@DannyP posted:I drilled the wings of my wingnuts and use a spring between them, haven't lost one yet.
That's just cool.
Thanks. I actually stole the idea from LennyC. He had holes drilled in his wingnuts, but used a small ty-wrap between the nuts. I went with springs to make it re-usable when I had carbs. Not much need to take the air cleaners off anymore...
Looks amazing. Which motor did you go with?
Hello, checking in with 1500 miles on the odometer now. Love this thing. Been to about 6 car shows and cars and coffee meet ups. Still amazed how many people, even car people, have no idea what it is. At the last show 3 different people thought it was a Karmann Ghia. But, both those in the know and the others love it. Just like with my other car I’ve never seen one around here in the 13 years I’ve lived in this area. I guess I like being the odd one out.
It seems very happy to cruise at 80 at around 3200/3300 rpm.
I’ve had no issues (knock on wood). I found a local mechanic who has been working on air cooled VW’s for 50 years. He did my oil change and valve adjustment at 500 miles. He said I had a little leak from the rear main seal but nothing to worry about. He said that was common especially on the larger engines.
Super glad I added the radio. I downloaded a bunch of hits from 1957 and it really completes the time machine experience.
Kirk, didn’t see your post until now. It’s the 2332.
@wardog (Warren) posted:At the last show 3 different people thought it was a Karmann Ghia.
I was out prepping my Spyder to go for a drive on Friday and a fellow storage unit renter, who said he owned a Karman Ghia, asked me if my car was a Speedster. SMH
I can understand an average joe being ignorant, but a VW owner?
Love the color combo! I actually just placed my order for ivory with cardinal interior with VMC today.
@Robert M posted:Congratulations. Consider starting a new thread and posting all of the specifics so we can take the journey with you.
Thank you. Will do, just gotta deal with that 12-18 month lead time now. ☹️
Congrats Dragtek. I love the color combo. It really pops. I’m just loving this car. Over 2000 miles now on the odo. Really glad I got the 2332. This is my only manual trans car at the moment and it is so satisfying to row through the gears. Highly recommend the radio and heated seats options.
Although I bought the car for me and don’t really care what others think it is nice that the attention the car gets is always positive. I’ve had two more people ask if it was a Karmann Ghia 😀.
12-18 months…wow, guess I’m not surprised. It will be worth the wait.
^ thank you. After reading your experience I’m for sure glad I’m going with the 2332.
@Dragtek posted:Thank you. Will do, just gotta deal with that 12-18 month lead time now. ☹️
I wish I were only waiting 12-18 months…put an order in at Beck a few months back, 24 months 😬. Hopefully it’ll be sooner, but will understand if Carey and crew use every bit of lead time.
I have plenty to keep me busy, just moved into a new house and still have to build a shop along with the millions of odd projects that go with a new place.
I’m hoping to make a vacation trip up to Breman next summer, may even try to stop and meet Stan since I’ll be in his neighborhood visiting cousins, that is if he’s willing.
@SteveinAZ posted:I wish I were only waiting 12-18 months…put an order in at Beck a few months back, 24 months 😬. Hopefully it’ll be sooner, but will understand if Carey and crew use every bit of lead time.
I have plenty to keep me busy, just moved into a new house and still have to build a shop along with the millions of odd projects that go with a new place.
I’m hoping to make a vacation trip up to Breman next summer, may even try to stop and meet Stan since I’ll be in his neighborhood visiting cousins, that is if he’s willing.
I too am ok with the lead time. It gives me time to smooth things over with the wife 😂. I grew up building Hondas, but always loved the timelessness of the speedster. I actually sold a Lexus RCF, snd my Tacoma recently and told the wifey that I’d need to replace it with a convertible again. I had a few s2000’s in the past and thought about building another one, but knew I’d still wish I had gotten the Speedster.
S2000s are a LOT of fun to drive, but they don't have the look of a Speedster. That is timeless, indeed.
