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Started on a short trip to the hardware store this morning. Speedster started right up, checked the vitals and everything was fine, including an apparent full gas tank. 8 miles later I was pulled off the shoulder of a country road as the car had just died. Walked through my basic diagnostics and noted no fuel in the see through fuel filter, popped the bonnet, removed the fuel tank filler cap, rocked the car back and forth and lo and behold, no swishing sound from the tank.

My always accomodating wife brought a five gallon can of 91 octane and within 90 seconds the car was running and everything was just peachy.

So where do I work back from to determine why my fuel gauge has decided to lie to me? It has been fine since I acquired the car, until now. No other issues. I suspected the gauge was pretty inaccurate, but it just registers full no matter what now.

Interestingly enough, with a fresh tank of gas after running every last drop out, the car is actually running a little better now, as it has been bogging when I back off after hard acceleration, no backfire, but isn't doing it now. Still need Michael B's aircooled guy to go through a tuneup on the dual Dells but it is running better. (engine is a 2110 stroker / dual Dells etc.)

Bob

   

       

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Started on a short trip to the hardware store this morning. Speedster started right up, checked the vitals and everything was fine, including an apparent full gas tank. 8 miles later I was pulled off the shoulder of a country road as the car had just died. Walked through my basic diagnostics and noted no fuel in the see through fuel filter, popped the bonnet, removed the fuel tank filler cap, rocked the car back and forth and lo and behold, no swishing sound from the tank.

My always accomodating wife brought a five gallon can of 91 octane and within 90 seconds the car was running and everything was just peachy.

So where do I work back from to determine why my fuel gauge has decided to lie to me? It has been fine since I acquired the car, until now. No other issues. I suspected the gauge was pretty inaccurate, but it just registers full no matter what now.

Interestingly enough, with a fresh tank of gas after running every last drop out, the car is actually running a little better now, as it has been bogging when I back off after hard acceleration, no backfire, but isn't doing it now. Still need Michael B's aircooled guy to go through a tuneup on the dual Dells but it is running better. (engine is a 2110 stroker / dual Dells etc.)

Michael:

Thanks, man. I called the shop from the side of the road this morning in case the problem was significant and I needed to get it on a flatbed and over to your place, but thankfully no big deal.

Ignore the message!

Hadn't thought of this before, but who would you recommend as a flatbed tow service here in the area in case I actually do have a problem some day?

Also I have a spare Uni-Syn Mod A for you if you need it as we discussed.
For a quick gas gauge check, (assuming it was previously working OK) I would first pull the sender out of the gas tank. Then reconnect all the electric leads - don't forget the ground wire. Turn on the ignition and move the sender mechanicaly through its full range of motion. Does the gauge smoothly respond from empty to full?

Sometimes those senders die down near the empty mark, I presume from all the constant bouncing up and down as the gas tank gets near empty. Anyway, its only a few minutes to check, and supplies vauable info about what is or is not working.
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