Need a reputable turn key engine builder

Since my 1600 can barely get out of it's own way, I decided to check the compression. I have 110,110,110, 90. I will be selling this car next year (hopefully), it will need a new motor. I'm thinking a 1915 but I cannot find a decent air-cooled VW mechanic in my area to rebuild.

Anyone know of a decent builder? The are lots on ebay but ...
I don't want to sink a lot of money into a motor since I'm selling it and won't get my money out of it.

Bob,
Just need a 1600 rebuilt longblock? I know a local builder that ships all over the US ( been building for 30 years ) and can get you a nice rebuilt for the resale or bigger if you decide to keep.
He built my 1641 ( no issues ) and is now building my 2110.
Let me know if you want more info - He is a single guy company building out of his home shop - not to far away from you ( northern VA ). Cheaper if he can use your engine to rebuild with. Real good guy.
Dale

Bob -

If you're contemplating selling the car, I'm not sure how much of a return you would get on your investment into a bigger motor. I would recommend a simple rebuild of the 1600 (for a car that runs well) and let the new owner decide if he/she wants to put the difference in price towards a bigger motor.

Those compression numbers seem pretty darn good actually.

Unless its leaking oil bad or low oil pressure - I'd do new rings and a good valve job. And paint up the tins while its apart. Spliting the cased is where the $ add up. With gas at $4/gal some may prefer the smaller engine in a light weight car. For couple hundred more you could do new 87mm (or 88mm) pistons and sleeves (if already dual port and dual carbs - this sould be increase in HP at not much $).

What kind of gas mileage do the smaller engined cars get? Also how much performance do you lose in say 0-60?

"What kind of gas mileage do the smaller engined cars get?"

28-30 mpg

What mileage does a 2110 get?

26-30 mpg (depends on how much you put your foot into it)

Also how much performance do you lose in say 0-60?

1600cc versus a 2110: About 4-5 car lengths.

60-75 mph?: 2 car lengths

75-85 mph and higher? Many, many car lengths.

"Those compression numbers seem pretty darn good actually."

I thought 140-150 was good? Anyone?

Gordon, my car has a 1600 with 40 Webbers,electronic ign., hyd. lifters, 1.25 ratio rockers and a 4.12 stock trans. I do put my foot into it but even when driving easy and a lot of 65 MPH freeway cruising I only get 21-22 MPG. The motor idles perfectly, no smoke,tires at 35 PSI.Any ideas why so low mileage? I would expect with a light car and smooth lines like a speedy to get better.

Dual 40 Webers on a 1600 are too big and will consume fuel and the 4:12 allows for high RPM's in fouth gear. ~Alan

120 psi is key. But 110 is not bad for a 1600. Your may need a valve job, rings. You can test the rings theory easily enough. Squirt a little motor oil in the plug hole and do each one at a time. If your compression goes up than you probably have a ring job issue.

When you tested you DID remove all 4 plugs for the test, right?

I had Solexs (40mm?) on my car when I bought it. It didn't get the mileage I thought a little 1600cc would get, though I never really paid much attention, still don't. I will say this though, when I put the 34 Webers on it and got them dialed in I don't go to the pumps as often as I used to. And there isn't a noticable difference in the acceleration either.

If you'd like to take the engine project to the next level, give me a ring and we'll discuss possibilities.


That said, a compression check is a fairly poor method of actually determining an engine's integrity. I prefer a leak down test and put much more stock in it's ability to pinpoint engine issues.

A 16900cc engine may have close to the same compression test numbers that you state and have nothing wrong with it more than needing a valve adjustment.

Will, while your car doesn't weigh much, it is not really all the sleak.

It looks sleak, but in reality your coefficient of drag (how sleak it is) is higher then a Ford Taurus.

Also, you need to know that as speed increases drag increases exponentially. So if your going 55mph and drag equals 1 unit, then at 60 drag equals 1.2 units, at 65 your drag doesn't equal 1.4. It is actually higher.

The higher the drag coefficient the more significant the results.

Here is something not so interesting to most, but a Subaru Forester with a 2.5 Liter engine is actually using less energy to maintain 70mph then a Porsche Replica. At 65 the porsche replica is a little less, and at 60 a lot less. It is that significant. These results were obtained through tests I performed on the two cars and using OBDII monitoring equipment.

Jack, I'd love you have you take this motor to a new level but, as stated earlier, I don't want to put much $$ into this since I will be selling it. I've had it to 2 differenct so-called VW mechanics and they did very little (tighten head bolts, plugs, points, etc.). Car stills continue to run very rough until it is warmed up. Then, it runs hot (up to 220 degrees). I'd like to check the timing but it is the distributor that has 2 vacuum advance connections and I don't know how to check the timing with this type.

Will:

Al's right, you're way over-carbureted, but take heart, LOTS of folks on here are over-carbureted!!

Also, if you have stock 1600 heads and you're not running bigger-than-stock valves in them, I doubt that those ratio-rockers are doing anything for you.

IMHO, if you went with a pair of 32-34mm Kadrons (no bigger than 36mm) and get rid of the stock exhaust for a decent header system you should be able to see close to or over 30mpg with that engine, plus a tad more power (but it's still a stock block, so don't expect miracles).

Lots of people with Speedies and more-or-less stock 1600's are seeing 28-30 on highways.....I have a nicely-built 2,110 with 40mm Dells and I'm getting 26-28.

gn

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