My build update

Been a long year since my last post (https://www.speedsterowners.com/forum/readmsg.asp?t=16591 ) Lots of long nights, longer days but the results seem to be worth the effort. Since my old post is considered "historic" I have stared this post for a status. I will add some pictures later but to summarize:

- Body mounted on restored pan (all new hardware)
- Seats installed with proper anchored seatbelts
- Shifter rewelded (check your inherited projects for accuracy!)
- Brakes upgraded to 4 discs-cross drilled
- Wheels selected (not trivial)
- full rewire (all automotive wiring done)
- Fuel cell fabricated
- Oil catch can fabricated
- Full equal length 4-2-1 stainless header and exhaust fabricated with custom stainless steel flanges.
- Door handle linkage reworked
- Top secret GT-40 style stainless bumperettes completed

Last but not least California YOM black and Yellow plates!

Since shakedown was aproaching complete. Adding the finishing details like inner door handles, matching turn lenses, brake lights, speedo, carpet etc. were taking a lot of time. Deffinatley the devil is in the details. All went well in that phase.

One hicup was the inner door handle belcranks had to be extended. I cut and reweled the drivers side first (added 3/8 in) and then found out the passenger side was made from pot metal- CRAP! Since that one was the one I oreder from CIP I was worried no one would carry a NOS or quality piece. I ended up solving this by visiting pick and pull and found one lonley bug where I grabbed: bellcranks, a new front set of KYB gas shocks (all this time I have been driving with no shocks), new fan (so I can weld it), and a wiper assembly. SCORE!

Next step was to play Jesse James and fab a real exhaust system for the car.

Eric - awesome project pics! It will be interesting to hear about your initial shake-down cruise in that bad-boy! Best of luck with the rest of your project.

Building a real exhaust system for this car will be a challenge. I almost tried to do it with the engine still in the car but since I had a nagging rear main leak I decided to drop it out.

Obviously I could have bought a OTS A-1 system but I thought I could build one better (perfectly equal length and still fit a CB filter pump) so decision was made to build a 4-2-1 system very simliar to the A1 but "better, and cheaper" of course.

Parts were all order, scrounged another 2.5 Ultra flow muffler from my old drag car (glad I save these things!) and when the parts came I I started mocking things up. What I ended up with was a 4-2-1 system with all primarys +/- .75 (1.625 x 39) inches (well all were spot on except #1 and I could have fixed it but got lazy) The secondaries were 1.75 x 6 inches. The collector is 2.0 with a transisiton to 2.5 inches. The muffler has all 2.5 tube and a three point mount to flanges on cyl 1 and 2.

Once got it all on I was worried about any rubbing since it was tight in few areas. Time will tell.

First impressions are OMG! I would guess I added 10 HP to the engine over the S&S 1.625 merged header with 37 in. primaries. Plus it is quieter at idle and once the cam comes on it really has a pronounced "bark" I love it. If you want more details on the exhuast or info on parts let me know. I would estimate the time in this exhuast is about 30-40 hrs. The next one would be about half the time.

BTW: I had to get the header flanges water jet here locally since no one sells stainless header flanges. I can sell them to you guys at cost.

Here are a couple of more pictures. BTW ask the guy at the counter of your VW parts shop how much the cloth wrapped hose is BEFORE you buy 8 ft of it.

Eric, Wonderful job ! ~Alan

After getting the car together and all automotive sytems ie ignition, charging, and gauges etc. I began the shake down. No real issues except that the engine developed a few leaks on shakedown 1)pushrod tubes 3-4 2) back of engine 3)pushrod tubes 1-2

I investigated the pushrod tubes and found that they were wobbling around at idle...not good. Valve covers came off and I found 7 of 8 push rods were bent. To make a long story short. 1.25 SCAT rockers do not come in at 1.25:1 ratio. They are more like 1.4:1 if you measure valve lift. I thought that they had been mispackaged and got the builder to supply another set. and found the lift was the same. So, nix the SCAT rockers and put a set of stock 1.1:1's in and replace/cut all pushrods (a nice excersise for me since all my experience has been overhead cam watercooled VW's)

After that shake down continues and chase the next leak to the rear main.

All the while I have been driving the car in the neighborhood, sliding it sideways and having fun with my 1955cc speedster.

Looking good! What a difference a year makes.

~WB

DANG, Eric! You got some MAD SKILZ!! Nice job on the extractor!

That header looks great. very tight, not hanging too low, and looks like you can get the valve covers off. Thanks for the tip, too, on the Scat rockers. That's weird.

She's nice and clean, Eric! Great job!
It's nice to see what a determined guy can do with a Speedster build!

The first three letters of the black and yellow plate say a lot ...

Geez, DIY 356 would be perfect, wouldn't it?

Absolutely beautiful job. I think your work is very neat, looks professional, especially the exhaust routing and welding.

