For the shipping price US to Asia and the core charge, instead get the best local guy to do it, and pay him a $500 bonus if it is still good after 6 months and 2000 miles.
That is a serious incentive to do a good job where you live.
What Lane said- Stay away from GEX!!! You'll be sold reconditioned junk instead of new parts, and after being talked into upping the displacement you may be lied to as to what's actually in the engine. I've even heard of engines from them having mis-matched heads with different compression ratios on each side. I know they're attractive because they seem reasonably priced, but you'll be throwing your money away and you won't be happy. I've heard of guys having problems in as little as 500 miles. They say they'll take it back and fix it if there's a problem, but when you get it back (the shipping will be at your expense, they'll promise to re-imburse you for it but it won't end up happening) it still won't be right, and after that they'll abandon you. Al
Read the Samba thread in the feedback forum on them; you'll be glad you saved your money- https://www.thesamba.com/vw/fo...79&highlight=gex
PS- and what MIB said above (it would be really nice if you guys would be thoughtful enough to divulge first names...)
You mentioned, Blackrice (do you have a first name?) that you found the VW 1st gear very "short", and you're right, it is. The stock gear ratios were designed to move a relatively underpowered car loaded with 4 people, so to be able to start under all conditions (think on a steep hill without excessively riding the clutch), 1st has to be what it is. A more powerful (or even the same) engine in a more aerodynamic, 200 pound lighter car (typical 356 replicar) with only 2 people and now the gearing is somewhat mismatched and why it feels unnecessarily "short".
There are ways to change the situation, but unfortunately all except 1 are relatively expensive and consist of transaxle removal and disassembly. Putting taller tires on the back is probably the cheapest, but not necessarily the best solution, as it raises the rear of the car up and taller tires have more sidewall flex (and therefore don't handle as well). A taller ring and pinion will cost 200-$400 plus the trans removal, re-install and rebuild (the trans has to be totally taken apart), will affect 1st through 4th, and with a smaller engine installed, 4th may need to be shortened a little (more expense) or overheating at highway speeds may result. The last option is changing 1st gear, which means an aftermarket mainshaft.
You may not be able to tell, but the mainshaft is 1 piece, which means you can't just change 1st or 2nd gear like you can 3rd or 4th.The mainshaft plus matching 1st and 2nd gears will cost 1,000-$1100, and depending on ratios chosen may mean changing 3rd and possibly 4th ($300 each?) to maintain proper gear spacing.
The first step is to figure out what you have. There is a code on the side of the transaxle case which will tell you (after looking it up on the charts on the Samba) what it originally came with, although if it's been rebuilt before, anything could be inside. You can count the # of tire revolutions in 2nd gear (I believe someone just posted how to do this) to figure out which r&p the trans has (4.375, 4.12 or 3.88).
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So, the allure of an american built VW turnkey engine was that you'd have an engine built (and tested) by VW guys, in a VW shop, with tons of experience. However the reality looks more uncertain. Thanks for the links.
I've booked time starting next Monday to drop my current engine and see what's going on, see if needs rebuild or just some TLC.
Whatever mechanic did yesterday - rides better. Took it for a 3hr spin today - first 2hr perfect, last hour stalling happened again. Basically will be idle in traffic (in first or neutral) and engine stalls - have to keep the emergency brake on, clutch in and gas on to keep it from dying - tough on a hill since brake is weak.
Whatever it is - it's currently not reliable. 
Lots of cursing.
If you got a few hours good driving, then poor performance, then you shouldn't need to drop the engine out to sort that - that sounds like a tuning issue. If there is a manifold leak or an exhaust leak, or an overheat problem, these can all be diagnosed in car and fixed in car. Is it the factory distributor or a Chinese 009 with Chinese points or even worse, a Chinese electronic ignition module?
But definitely no need to drop the motor.
M.I.B posted:If you got a few hours good driving, then poor performance, then you shouldn't need to drop the engine out to sort that - that sounds like a tuning issue. If there is a manifold leak or an exhaust leak, or an overheat problem, these can all be diagnosed in car and fixed in car. Is it the factory distributor or a Chinese 009 with Chinese points or even worse, a Chinese electronic ignition module?
But definitely no need to drop the motor.
Well it's been in the shop like 6x in the past 30 days. No joke. Lately it's just that it stalls. I had a tune up yesterday and was running beautiful in the shop, turning over first time, idling perfect. Today it did GREAT for first few hours - then back to it's old tricks.
When I got the car it was in pretty shitty shape, I had it cleaned up (a little) - I was about to go for some expensive items (steering wheel, gauges, new rims, windshield) and then thought - let's get the engine running well first.. Right?
I don't know that much about engines, my gut says that if the last dude had it for 12yr and let it fall apart on outside, probably did so with engine as well. (plus it's been sitting for 2yr). My concept was to take out the engine, see what was going on and replace as much as he can. I mean - new parts on a completely rebuilt engine should perform better? That's my logic.. Dunno.
Otherwise I'm trapped in this cycle of 'something fails' - take it in 'fix something fails' - drive 'something fails'.... Not fun (and not good for blood pressure) to break down in 100 degree heat on side of road and have to wait 3hr for shop to come get car while a few thousand locals oogle me and honk as they ride past and yell 'nice car, and 'hey joe' and laugh at my predicament - etc)
just want it to be reliable. so i can.. you know.. drive it few hours a day.
i agree, sounds like something happens when it heats up - and fails. Yes it also just had the points replaced by other garage - sure they used chinese or whatever was cheaper / available..
I had those symptoms once I hsd a failing fuel pump
If you swap out the pump, make sure the replacement pump comes with a rod. There are two types of mech pump for the "later" bug motor, and they have different length rods.
They only differ in length by 5mm or so. Not huge, but noticable.
One is too short and in effect won't pump, and if the long rod is used when a short rod is needed, it will destroy the pump lever much in the pump base as soon as you turn the key.
You may have already touched on this, but are you sure the fuel tank, lines, and pump are clean? If the car had been sitting for a while it could be full of rust and other gunk. It can run fine for a while until a gunk hunk clogs something up.