyder. I've researched all 4 replicas I've owned. But that being said it has taken me 30 years to actually build the car that is perfect for me. And its still not perfect. They never are. But that's ok. It's all part of the madness.
Is 35k a reasonable price point for a used one possibly with a Subaru motor?
It would be tough to get a water cooled IM for that. Beck will likely be in upper $30k range. Maybe a JPS.
You might also get involved with the Connecticut VW club. Here is their calendar for 2018:
So that begs the question and one I was going to ask but figured my initial angle would be softer, what does a good used relatively accurate 356 used speedster go for? Understand there are many options on any given used car but assume a water cooled engine.
So one with a Subaru engine is not anywhere near accurate! Here's a really nice air cooled one (not a true Speedster though) for $45k that many here have seen - was once owned by SOC site Admin.
https://www.speedsterowners.co...6#576929964486203526
To be specific, that's a Convertible D, not a Speedster, although the differences are minor: Roll-up windows, taller windshield, nicer top, and that's pretty much it. A lot of folks prefer the extra comfort and weather resistance. The D was the successor to the Speedster.
Gordon Nichols posted:Hey, BTW: The annual Volkswagen show is at Hebert's Candy Mansion in Shrewsbury, MA. (just east of Worcester on RT 20) on July 28'th this year ( a little earlier than in the past) and we usually get 6+ Speedsters to show up. You might want to come on up! I'll be there, and I'll see how many others from lower/central New England I can get. One of the regulars bought his car from a gentleman in Milford a few years ago and I helped him go pick it up. I live just SE of Worcester. The closest member to you is either Lenny C. in Bristol or Danny P in Wallkill, NY. A bunch of us show up at the Lime Rock Historic races over Labor Day, too.
Yeah, there should be some Speedsters there. Also there is a meet in Terryville at the Fairgrounds.
We definitely go to Lime Rock Labor Day weekend.
I don't know how much help we'd be with Spyders, Lenny and I. We might turn this guy to the dark side!
Nothing wrong with THAT!
Even those spoiled and pampered by a Conv D can be drawn to the dark side. 
All good info guys and I appreciate it all. I already put the VW show on my calendar. Yes I know the water cooled engine is not original but I'm going towards that direction simply so I can enjoy it as much as possible and I have a shot at getting my wife in the car. Right now with my other carberated vehicle she will not step foot because of the "stink" as she calls it. I think I'm going to go with as close to a visual clone as possible and the drivetrain as modern and reliable as possible if there is such a thing. I do like the 550 but I love the Speedster 
550 Phil posted:Even those spoiled and pampered by a Conv D can be drawn to the dark side.
Didn't you start with a Spyder, sell it, build another one, sell it, then buy the 'D'?
There is no recovery from the dark side!
428, possibly you are set too rich on the Cobra? What do you have for induction?
My Spyder only makes me smell like gas when I sit in the garage and tune. It doesn't stink just driving it at all.
The cobra is pretty dialed in. I have a pertronix EI module in the dizzy. The Cobra is less the issue but I have a couple of International Scouts and those things just stink pretty bad. New Holley 2300 carb and just about to put in a pertronix unit on that as well. I'm sure it could use a good rebuild as well. It's the original motor (304 V8) and it's probably on the tired side.
1998 Vintage Spyder 2109cc CB Performance
2003 Vintage Spyder 2.5L DOHC Subaru (first Suby Spyder ever)
2013 bought 2009 used Intermeccanica 356A Type D 2.0L VW/Audi water cooled
2018 Vintage Motorcars Spyder 2.5L SOHC Subaru (high performance 230hp)
Its been quite a ride but until I can't get in and out of it, I'm keeping this last one.
I know I previously said I've been doing kit cars for 30 years. In 1988 I read a Car and Driver magazine with the Beck Spyder. Finished med school, did my residency, had 3 kids and 10 years later I finally got that Spyder.
Wow Phil, quiet the list sir So you've had both air cooled and water cooled. My guess is your prefer the WC engine?
550 Phil wrote: I'm keeping this last one.
Most here have heard me mutter similar words, having said that 55 times to date :~)
Had my car build book at Carlisle a few paged through it, 55 projects to date including 45 Speedsters....I need to post a list here one day.
Alan. Everyone on this site would love to see that list.
I’ve got some 48 dellortos in their original boxes never been used that I bought 20 years ago. I try to convince myself that I’ll build that type 4 with those dells some day put it in a nice car and learn to work on air cooled engines. Will probably never happen. But I’m still keeping the dells. Maybe I’ll use them for bookends in my man room.
So guys from my research of 3/4 days looks like there are two types of replicas, frame based and VW pan based correct? Pan based being more of the original design?
No. OG 356s were unibody. Please take this in the spirit in which it is intended: you are asking the wrong questions.
The original was unibody. Pan is inferior, tube frame is superior. IM & Beck are your only tube frame choices.
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428Street, Milford CT. posted:So guys from my research of 3/4 days looks like there are two types of replicas, frame based and VW pan based correct? Pan based being more of the original design?
No.
Let's start off with this, whichever builder or Speedster you buy, pan-based or custom frame, the body will be the same. You won't notice a difference in any of the bodies. The windshields are the same, the body moldings are the same, and the differences in mirrors will depend on the style you choose.
All of the builders offer 4 lug or wide 5's so that will change the visual appearance but that is your choice. As you may know the 4 lug rims only have 8 slots in them and that is not period correct. The wide 5's have 10 slots in them and that is more period correct.
You can choose to have beehives, early years to mid 1956 (?), or teardrops. The taillights give a visual reference to the year of manufacture for the originals.
After you walk up to the car you will notice subtle differences between pan-based and a custom frame car. The tunnel is more square and it's lower in a custom frame car. This is closer to original than a pan-based car which has a taller and more rounded tunnel.
Both a pan-based and a custom frame car have center-mounted hand brakes which isn't period correct but both builders can make that change to an umbrella hand brake if you want to pony up the $$.
Seats on either car are mounted and adjust differently than the originals. The back seats in either pan-based or custom frame cars isn't period correct etc. See Kevin's list on page 1 for all of the other difference.
Most everyone in this hobby has to get up close to tell one manufacturer from the other because it's the subtle differences that are the tells. The only way to get a car close to looking original is to build it yourself or be prepared to spend more $$$$ having the builders do it for you.
Awesome info Robert, thank you. I'm getting a better idea each day and have found a bunch of info online about the original cars and eBay of all places has many 356 original cars with pics of the underside of the car because to me a picture is worth a 1000 words. I'm getting it slowly. You mentioned one thing to me which is critical, regardless of which replica I buy the bodies will all look fairly similar if I understand what you wrote above correctly which is probably 85% of what I am looking for. In the Cobra world I've been involved in for 10+ years there are MANY replicas that kinda look like a Cobra and then there are some that are visual clones. All the lines are correct, stance is correct, etc. Thats what I am really looking for.
Tom, further question. I'm using pan in the wrong context obviously because I just don't know the difference. Can you explain a little more between the two pan vs. unibody. Unibody is the original design and pan is what the VW's used?
A VW pan with a body bolted on is basically a shortened beetle with a pretty body.
> On May 31, 2018, at 5:33 PM, SpeedsterOwners.com <**************> wrote:
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> On May 31, 2018, at 5:33 PM, SpeedsterOwners.com <**************> wrote:
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