Beautiful speedster. Any more pics?
How is the 3.44 vs the 3.88 “freeway flyer “ ?
@beemerb0y posted:Beautiful speedster. Any more pics?
How is the 3.44 vs the 3.88 “freeway flyer “ ?
Thanks! I should have some more pictures to post next week.
I have about 2200 miles on her now. Haven’t been driving as much due to cold but got out yesterday for a bit. Had a couple more people say “beautiful car, what is it?” 😀
Never driven a 3.88 but I think for this engine the 3.44 is great.
@wardog (Warren) posted:Thanks! I should have some more pictures to post next week.
I have about 2200 miles on her now. Haven’t been driving as much due to cold but got out yesterday for a bit. Had a couple more people say “beautiful car, what is it?” 😀
Never driven a 3.88 but I think for this engine the 3.44 is great.
What speeds have you taken it up to?
when in 4th, what RPM is the tach reading when you are doing, say, 65mph?
@beemerb0y posted:What speeds have you taken it up to?
when in 4th, what RPM is the tach reading when you are doing, say, 65mph?
It’ll cruise all day long at 80 mph, about 3200/3300 rpm. The 2332 has good torque. I think 90 is as high as I’ve been and I have no need for any more than that in this car although it has quite a bit more to give. First and second are pretty low gears. Third has a good long pull and I generally shift to 4th at about 50. If I recall, 70 is about 3000. Engine seems happy from 2k to 5k.
I stopped by VMC the other day to check on my Speedster, it's almost finished.
Greg said he is only offering the 2332cc motor now. With the Kadron carbs on the motor it is making 145-150hp.
@Robert M posted:I stopped by VMC the other day to check on my Speedster, it's almost finished.
Greg said he is only offering the 2332cc motor now. With the Kadron carbs on the motor it is making 145-150hp.
yes they only offer the 2332cc motor now (about 145hp)
before January 2022, the base price for the Speedster was $43,900 with a 1915cc engine (about 110hp) and 4:12 with 0:82 4th gear.. Optional upgrade to the 2332cc engine was $2,500 and optional 3:44 trans for $1,000 (or a 3:88 trans for $2000)
now the base price is $48,900, but comes standard with the 2332cc engine and 3:44 ring and pinion trans (I don't think they have the option for a 3:88 anymore, unless you get the Subaru engine, but don't quote me on that)
@beemerb0y posted:How is the 3.44 vs the 3.88 “freeway flyer “ ?
The 3.88 will have a little better acceleration from a stand still, so it will be a wee bit 'zippier' around town. If they're geared the same for highway (3.88 with .89 4th vs 3.44/.93- they have almost identical final drive numbers) and the quicker acceleration in the lower gears isn't a concern (and to be honest, with the torque of a 2332 if probably doesn't matter) then the slightly closer 3rd-4th spacing with the .93 will be a little bit more fun to drive should you ever find yourself 'canyon carving'.
You've mentioned a 3.88 'freeway flier', which means different things to different people (I really dislike the term for exactly that reason!). If you're thinking a 3.88 r&p with a longer than stock .82 4th gear- don't do it. It creates a 4-5mph 'hole' where you'll feel like the engine is revving too high while the rpm's in 4th will be too low for the engine to properly cool itself under sustained full power (it may overheat) going up long hills. Even a bigger type 1 engine run like this will have a shorter life span. Al
Honestly, calling a transmission a 3.44 or a 3.88 is not really saying anything.
When discussing gearing, 1st through 4th is important, the final drive is important, and the tire size is important. Without all the variables being noted, just denoting the final drive is meaningless.
Most transmissions use a stock 1-2 and swap 3rd and 4th and the differential. Much cheaper to build this way, custom 3-4 costs about $800 in gears. A custom 1-2 is more like $1300. Do all 4 custom and you're north of $2500 with synchros, shift hubs, and bearings. Then add the ring and pinion, which can range from $300 to $1500 depending on source. If you really go crazy money-wise, get a LSD or a Torsen geared-type differential.
