Still trying to figure out how to mount Marchals on my IM. IM does not mount the fog lights directly to the bumpers. Example below. Unfortunately all of these brackets are custom. Its really tough trying to figure out how to do with without a metal shop. Are most folks mounting fog lights directly to bumpers? Any pictures of fog lights directly to bumpers?
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Have you contacted Henry (IM) to see if he will sell you a set of the brackets?
He only has brackets in his bin for air cooled cars and suby cars. The front fender mounting bracket on my car is completely different than that on the suby cars for some reason. Probably has something to do with my car, a 2.0 vw/Audi, having a different front radiator. He has offered to make me some brackets when his fabricator has some free time. Very gracious I thought. But the fabrication would be based on information provided by me. Real good chance that would get screwed up. So I'm thinking maybe I'll just mount them to the bumpers. Just wanted to see some pics and hear of any problems with doing it this way. Probably the closer to the car the better?
The first pic is the bracket that Henry makes for air cooled and suby cars. Its used in the first picture I posted. The other 2 pics are my bumper off the car.
I assume none of the clamp type devices from Sierra Madre, Mid America Motorworks etc., won't pass muster? If you do look at those, make certain you don't get the ones for busses, they are too tall and bulky for our cars. I found that out via a $65 experience that later netted me $40 at a swap meet after I tried them out and sold them.
I have Porsche 914 Hella fog lights (they are not real deep - see avatar) mounted to the fiberglass bumper on a CMC. Just inside of the overriders where the fiberglass bumper is wider and follows the nose in on either side. I put stainless steel washers either side to spread out the stress vibration. Your bumper bracket looks to only catch one bolt on either side? Are the bumper ends attached to car say with a rubber piece. It looks like your bracket could be made longer (weld a piece on) to catch another bumper bolt (looks like there is another one in photo - on second look it appears to be a rivet which could be drilled and replaced with SS bolt after removing the rubber trim strip.). Here photo from web - not mine. A welder could beef up your bracket with some gussets to make it less flexible. If the existing bracket vibrates long enough - it will crack either side of an existing weld (metal fatigue) and the bumper will end up dragging on road with you running over it!
Phil, it looks to me from your pictures that if you have room between the bumper (installed) and the body you could goto a metal shop and get two plates of steel and make a bracket(s) (say hockey stick bent) to be bolted to your angled bars on the bumper mount and then using the same type of pattern that was posted before have the bracket have a hole to mount your light.
You could experiment with a few small metal bars from Harbor freight. I just quickly drew over the pict below... but two bolts should hold it and plate steel is pretty strong to hold those marshals.
Finally, you could powder coat them if you want once you have the design right.
If not... use a cardboard and make a pattern of your bracket and send it to Henry with all the dimensions.
Hard to make up your mind sometimes but a mok up helps to flesh things out for me. 
Here's CMC bumper bracket that is made from 1/8" thick steel bar. I marked in red where its welded by CMC on either side. The 2 holes go to bumper and the other end is undrilled for attachment to other beam mounted bumper bracket. Although the bracket won't work on yours, modifying yours for 2 bolts each side (or even the one side) will make it sturdier. (on CMC one bolt is the aluminum overridder and the other just extra bolt thru bumper covered by the rubber trim.
The bracket is a good idea Wolfgang, but the alignment of the bumper is a derivative of the Radiator mount and how much stuff that is under the front body lip which is why it is so thin. Those bumpers are for looks...don't you know 
... Ray
Bob. All of those mounts are designed for horizontal bumper brackets. So no they will not work. The only part of my bumper bracket below the open space between the car and the bumper is the angled part of the bumper bracket. I'm thinking maybe I could bolt an L shaped piece of thick metal to the angled part of the bumper bracket. Kind of like below.
Wolfgang. 6 total bolts hold bumper in place. 2 for each bumper bracket and additional bolts at the ends of each side of the bumper (with rubber, not shown) secure the bumper to the car. Its pretty robust.
Sorry, I'm no help here.
Ray. Exactly my thought.
