A few days ago I was going to take my 356 to an autocross event like I normally do about twice a month when I discovered the engine wouldn't turn left and surprisingly it won't rotate right either. So I pulled the engine and disassembled it completely to find out the front main bearing in the crankshaft was locked up. My first thought was the engine isn't getting oil so I ordered a oil sump today. Does anyone else know why this has happened?
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The dowel pin hole elongating like that is typical when a main bearing siezes. How much end play did it have? Some engine builders say the minimum (.003") and high rpm's don't mix. And how long have you been autocrossing with only 2 1/2 quarts of oil? Running the car hard around corners with only the stock oil supply will uncover the pick up tube several times during a run, so it was only a matter of time 'till this happened. What do the rod bearings look like?
Before re-assembling, consider the Hoover oil passage, lifter and rocker arm/shaft mods for more oiling to the heads (removes more heat from the heads, valve springs will run cooler and the rockers will be better lubricated) and (I think) longer lifter bore life.
Yes I actually did purchase those as well. I'll look into it thanks for the input.
What did you purchase? I didn't suggest buying anything, but asked what the end-play was and what the rod bearings looked like...
Read the link and tell me what you think....
Once you've done the Hoover mods and have full time oiling you can also drill the pushrods to act as spray bars and help oil the rockers and valve springs even more. Apparently it's an old Corvair trick. I know one VW engine builder (Ray Vallero) drills the holes .020"
I purchased the lifters with the holes for the oil. I'm not sure actually but I will measure the holes. Thanks I'll check out the link.
I purchased the lifters with the holes for the oil. I'm not sure actually but I will measure the holes. Thanks I'll check out the link.
You're missing the point- I haven't asked what you bought, and the lube-a-lobe lifters have nothing to do with what I'm trying to draw your attention to. Click and read the link I provided; here it is again- http://bobhooversblog.blogspot...007/05/hvx-mods.html
It's about modifying the system so oil travels through the pushrods and goes to the heads 100% of the time the engine is running instead of 12% (as VW engineered it). The benefits are huge- with more oil in the rocker boxes, the heads will run noticeably cooler, and the valve springs will run cooler as well (springs will last longer). It will cure the rocker shaft/bushing scuffing that normally plagues VW engines on the 1 side and (I believe) will slow down the lifter bore wear that happens with faster ramp/higher lift cams.
Click on it and read!
Al
http://bobhooversblog.blogspot.../hvx-mods-again.html
More on Mr. Hoover's engine oil system modifications. I found this part said it all-
"...they are merely retro-fitting modern-day engineering to a design that dates from the 1930's, not because of a whim or fad but as a means of improving the reliability of the engine.
The key point here is that you have to finish in order to win. The main purpose of the mods is to enhance the engine's durability. It seems only common sense to include them in a VW converted for flight (or for play on the street; my words here!- Al), especially since they add no weight.
Interesting stuff for sure Al. Thanks for posting the link!
Happy to say the car is running now and should race next weekend!
So you got it back together- did you put a sump on it?
Did I read Bob Hoover's Blog correctly that this internal oiling modification only applies to Type1 engines?....that Type4's are already 'Hooverized' out of the box?
I've never looked at a type 4 case, but that's what I've read.
So you got it back together- did you put a sump on it?
Yep it sits pretty low now but it's all together. Thanks for all your help!
Cade, most of us use the 1.5 quart thin-line sump. Mine is the same height as the bottom of my chassis, so you don't lose any ground clearance.
Most people have a remote cooler and filter as well as a thin sump. Oil capacity of my system is 5 to 5.5 quarts, so the huge sump is kind of unnecessary, if that's what you have.
Cade, most of us use the 1.5 quart thin-line sump. Mine is the same height as the bottom of my chassis, so you don't lose any ground clearance.
Most people have a remote cooler and filter as well as a thin sump. Oil capacity of my system is 5 to 5.5 quarts, so the huge sump is kind of unnecessary, if that's what you have.
Yeah but when you are racing around turns the oil shifts to one side and to the other. The size isn't bad really but the car is lowered so it doesn't help much but it's no big deal I have about 3 inches of clearance.
How about a windage tray? I autocross as well
How about a windage tray? I autocross as well
It didn't come to mind I'll look into it. That's awesome I can never find people who actually race their car. How long have you been doing it?
Remember guys, the oil in the filter, cooler and lines is not at the pick up and therefore of no help in hard cornering; that's what the deep sump is for.
Danny, you might consider rotating your gage so that the critical (or optimum) reading is the needle pointing straight up at 12o'clock...then it's easy to always be aware of in your peripheral vision.
(I once briefly owned a 240Z set up specifically for Lime Rock and all the gages were so rotated in the dash)
Danny (and Cade), I've done some autocrossing as well (it was many, many years ago) and understand what you're saying; there's no time to look at gauges!
You have to know beforehand there is enough oil in the system for the job. For the occasional autocross in a more dedicated street car with an engine that revs to 5500 or 6,000 rpm's, a 1 1/2 quart sump will probably be sufficient. If you're a serious competitor and/or the engine turns more than 6,000rpm then a 3 1/2 qt. sump might be a good idea. Yeah, I know it makes oil changes a little more expensive and warm-up takes longer, but it's the cost of doing business. At this point it would also be a good idea to carve up the bell on the intake tube so oil drains quicker back into the sump so it is available to the pump. Maybe the perfect combo is a 1 1/2 qt. sump and an accumulator like an Accusump? You could even pressurize the engine for no wear at start-up...
I know the 356 and 912 guys love them, but windage trays have always been controversial with type 1 people (and I've played with these cars on and off since 1974). The complaint was that it hit the camshaft (and, iIrc, you couldn't bolt it down properly. I know, the 356/912 guys do it in a bolt together case), it impeded the oil draining back to the sump and you get almost the same result with the "new" windage pushrod tubes. I'll be the first to tell you I've listened to what "they" say on this and never tried to install one. Maybe another winter project to see exactly what the deal is...
Danny- I have heard of guys installing loud buzzers that go off when the oil light comes on; could drive you nuts at start-up, but the benefits I suppose outweigh the pia factor. I remember reading that Gene Berg said (and I'm paraphrasing here)- 'a 1 1/2 qt. sump gives an extra few seconds at best' (it's in his literature); for long, sweeping corners in roadracing, a bigger oil supply might be the way to go?
My apologies if this is a little disjointed; I'm just writing as it rolls in the old noggin. Hope this helps. Al
PS- I have also heard of people removing all the casting flash and smoothing out/polishing the inside of the case for quicker drain back, and I'm under the understanding it works, but then you're reducing the sqare footage of the inside of the case (whether it will make a difference or not I don't know) and now the oil and cooler have more heat to deal with. Again, just throwing out there what I know...
Gene told me with an Accusump I wouldn't need to add another sump.
When I'm on the track the only time I look at my gauges is when the car is going straight. While cornering I'm too busy to look at the dash.