I'm building(whenever all the parts actually arrive!) a 3.44 final drive with close ratio gearing: 3.44 1st, 1.93 second, 1.30 3rd and 1.0 4th. Tire is 24.2 inches tall.
Note that my 4th is pretty darn close to the stock VW 0.89 4th with the VW 3.88 final drive. The transmission is expensive to build(all 4 gears are custom) but is probably as good as a 4 speed can be.
Before the "Way of the 5" folks chime in, I have a Spyder(mid-engine and swing-axle) so yeah, NO 5 speed! It is what it is, I'm not rebuilding the entire rear end just get another gear. There's no need, I don't use the car for interstate cruising. Just back road and mountain twisty work.
That's gonna be a bitchin' setup.
Thanks, Ed.
Danny is right, to fully discuss a transaxle/gear setup you do need to know all of the gearing. When writing my answer above, since nothing else was discussed, I didn't get into any other gearing choices because so many Speedster gearboxes use stock 1st through 4th gears. Unless you're building a trans for a special purpose (as Danny is) or a 5 speed, a r&p change (and maybe 4th gear if it will have particularly long legs) will accomplish what 90 or 95% of what people want.
And yes, I know Danny, your mind is closed to the Way of the 5; a shame, 'cause you really could have it all...
.
BTW, with the demise of the online gearing calculator a lot of us used to use, I've discovered this one. It doesn't have quite the same graphing the old one did, but can be more useful in other ways.
.
@ALB posted:The 3.88 will have a little better acceleration from a stand still, so it will be a wee bit 'zippier' around town. If they're geared the same for highway (3.88 with .89 4th vs 3.44/.93- they have almost identical final drive numbers) and the quicker acceleration in the lower gears isn't a concern (and to be honest, with the torque of a 2332 if probably doesn't matter) then the slightly closer 3rd-4th spacing with the .93 will be a little bit more fun to drive should you ever find yourself 'canyon carving'.
You've mentioned a 3.88 'freeway flier', which means different things to different people (I really dislike the term for exactly that reason!). If you're thinking a 3.88 r&p with a longer than stock .82 4th gear- don't do it. It creates a 4-5mph 'hole' where you'll feel like the engine is revving too high while the rpm's in 4th will be too low for the engine to properly cool itself under sustained full power (it may overheat) going up long hills. Even a bigger type 1 engine run like this will have a shorter life span. Al
The way Vintage Motorcars defines their trans options is as follow:
3.88 freeway flyer transmission 3:10 1:93 1:21 0:82
4:12 with 0:82 4th gear transmission
3.44 ring & pinion transmission
I don’t see any other info listed in their literature, but their website states “This upgrade provides you with a taller 1st and taller 2nd gear. With a final 3:88 ratio ring and pinion you achieve the “freeway flyer”, meaning you can cruise at higher speeds on the highway at lower RPMs. This transmission is perfect paired up with the 2332cc engine upgrade.”
@ALB posted:And yes, I know Danny, your mind is closed to the Way of the 5; a shame, 'cause you really could have it all...
My mind isn't closed, I don't want to completely re-engineer the entire rear end just for another gear that I won't use on the highway.
I've decided that cars are like Hawkeye's arrows: each one has it's own unique purpose. 
Thanks, Mitch, that calculator is neat.
Thanks Beemerboy, that info helps a lot. I'm assuming the 3.44 from Vintage has stock ratios then, which is what I have in the car right now.
BTW, that 3.88 with custom 1-2, and Bus 3-4 is not a cheap transmission to build. The Bus 3-4 ratios are available aftermarket, which makes this possible. There are only so many transmissions out there.
A 3.44 transmission gets spoken about here quite frequently, but is not really an option currently. Unless you are sitting on a 3.44 r&p, they haven’t been available for a long while now. None of the transmission builders has one in stock, at least that I could find. Weddle says they are having them made, but no expected date, and $1000 was the last price.
