Hi everyone I love this site,so much info. I've been building a cmc speedster for about 6 months now. Subby powered,it's drivable now just small details. I'm in need to a old soft top any condition so I can take it apart and make a custom on. Dont want to buy a new one just to destroy it. Any help would be great,willing to pay within reason.
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Crap I tossed a used black one away a few weeks ago I do have a new tan vinyl one available. That's some snazzy plaid there I like it !
Giday, Dustin. Sorry but I don't have an old top to let go of, but It's nice to hear of another Soob conversion by a home builder. Could you give us just a bit of an overview of your conversion including how you did the cooling system ? Thanks...
I bought a wrecked forester took motor,wiring and ecu. Wired it myself,have a total of $700 invested in the swap half was the adapter. Haven't yet had an issue with cooling and radiator is in rear withe stock radiator and hoses (really same distance away from motor as it was in the forester).I have dual mishimoto aluminum fan shroud,and a fan on the grill to pull air out. When I put in a/c I plan on putting in a 2 core forester xt radiator and possibly brake ducting if necessary. I've never built a kit car before and I'm sure some of the things I've done aren't up to 356 code, so take it easy on me.lost my deck lid latch so had to use leather straps. Has there been many issues with the radiator in the rear?I'm in az so heat is always an issue,so far so good.hottest I've driven it was in the 90's.
Hi Dustin,
The efficiency of the stock Subi rad depends on a few factors: the placement of the rad is important, as well as the amount of cool air available, rad fans, shrouds, decent water pump, etc. There are no hard and fast rules, since most of our replicas are almost one-off iterations, but some generalities apply:
the higher the HP, as in turbo engines, the more trouble you have in cooling. 200 HP or less can usually be handled with stock Subi donor car components, but when you move the rad to a less efficient location for airflow, stock rad may be inefficient, and you may need a larger core with effective fans, shroud and ducting;
the higher the coolant speed through the cooling system, the greater the amount of potential heat loss, meaning coolant turbulence is what you want, as it equals greater efficiency in heat rejection;
electric, thermostat-controlled puller fans with effective shrouding may be your best bet for your rad, but placement can help by having naturally high pressure in front of the rad with low pressure behind. The faster the air moves through the rad, the more hot air can be pulled out. Of course, every fan and heat exchanger will be more efficient in a traditional placement, right in front of the car at a 90 degree angle to incoming air. Unfortunately, that's not easily done in our replicas;
it's a system, and all parts play a significant role. Eliminating overheating is not for the faint-hearted, and can take an inordinate amount of time to fix, since there are lots of moving parts. Data logging helps, as well as swapping out one piece of the cooling system at a time. As I frequently mention, we are the engineers, irrespective of our education, background, wrenching abilities, etc. There are lots of "experts" who are ineffective at diagnosing the true fault when one of our water-cooled engines overheats.
From my experience, getting enough airflow to and through the rad is the single most important piece of the cooling puzzle. Best of luck in your journey, and please keep the group informed on your progress.
I appreciate all the info trial and error. Are you saying people are having luck with removing the t-stat? I broke the ice so I'll definitely keep in touch with the progress. I love the car, but it's not what I initially wanted.that was a 550,and hopefully when I'm done I can find a good 550 project that someone wants to trade for a good running 356.how do you search a specific topic on this site?
Unless the t-stat is constricting the flow of coolant, you may want to leave it where it is (as long as it's opening completely). Easy to check in boiling water. Some Subi owners do have better luck removing the stock t-stat, and placing a high-flow, in line t-stat in the upper rad hose. It's one of the many variables in the cooling system that need to be tested and logged by itself.
While the remote stat allows more water to flow through the entire water system, due to a larger bore than the standard "hat" style stat, the main advantage is to allow more water to flow through the block prior to the engine gaining operating temp. The theory is that, with more water circulating with the stat closed, there is less likelihood of steam pockets occurring in the block before the stat opens. In older American iron, guys will turn the water pump faster by changing the pulley ratio for the water pump, but they still can face a flow restriction in the stat.
To check on the efficiency of your stat, log coolant temp curves with standard stat in place. Then remove the t-stat, test coolant temps again, then compare to coolant temps with stock stat. Theoretically, the stock t-stat should have little bearing on overheating. All it does is quicken the time it takes to bring the engine up to operating temp. There are times when cavitation may occur at the outlet of stat housing. This can be eliminated by a remote stat mentioned above. Killer B Motors even sells a modified water pump outlet housing that is supposed to eliminate pump cavitation at the outlet, since it softens the shape of the housing for more efficient water flow.
At the top left of the home page, you will see three short horizontal white lines. Left click on those to expose your profile, as well as the SEARCH button. Good hunting!
Top right hand side of the page two boxes left of your name and avatar. It looks like a magnifying glass. Click on that and search keywords. You can also do an advanced search as well with more limiters.