Phil, I tried to show the bend in the hockey stick (two boxes) to follow the bracket of the bumper then you simply go North and do the 90 degree bend with the hole as you have shown and it should work.
Essentially as long as you have two bolts on the lamp bracket holding it to the bumper you have a good clamp set up so to speak. If you can't locate two bolts then you have to make a hockey stick style bracket ... just saying.
Jbugs in Costa Mesa has a couple different mounting brackets. I just ordered some for mine with fog lights. I found a Hela switch on Amazon and a waterproof wiring harness. Hopefully this will make the install a bit quicker.
This is harder than it looks.
Maybe, but it looks as though it'll work!
Well that is the spirit, your getting there.
Do you need any locking washers on there? If you decide you do not want to powdercoat them, Rustoleum makes an appliance epoxy in black that will shine like the porcelain of a fridge I use it all the time it makes for an awesome finish looking just like powder coating
Looks like stainless steel? I'd use SS nylock locking nuts. They will vibrate off otherwiotherwiseput bigger SS washers on the brackets where they are bolted to bumper blades too.
I have a set of the brackets (new in box) shown in the last pic if anyone is interested in them ...PM me an offer.
Mounted. Just drove 60 miles with no rattles. Thanks for all the great advice. Now for the electrics. Used 1/8 inch steel bar like Gordon suggested, design like Ray suggested and even went with nylon nuts per Wolfgang
Wow looks great Phil what are you planning for switch and wiring?
I think I'll get a switch from Henry just to keep it looking IM. Lots of good wiring harnesses out there. I'm going to wire it so I can burn fogs without headlights. Likely use them as day time running lights.
Phil, I used my fogs as daytime running lights too. When Henry rewired my IM I had him wire the fogs through the ignition, so I didn't have to remember to turn the lights on and off.
That is an idea, but can you access the back of the dash easily? If yes, you can get an IM button put it on the dash painted top part (Henry can paint the button your colour) if not I would suggest a small rocker switch. That is what I used for my additional LED footwell lights but could be made to drive a relay and your fogs. I used a small plastic box from am electronic store to house it and then used velcro to hold it just under the A/C Panel .... As long as you make it switched on Ignition it will allow you to control it as you want and much less fuss. To turn it on I reach for the edge of the panel and feel for it quite easily..I can send picts if you want. 
with a button.
Finally done. I need a nicer switch. I can always do that.
Very nice, Phil!
I see the light Very Nice for sure. Now you just need a circuit to make them flash when you honk the horn ....just saying.
I've got the same question going on 2 different posts. How many wires do you have going to your switch. I have red (+), black (-) and a white going to the relay. Your switch has 2 prongs. If you also have 3 wires, which wires go to the 2 prongs?
"How many wires do you have going to your switch. I have red (+), black (-) and a white going to the relay.
From the switch? Without seeing it, my guess would be: Red (+) to the relay comes from the switch. Black (-) to the relay is ground and White to the relay is the wire going to the fog/driving lamps. The relay should have four wires going to it to work properly (unless I'm missing something). A photo or diagram might help.
"Your switch has 2 prongs. If you also have 3 wires, which wires go to the 2 prongs?"
That gets tougher, since I don't know exactly what they're for. Are there numbers on the relay base where the wires attach?
As I noted on the other thread, the reason you have a ground wire/tab on the switch is to complete the circuit for the lamp in the switch. That's all. If you don't have a lamp in the switch, you won't need a ground for the switch.
Other than that, either of your diagrams will work.
You're just trying to close one main circuit (which is normally "off" or "open" if the switch is "off") but consider the switch lamp to be a "slave circuit" that parallels the main circuit. The main circuit (usually) provides +12V to one side of the relay coil. The other side of the relay coil attaches to a ground. Applying +12V to the relay coil causes its contacts to close. The contacts are separate from the coil wires. One side of the contacts goes to a known +12V source which could be a fused, always powered circuit (since the relay is operated by the switch which gets its power from the ignition circuit) and the other side of the contacts goes to your fog/driving lights.
There's a bit more info on the other thread, too.
That's it - my head hurts...... gn
see the other post for pict
