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Very cool,everything in its place ,and all tools, etc. have a home.
Looks like no teenagers around here , or, if there is, their well trained!!! Stu
What size did you decide on? Heads, cam, carbs, exhaust? hp expectations?
PS- just looked at one of the other pics and saw (what I think is) a stock crank? So, 1776 or 1915?
So ported stock valve heads, Engle W100 cam (or similar specs; will rev to 5000rpm), 8- 8 1/4:1 cr, dual carbs, and 1 3/8" sidewinder? Don't forget the full flow filter and the sump.
please dont tell me your puting a stock non counterweighted crank in your motor. Get a good china chromoly crank for $250or less about any stroke you want. or if you want a vw welded counterweighted crank get a dpr for about $400+(not sure on his prices the last one I bought of his was a while back,but I would rather have the china 4340 chromoly, nitrided crank.
the reason for all the new cases??? because the non counterweighted vwcranks beat the case&bearing to death.
solid shaft rocker dosent add hp just more reliable if set up properly,I buy compleate new sets instead of trying to reuse woreout 40 year old vw stuff.but there any where from $99.&up scat has a very good 1.25 raito bolt on kit. as does bugpoop & empi&cb. good luck with your build & have fun with it. remember making it reliable is worth a lot more than you will save by using parts that are not up to par. And why not someday today, its not hard,just a crank&piston swap.do the heads lator if you dont have the $ for them now,(also might want to add a step biger cam the 100 is way tame for a big motor but it will work.
...also might want to add a step biger cam the 100 is way tame for a big motor but it will work.
It's the right cam for stock valve heads and a stock crankshaft. We have to work with what he has planned; not what we think he should do.
If Roland is the builder, he could have the crankshaft inspected at DPR; it's only 20 minutes away. I'm sure Roland can put any questions to rest regarding the crank. If I were to ever put together a type I again, I wouldn't consider a Chinese crank.
TDR-I think you've got the right engine builder for the job!
ok doky, I wonder why they bother welding counterweights on them. racing is a bit different then street driving,there have been oh so many raced motors with out counterweighted cranks that did just fine and didnt beat the case out.but to date I have never tore appart any vw engine (street engine,stock vw crank engine,non counterweighted) that did not have the case beat to death and need lineboring. Not 1. and yet to this day I have not tore appart a counterweighted motor that needed the case linebored...go figure? I also send my cranks to jose to be balanced since I nolonger have a balancer. good luck & have fun
Hi Roland- Good to see you join us; I've heard nothing but good about you and sharing your knowledge here will only add to the rep. With what's been described (1915, 85-90hp, solid rockers), am I correct in guessing the motor is getting stock valve heads (any porting?), dual carbs and an Engle W100ish cam (TDR's pic does show a cam with a bolt on gear)?
ok doky, I wonder why they bother welding counterweights on them. racing is a bit different then street driving,there have been oh so many raced motors with out counterweighted cranks that did just fine and didnt beat the case out.but to date I have never tore appart any vw engine (street engine,stock vw crank engine,non counterweighted) that did not have the case beat to death and need lineboring. Not 1. and yet to this day I have not tore appart a counterweighted motor that needed the case linebored...go figure? I also send my cranks to jose to be balanced since I nolonger have a balancer. good luck & have fun
I'm starting to really like you, Mark.
FWIW, he's right.
Yes, Mark is right, but it all comes down to the budget; what someone is willing to spend at this time.
I dont understand that budget thing, then again I dont drink, dont smoke and only chase the one Im married to. I cant see why any body would not do it right the first time.instead of doing it 3,4,5 times just making piles of junk parts in thier wake. $600 for the stroker kit,crank,bearings,rods,all of it.is the rest of the car free? or just taped togeather?or did they spend real $$ on it. cut out some lunches,cookies&chips,steak&ribs, & just change your diet a little and sometimes there is plenty left over for what you want, and you might loose a few pounds while your doing it. just like the subway $5 foot long(11")when were on the road out out doing whatever it's plenty for 2 people to have and that is $2.50 each witch beats the squat out of $20.00+ each at most other places. there are all kinds of ways to save a little hear and a little there and it adds up quick. just like a bag of tyson chicken tenderloins or breast about 7 for about what you pay just for 1 cooked at a CHEEP SANDWITCH JOINT ,but you may have to cook it your self, and I do a lot of grilling hear in paradice. so if you want and expect something reliable then build it that way, spend a little more and do it. hell scat has thier zero mile 2332 for about $3200. thats less than I had in parts for my 2332, and it's assembled. thier kit is about $500 less.about 200 less for aa pistons.and it's all new. if you dont understand where Im coming from, Ive been a performance machinest & engine builder for 30+ years. and the amount of pure junk that has come through my door because somebody didnt want to spend an extra $100 on a $5000 motor that lasted no time at all. well it's sickining.or they had jimbobjoe build it in the back of his shut down service station (aka a shed) and does jimbob drive??? no dont have a car too many dui's, just lives in the shed&has a busted bycycle he cant seem to fix. Some times a good deal isant such a good deal if you remove your self and look at it from another perspective witch might be from a tow truck front seat on the interstate. I'm not pointen no fingers, or ruffleing no feathers, but I dont work on my bug motor I just drive the **** out of it& change tee synthetic oil 1 time a year (8-12000 miles) and check the valves the same week witch usualy dont need any adjustment. I like building, not workin on. If it's built right it dont need any work.and right includes the right good parts.and sofar as of yet I havent found any bad china parts execpt for some knock off rockerarms on flebay cheep, I found out what they needed then ordered me another set for my other motor then fixed them.cheeper than the identicle bugpoop ones witch I would still do all the same stuff to, but I saved the amount of a set of rockers. Im DFL coating a few sets of pistons&bearings & ceramic coating the piston tops this week , about 1/4 of the way done.I dont like stuff that wears out, so I fix it befor it even gets in my motors.like I said I dont like working on this stuff once it's done. there are somany things to be done to a motor to make it work easyer,better,longer,quieter,stronger and get better mpg. Or just throw it togeather and do it again because it made somuch awassom raw horse power the parts just could not take it any longer and do it all over again. I am retired now and when this last motor for a guy in alabama is done, it's just my stuff from then on.I havent had time to do any thing on 2 new motors of mine everything still in boxes (well 1 all new&1 3years run time getting a roller cam conversion when I can get to it) Ive been building engines since I was about 6.there all about the same execpt for turbine&rotery.I havent done a turbine yet but plan to. Rotery was so simple, and it was afu in a box when I got to it,Ran great when I finished. engines are just like women. Got to treat them right& they will do the same to you......well most of them.just dont loan either out to your buddys...........
Mark's solution to save money for car stuff reminds me of a quote from Howard Arneson. He's an exceptionally cool guy, with 45 patents, including the pool sweep, Arneson Surface Drive, etc. He's got more time over 100 mph in a boat than any living person.
His philosophy: I love fast cars, fast boats, and fast women, and 2 out of 3 ain't bad!
Ive worked on boats with the arneson drive before, and been well over 100 on the water many times .pretty smart feller he is that arneson