Need an E-brake kit Option(s)

Take a look at the Jamar Hydraulic Brake Park Lock $37. 

 

http://www.pacificcustoms.com/jamar-parklock.html

 

Empi has one too.  I know some states don't allow them as an emergency brake but sure is better than a brick for park lock brake (which might be good for back up if you go EMPI). Looks like Empi comes with some fittings and is cheaper.

Any amount of leak down and these just release. This is not the brake for you if you live in a place like San Francisco!

 

Does your car already have the ebrake handle? If not I would buy one and then replace your rear calipers with ebrake calipers. Pricey but I think an ebrake is a necessity.

 

 

 

 

No e-brake handle, just a open whole into the tunnel with the heater levers on each side. Current rear calipers do not have any e-brake linkage or hook ups. 

Do you still have the mounting "ears" bracket and 2 tubes through the tunnel (see photo)? If so you can buy the handle ($50), cables ($45), new calipers with .E-brake ($300).  or go with the hydraulic lock.  Reason it isn't called an emergency brake is because if there is a fluid leak - it won't work.

 

This is what I have...

You are good to go then. Just get an e-brake handle (new or used) and the hardware that goes with. There's a solid steel bar (bushing?) that goes through the handle and the horizontal hole in the bracket. It has 2 c-clips on it to keep it steady. Then you need the cables and the adjuster nuts.

 

As has already been said, the big ticket item will be the e-brake compatible calipers.

Scott - See you are in Franconia, VA - I lived in Springfield but now in FL.  Is this for the annual safety inspection, feeling of well being or perceived need.  In VA (FL is 30!) you can get antique plates for a car (registered as VW chassis year) over 25 years.  Plate is $50 and good forever with NO annual inspection (or emissions) ever required. There are some restrictions - like it can't be only car.  Personally, for $40 I'd add the inline hydraulic lock while researching new calipers or combo calipers/disc replacement. True, if your brake system leaks, it isn't very effective - but since you aren't driving a klunker you should know the pedal is soft and system needs attention.  I bet the Buggy Man in Lorton VA has the handle parts you need - give John a call and ask.  With handle it would look like a brake there and the hydraulic system would be a theft deterrent. 

Yep, live in Franconia. No, it's not for the inspection. Already have antique plates. I found that advise on this forum before I purchased. 

 

I purchased the car with a few things that need correcting, and the parking brake is just one of them I was thinking of doing. The brakes and lines were redone in 2012, from receipts I have, and not much mileage since then. I have zero leaks with the brakes. But ask me about oil, and thats for a different thread.

 

Didn't know I had to drop over $400 to get it corrected—eye-opener, so I may take your advice for the hydraulic lock for now. Just going to see how to install it. Anyone on the forum using one?

 

I have been looking for sometime for good VW shops around NVA and didn't know about the Buggy Man. Got hosed on a local shop for my front ball joints and alignment, so I'll have to look him up.

 

I plan on posting a few other topics as I start correcting things.

 

Thanks again.

 

Scott

I live in Stafford just south of you and work in Arlington.

I have seen we have a few new posters that are in the NV area so I guess we need to get everyone together. I have a project speedster I am still restoring and also a finished MG TD replica.

Let me know if you need any help.

I know a good engine guy down here and most parts are available ( VW ) at the Buggyman down the road - not sure what kind of repair man he is but has been doing it for a long time.

 

Scott wrote: "Didn't know I had to drop over $400 to get it corrected—eye-opener, so I may take your advice for the hydraulic lock for now. Just going to see how to install it. Anyone on the forum using one?"

 

Well, not on my current car (we need a mechanical e-brake here in Massachusetts these days) but I ran an hydraulic e-brake on a couple of dune buggies back in the days.

 

It is plumbed into the rear brake line by running a line from the rear circuit of the master cylinder to the brake lock (usually up on or near the dash) and then another line from the brake lock to the brake line going to the rear.  Often people just use an in-line brake line coupler for that connection, or a 6-10 pound residual valve as a coupler.  Once installed, if it's in the dash you'll probably need to pressure bleed it to get its bubbles out.

 

If you install the hydraulic button on the floor (just ahead of the seat glides near the tunnel....hint, hint) you can get away with bleeding it by pumping the pedal and won't need a pressure bleeder.

 

Either way, you should come out of it with a decent, hydraulic e-brake for under $50 bucks.

Scott - Schu will probably also vouch for Monk V.I. Volks repair between I-95 and RT1/Ft Belvoir - address is Lorton though.  Buggy Man sells more parts than doing repairs.  Both have tables at the "local" Bug Outs.

Thank you for the "how to" Gordon. I planned on replacing the old brake fluid anyway (looks pretty dark) along with upgrading to braided lines so I'll probably do everything at once. I may ask more questions with pics once I get started. Probably going to be a fall/winter project now. Just want to drive it.

Wolf, thank you for the referral and everyone else chiming in. I don't think I would have bought a speedster if this site didn't exist.

 

I'm having carb troubles too so I'm going to swing by this weekend and check Monk V.I. Volks out!

I believe Wilwood and others sell a separate mechanical disc brake caliper to use with your e brake handle and cables. You have to get a new caliper bracket that allows both calipers to be mounted but this is another option.

Here's a link: http://www.wilwood.com/Caliper...ame=MC4%20Mechanical

Great option assuming this would fit my current disk. Thanks for the link Danny.

So looking at my brake lines/e-brake for my fall/winter project I took a few shots (finally) of the dual master. 

 

Do you guys see anything out of the ordinary or errors in what was done?

 

Any advice how how to relocate the reservoir to the trunk?

I'm going to replace the fluid, as the fluid looks dark (no indication when last changed), upgrade to braided lines system and don't like the access/location of the reservoir. 

Picture is of a sand rail but this is how it was hooked up originally in the donor bug.