I do have a small criticism though, you should get rid of the cheap plastic fuel filter before it burns your beauty to the ground.....

And avoid the see through glass and chrome hot rod filters, too. They are almost guaranteed to leak. Metal is the only safe way to go.

Very nice work, Eric. That exhaust is a knockout. Could you please tell about your fuel tank ? Material, type of joints, type of welder and did you have to seal or slosh the inside ? Thanks.

Fuel filters: I use two ( one as a prefilter at the tank) this one is an older Chrysler style filter ( available at Auto Zone or Advance Auto Parts) it resembles a tuna can with inlet and outlet at opposite ends.
Best to keep filters out of the engine bay I mount a metal fuel filter along the 2 x 2 rear rail in the driver's side wheel well area.

Can't begin to tell you how many times I have seen Beetles with a one dollar plastic fuel filter laying on top of the distributor....just waitng to leak 'n light.

Thanks for the tips on the fuel filter. I haven't felt good about the plastic one either. Especially when I took it out to pull the engine. It was pretty soft.

I didn't want to build a cell however, the standard sizes would barley fit or would cause me to cut the car.

The Fuel cell is made of .090 thk 5052 aluminum. I bent two identical three sided peices (top and bottom) across the grain and then capped it off with the ends. I ended up with two fillet welds along the long side and two fillets-all around on the end caps. Inside there are two baffles that mimic the end caps but fit inside. I took each corner off to allow communication between the three sections. I leak checked it with the cap on and my argon tank and regulator from my tig machine plumbed into the -6 port on the bottom. On found two pin hole in the welds (suprisingly less than I thought) Keep your aluminum weld joints clean is not to be taken lightly.

The fill cap was from summit and despite the description of the part it does NOT have a breather built in (also JEGS and Jazz sell the sam one). I added another breather. When I put all 11 gallons into it, I do get some gasoline smell so when that gets annoying I will run the vent out to the bottom of the car or into a carbon canister.

If I were to build another I would leave the baffles out and "buck up" and buy some foam.

The valve train was binding at the upper sring retainers and top of the valve guides. This was happening at about .480 in. of lift. Which happens to be just what the Engle 120 and 1.25:1 rockers will give you. With 1:1.1's its around .430 lift. In the local VW shops people thought that the 120 cam would be too much for single springs. But my engine builder with 1000's of engines under his belt said otherwise. I decide to error on the conservative side. I can build a hot rod engine later. That is another story. Can you say BUSA? More on that later.

Thats great news about your car, Eric! Those plasma cutters are awesome!

I wanted to update again... The car made several trips in the neighborhood and one long one to Monterey (~130 miles round trip) without issue. I have been pleased with everything so far.

Rear shocks on the car kyb gas adjust and found some Koni sports from a Opel for the front. Since my car is not slammed I will need to build some spacers.

Another new break thru.... I have started a CNC Plasma operation to compliment the milling, lathe and welding capibilites in my shop. The first Speedster related project that will be flowing first are sheet metal close out panels for CMC's any interest? I feel bad I did not do this sooner as the $400 for stainless header flanges, and GT-40 bumpers was money down the drain and could have went into the machine.

So, any CNC plasma work you all need or can think of, let me know. I have Corel X5 for graphical work and use Pro-Engineer WF 4.0 on my day job (design work doesn't not present a challenge)

Attached: .090 thk 5051 aluminum (right off the table-no clean up) and .100 thk MS (no clean up either)

http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt314/dragrabbit/DSC04356.jpg

http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt314/dragrabbit/DSC04359.jpg

http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt314/dragrabbit/DSC04348.jpg

***Forgot to mention I have a 4x4 (ft) working surface and can do up to 4x8 with software tweaks. Thickness up to 3/4" steel, 3/8" Aluminum

Nice stuff, Eric. Quite the project. Could you please advise what tig
welder you are using ? I need to make up four fuel cells for a different type of project and I'll be using .050" 5052 aluminum. My research says a Miller Diversion 165 should fit the bill. Any advice welcomed. Thanks..

I have a diversion 180. I love it. There is a great deal now on them with a 250$ miller bucks check. For the record I thought about the 165 too but knew of the180 coming out so I waited. Very well worth the extra few bucks for the headroom and extra duty cycle.

If I were to change anything about it that would be to change the torch cables. And there are people who are already doing these types of mods. More flexible cable will help your hands control the torch better if you are a novice welder like me.

Don't forget to put a breather hole in you tank before you fully weld it up!

I would like to show some recent parts cut on my CNC table. 12 inch diameter 1/4 thk mild steel and 4 inch dia. .090 aluminum. Like I said I can create and copy logos. I am working on the "outlaw" logo for my wall in my shop ;-)

Hit me up if you have any ideas.

Very Cool!!