Thank you now I can search ��
as far as the t-Stat goes I'm doing fine no need to change anything yet. Fans cycle fine,never over 200 and it has a 190 t-Stat. I may put in a 180 or less, will probably have to make some changes if and when I do a/c.
Do the vintage speedster tops fit a cmc well? Nobody has a top there thinking about upgrading,leaks, faded,tore? I could help ease the blow with a little cash to buy your new one. I'm also interested in some cruising windows. How do you guys like em,and if anyone doesn't I'd be interested in buying them. Last question what is everyone running for a signal switch,I'm using my hands. My colum is a 70 bug.
Vintage top fits good on the CMC but do get the VS steel bow s as the CMC are different and trying to re-bend the CMC's is nearly impossible to get the radius ( I've tried)
VW signal switch is about $70 if you want to save some bucks you can go with an aftermarket one but it won't be self cancelling
Dustin:
Years ago, when I wanted to install my CMC top (after riding in 7-hour downpours in BOTH directions going to the Carlisle, PA meet) I found that a mouse had decided to chew a hole in it, so I bought a Stay Fast top from Vintage instead. I think I still have that original CMC top in a bin in the shop attic (pack rats never throw anything away, right?) IIRC, it's a "High Bow" top, which is about 2" taller than a "Low Bow" version.
If Instill have it, it's yours, but we're 30 minutes away from the extended family arriving so I'll check later today and get back to you.
Gordon
That would be awsome gordon,I'm in no hurry. Ler me know and I can send you some money by PayPal for shipping and whatever you want for it. Pack rat saves the day again.
I bought the aftermarket one,looks terrible. I do have vs bows, just want to make a custom top (zebra) jk.
Be sure you add zipper to go around rear window sides and top so you can fold it down for better air flow. In AZ you need top more to keep hot sun off you than protection from rain.
Yes that's a great idea thanks
DUSTIN! Look at your sweet ride!
So glad you posted your fun! I foresee a high-speed, four-Speedster parade sometime soon -- you, me, @PaulEllis and Doug Kingston.
I'm really looking forward to seeing that plaid up close, too... Your wife's a wife-and-a-half!
Thank you, I'm looking forward to it. I need to get a built trans before any major drives, it's making little noise. Only been making it to close car shows. I'm looking to a speedster parade give arizonians something to look at other than tesla's. Your right about the wife the whole package.let me know when you Phoenician's are going out.
Yeah, and on the transaxle...... Dave Stroud mentioned that he went with a 3:44 Ring and Pinion and for just about any Suby that's a terrific choice. The torque band starts so low and is so wide that a 3:44 suits it. My wife's Outback seems to love working between 1,100 and 2,200 rpm, just about anywhere - it has a continuously variable transmission and whatever you're doing, it's sitting below 2K rpm.
My aircooled 2,110 has a wide torque band, too, but I try to keep it around 2,800-3,200 just to keep the cooling air volume up where the engine runs cool. You don't need that.
Dustin, you are one lucky dude. I just went out to the shop attic and found that old, black, CMC top. After moving three times in the past 15 years, I was amazed I still had it, but it was right where I remembered it should be. Packrats Rule!
It has never been installed but, as I mentioned, has a mouse hole in it. I just brought it in and parked it on top of my furnace to thaw out and then I'll open it up and get a picture. I'll also find way to box it up and let you know either USPS or UPS charges to the land of the Kokopelli ( wish I was there, too!.... 
Just hefting it feels like 3-4 pounds or so and it should fit an Amazon box (we seem to have a few of those kicking around this week).
PM me with your mailing address and we'll go from there.
Gordon
If you change the thermostat, be sure to use a Subaru factory one. The aftermarket ones are smaller and flimsier and don't work right. Also, assume you have your heater hose looped? Don't block it off whatever you do.
If your cooling system works in AZ you must be doing something right. Hope you'll share details here.
Great build.
LOL on your Tesla comment! This town is filthy with Teslas, isn't it?
And, in a metro with so many McLarens, Ferraris, Lambos, and 911s, it takes a special car to turn heads in this city -- and everyone here knows which car!
Will keep you updated on all AZ adventures, Dustin!
Gordon Nichols posted:Yeah, and on the transaxle...... Dave Stroud mentioned that he went with a 3:44 Ring and Pinion and for just about any Suby that's a terrific choice. The torque band starts so low and is so wide that a 3:44 suits it. My wife's Outback seems to love working between 1,100 and 2,200 rpm, just about anywhere - it has a continuously variable transmission and whatever you're doing, it's sitting below 2K rpm.
My aircooled 2,110 has a wide torque band, too, but I try to keep it around 2,800-3,200 just to keep the cooling air volume up where the engine runs cool. You don't need that.