For this reason, I decided to go ahead with a 3.88. Like Danny, I’m waiting on Weddle to get the idler gears for a 3.10-1.93 main shaft back in stock. I have all the gears for a 3.10 1.93 1.32 .93 box, with a 3.88 r&p, except the idlers. This is going into a Spyder as well.
Now if I can get the foundry to cast the TF-1 cases they have been promising for over a year, and Greg to start on my IRS Spyder, I’ll have it made in the shade! 
I do have a pretty impressive pile of parts building up in my basement.
Exactly Rick. I happened to get one of the last 3.44s(if not THE last) from Anthony who posts here from time to time. I think it was almost two years ago.
I'm waiting for backordered stuff from Weddle: 1.93 2nd idler, plus bearings, a slider hub and slider, and some shims for the R&P to get back in stock. The mainshaft is in stock, but I really don't want to pay an extra shipping charge. I try really hard not to use Chinese bearings also. I have two transmissions to take apart, and I'm hoping those bearings are in good shape because we all know the old OE bearings are the best way.
I have a new Super-diff, side gears etc. plus all the other gears: 1st idler, 3-4 gears and idlers and SOME of the bearings. The Weddle racing gears and synchro hubs are splined so no more Tig welding of the 3-4 gears is needed.
I think I might need the slider hub 8AB-309HD, not the slider. This part is in stock, and needed with the hybrid main shaft. Or maybe not, I think stock might be OK because the gear ratios I'm using don't necessitate the swap.
I do have the slider on backorder though. September? WOW!
I'll have two or three to choose from, I've got one early 60s swing box and two late DSC(double side cover) IRS boxes.
@Sacto Mitch Great stuff..!!
This is a pict of my original tranny and my replacement tranny when they forgot to give me the 3.91 and instead I have a 4.12 R&P ...
Shows at 3000 rpm there is a 4-5mph difference. Not enough to bother but a good exercise to compare the trannies where you want them at crusing speed (5 speed)
Thanks for posting the GEAR Calculator / Ratio Tranny Calculator.
Ray
Attachments
Images (1)
I used the calculator for my Berg-5 shifting at 5000 rpm.
Attachments
Files (1)
Yeah, I use 6000. But 3000 is also good to show cruising speeds.
That was my point and I compared different r&P
Completely unrelated to my Speedster in the works, but got me thinking about the tranny in my buggy...and what Danny noted as the whole drive package, including tires, has to be considered.
I had to go look up the ratios as all I could recall was a 3.88 R&P. Ran it through the calculator with a 5,500 shift points, 3.08 1st=48mph, 2.20 2nd=67, 1.65 3rd=89, 1.28 4th=115. The only time I've seen 115 on the GPS I recall the tach at 5,800, most likely tire slipage as that was on a graded road. If you're wondering how a 1.28 4th gets you 115, plug in 35" tires.... Hindsight is 20/20, I wish I would have gone with a 5 speed, it was actually cheaper than the 4 speed, and would have given me a taller final.
That is an unusual gear set.
@SteveinAZ posted:Completely unrelated to my Speedster in the works, but got me thinking about the tranny in my buggy...and what Danny noted as the whole drive package, including tires, has to be considered.
I had to go look up the ratios as all I could recall was a 3.88 R&P. Ran it through the calculator with a 5,500 shift points, 3.08 1st=48mph, 2.20 2nd=67, 1.65 3rd=89, 1.28 4th=115. The only time I've seen 115 on the GPS I recall the tach at 5,800, most likely tire slipage as that was on a graded road. If you're wondering how a 1.28 4th gets you 115, plug in 35" tires.... Hindsight is 20/20, I wish I would have gone with a 5 speed, it was actually cheaper than the 4 speed, and would have given me a taller final.
Yes, tire diameter is a part of the gear ratio equation- and for an offroad buggy with 35" tires, those are tall gears!
What kind of power is behind them?