Skip to main content

MangoSmoothie.ca posted:

step 9: double check headroom.  i used a long plastic T-trim that i had kicking around from my bus build.  laid it on the roof and used a heat gun to make it the shape of the roof.  let cool, then taped  a 'tension' arm, and then checked headroom.  lots!

Step10: move to front.  how the frick am i going to make this attach.  started with cardboard at the same angle as the roof (see above).

traced inside to get curve of windshield (/windscreen)

Step 11: cut and transfer to roof.

i added another line (same) 1.5" closer to make sure i got everything right.  easier to trim again than to weld it all.

Top clips are on route (thanks Aron! @VS) 

i am going to start to focus on the front supports that will go down beside the windshield posts.

Is it just my browser or are the pictures not coming through?

step 12: trimmed along the lines i made

Step 13: i'm not 100% on this part.  i wanted to use the factory lip in the sheet metal because i think this will make it look OEM.  Reason i am not 100% is headroom in/out and line of sight (i'm pretty tall).  i'll fab it up, but may end up cutting it all off

^ looks good eh?

and a blurry overall shot.  i have respect for folks who are good with cameras...

Just kidding, I realize the logistics would be difficult at best. I'm not even close to your skill level with metal.

I'll be building a removable rear window frame(for a plexi window) with sail panels to the rear deck. Fiberglass, foam and plywood. Maybe even some molded-in steel parts for catches and such. Think Ferrari 308, Dino GTS or 914. It should be very strong but also very light. It will remove with a couple windshield header clips to the body/cockpit and two hooks that attach to the rear clamshell. I'll have a D-shaped rubber gasket on the bottom to protect the paint and seal the joint.

Then I'll make a rollup canvas top piece, and plexi side windows. The top will stow easily, as will the plexi side windows. Leaving the rear window piece in place for trips will be a necessary compromise. It will be difficult to fabricate but workable once done. It will also make trailering easier and keep the water out of the interior whilst doing so.

I'll start a new thread some time over the winter. I'm sorry if I hijacked yours, Paul.

the cutting and welding is definitely not the hard part on this project.  The hard part is the design. 

the jig is excellent.  pull the top up, roll the car out, cut, roll the car back, let (gently) the top back down. i've been bouncing back and forth between the front and rear.  i fabbed up the front bracing.  i opted to use my favorite 1/2" conduit and pipe bender.  i used this for my luggage rack and it works great.  it's essentially a 1/2" tube that hugs the windshield frame (3mm clearance).

no pics of that (yet). 

but the measurements that Oly gave me are quite a bit off where i am landing. 

What is tricky is there are no real reference points on this roof.  the only one i can count on it upper rear window frame in the middle. so i am doing a lot of double checking.

i've made 4 rounds of cuts.  each time, only about an inch.  it's getting close, but i'm still not happy. 

i switched to the rear to make the plate that sits on the car.  i have tenax fasteners, so when the toneau is off, there are little studs that stick up.  i made a paper template:

then put it back on, the rolled the car back and top down on the jig.

too much bulge. 

it's a balance on headroom though.  in it's current state, i have several inches of headroom to play with.

keen eyes will see the rear window is larger.  i really couldnt see anything out it at 8" high.  i am going to make it probably 10" high - at least 9". i think i am going to keep the taped on front blend / window thingy.

more OEM+ look than chopped

muuuuuuuch closer.  i am happy with where this is now going...

all mounting points are 1/2" from the body (pretty close)

i am definitely keeping the front window frame that i cutout and am using for the new front post blend.

at this state, i have ~2.5" of headroom - which is a LOT more than i have with my soft top up.

rear window is 9.5" high and i have a clear view out the rear mirror

i swear - the beetle roof is made for these cars.  the lines are a perfect compliment.

the sag in the front middle will be corrected when i fab/weld up the front bracing.

I like the latest roof line a whole lot better than the "before".  Much better flow and it just looks right - no where near as bulbous at the front.

When I installed my convertible top bows, I could fit two fingers between the top of my head and the top's middle bow - Maybe 1/14"?  Then I changed the seats and sit a bit lower and can fit a third finger in there for maybe 2" clearance.  Seems plenty of room for me.  At most I wear a Duncher Hat or a baseball cap so never a problem.

My mirror is a motorcycle version with a custom mount, but it is close in size to the original 356 and with the top up it matches the size of the rear window pretty well, bookended between my headrests - I have what I think is the smaller back window....About 1/3 the size of the big Cabriolet top window that we see on IMs and it's OK for visibility.  As we all know, there are a couple of massive blind spots back there so you tend to set your outside mirrors for the best advantage.

And I thought I was being pretty ambitious making that trapezoidal box for a heat plenum for my heater!  No way at this stage would I attempt a hardtop project.

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

my brain works in weird ways... right when i am falling asleep or just waking up, i start solving technical hurdles (half asleep).  all i seem to need to do is think about the problem right before bed. seems odd, but i wake up knowing what direction the next step is.  does this happen to anyone else?

anyway, courtesy of last night, i know what i need to do for the rear plate that sits on the car.

That's normal, IMHO, it is in the dream / sleep / near sleep state,  the place where you seem to nearly be daydreaming that you get revelation.    I get those and my wife especially  

That chop top nearly gave you the ability to have a small visor up front   

I also like the crease all along the edge, it makes the roof look really interesting. 

Your next project should be to install roll up windows on that thing it would solve your rain issues and make that hardtop a great cucoon.  Great work. 

Ray

i feel like i'm over the hurdle (on the design anyway).  Now it's just grunt work - which i am good at.

used the front portion of the beetle roof to fill in the rear blend.  the leftover metal after this project will only be a tiny bit.

measure, cut, fit, cut, screw

then i will get the bottom shape right, then the top (last minute window adjustments, maybe)

I'd like to get all this metal work away from my car. one mess-up or exploding cutoff disc....

IaM-Ray posted:

Can't wait to see it done, then maybe we can take a mold off of the unit to make it out of FGlass ... just kidding,  but surely the design is interesting enough to make one think about it.  @David Stroud IM Roadster D might be interested in using it and molding off a roadster version.   The gutters and seams make it less boring of a top. 

Ray....you may have no idea what it takes to pull off a lid like this. This stuff is not for the faint of heart to begin with and after that, you'd need mega build skills and unique problem solving thinking skills, not to mention the creative skills in the first place. Along with that, this thing will wind up looking cool as shyt too blending nicely into the existing car which puts it into another realm. Mango is a rare bird that has these skills. I had enough fun just making an "off the shelf shell " fit the Speedster. This is a full blown one off build and I have NO inclination to even do a copy. Thanks anyway.

Last edited by David Stroud IM Roadster D
Post Content
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×