Dustin, you are one lucky dude. I just went out to the shop attic and found that old, black, CMC top. After moving three times in the past 15 years, I was amazed I still had it, but it was right where I remembered it should be. Packrats Rule!
It has never been installed but, as I mentioned, has a mouse hole in it. I just brought it in and parked it on top of my furnace to thaw out and then I'll open it up and get a picture. I'll also find way to box it up and let you know either USPS or UPS charges to the land of the Kokopelli ( wish I was there, too!....  
PM me with your mailing address and we'll go from there.
Gordon
Thanks for all the good info,3.44 it is. Any recommendations on tstat degrees? I do have my heater looped till I get around to hooking up a/c. I have no top yet so figured what's the use of a heater. By the time I get around to doing a/c & heat will be to warm for heat. Trans is my next task at hand. The 4.11 are fun on the sreet just not freeway friendly.
Cory McCloskey posted:LOL on your Tesla comment! This town is filthy with Teslas, isn't it?
And, in a metro with so many McLarens, Ferraris, Lambos, and 911s, it takes a special car to turn heads in this city -- and everyone here knows which car!
Will keep you updated on all AZ adventures, Dustin!
I love getting gas and getting as much attention as any 100 sports car. I also own a 60's minl cooper right hand drive with a honda motor I built that rivals the 356 for attention.
Having owned an original 356A or "real A " when I was young, I was not really prepared , and I had forgotten how much attention the 356 shape gets in a rather dull landscape of vehicles... even exotics.
You have to enjoy the visceral experience though... even a beautiful women gets tired of getting attention at times 
dustin posted:Thanks for all the good info,3.44 it is. Any recommendations on tstat degrees? I do have my heater looped till I get around to hooking up a/c. I have no top yet so figured what's the use of a heater. By the time I get around to doing a/c & heat will be to warm for heat. Trans is my next task at hand. The 4.11 are fun on the sreet just not freeway friendly.
Our applications are totally different and I find it interesting. Not much to compare really but my stat is verified 176 F and the temp gauge in the coolant manifold under the intake system says everything seems to stay just under 180 in normal driving conditions at any ambient temp if the car is moving forward. I have a 190 F temp switch mounted just aft of the rad exit and it only turns the rad fan on it I get stuck in traffic on a hot day.
I do have a 24 sq. inch horizontal scoop just behind the front bumper feeding air up into the rad which I have reduced in size from 36 sq. inches. I've experimented with blocking off some or all of the scoop in cooler temps and have concluded that in ambient temps lower than 60 F, the scoop is not needed. Those long aluminum tubes running the coolant fore and aft radiate heat too.
I am running a 2-row Honda Civic radiator upright behind a tall grill (my car is a faux MG TD). The rad is made for a 1.6 or 1.8 liter engine but cools the stock 2.2 Soob fine using the stock 174F thermostat. I've got a Jegs cube heater mounted on the tunnel in front of the shifter and a switch that shunts the coolant away from it (completing the loop) for when we don't want 200F antifreeze circulating near our legs. My temp gauge is T'd into that and seldom shows much more than 190F
Trans is a regular beefed-up late-model IRS with a 3.44 R&P. With the .93 4th gear we get 70 mph at 3000 rpm and a nice gear spacing. If you ran a .89 4th gear you'd have 75 mph at 3000 rpm which is damn close to what the stock Soobie had, and the 3-4 spacing still won't trouble you.
The 3.44 is really the way unless you're building a track car or hillclimb contender. If then, you probably want a 3.88 with an LSD of some sort. Quaifes don't play well with the 3.44.
Ed...sometime at Carlisle this year we should drive each other's cars for a short rip. I think that would be a hoot. ( under supervision of course )...
Under ADULT supervision. I'll volunteer as I'm sure I can behave like a responsible adult at least for a short while.
Yeah, Dave. I think it's about time. Lane, you can be the judge if we can use your car as the "control."
I agree, Ed. So...WE take Lane's car out and take turns beating it as hard as we can and make notes. Then WE take mine out with you driving it nicely and then we go back and I take yours for a spin with you navigating. Later that night in the Hospitality room we can tie Lane down to a chair and expound upon our findings. 
I'm in, except for the "beating it as hard as we can" part - oh, and the " tie Lane down to a chair" part. I don't know either of you well enough for that last bit.
OK then, how 'bout "Strap Lane into the passenger seat's 5-point harness, really tight, and see what happens next?"
They have that Autocross track at Carlisle.
I can envision a pretty good video coming out of that...
Too bad you left New England before the good snow - driving fun is just starting up here!
Now THAT sounds like fun!
Yeah, we lucked out on the weather up there.
Then it's settled: We tie Lane to a chair, drop him in the hotel pool, and take his car auto-crossing.
Just make sure that the chair floats and has a cupholder for my drink, m-kay? 
