this is my first R&R of motor. the clutch disc has a "flat"face and the other side has a "raised"cone. does this raised cone go to the front of car or to the rear.thanx
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this is my first R&R of motor. the clutch disc has a "flat"face and the other side has a "raised"cone. does this raised cone go to the front of car or to the rear.thanx
217lbs...to be exact doesn't hurt to add a bit of blue loc-tite too.
The raised (splined) cone points toward the Transmission and away from the Motor. It should only fit in there one way.
You need to use a tool(that simulates dimensionally the trans input shaft) to align it to the Gland nut bearing. I use a transmission input shaft left over from an old trans.
If you're using the same clutch cover, tighten the bolts gradually until the whole cover is seated making sure it is flat in the step of the flywheel.
If you're using a new clutch cover,and it the kind that uses Springs (rather than a diaphram) check to see if it has clips holding tension off the arms. After installing, make sure the clips are removed. (they'll come loose as you tighten the cover)
If it's a diaphram type clutch cover, it won't have the clips.
If you haven't already, and you're already there, check the flywheel seal and replace as necessary.
And... if you take the flywheel off check the back of the case (especially behind cylinder 3 and especially if you have cylinders to accomodate larger than stock bore) for cracks. Cracks = Oil Leaks and time for new Engine Case.
And..
make sure you have the tools and Leverage to remove and install the Flywheel Gland nut that gets torqued to somewheres near 300 ft lbs.
Greg
You need to use a tool(that simulates dimensionally the trans input shaft) to align it to the Gland nut bearing. I use a transmission input shaft left over from an old trans.
If you're using the same clutch cover, tighten the bolts gradually until the whole cover is seated making sure it is flat in the step of the flywheel.
If you're using a new clutch cover,and it the kind that uses Springs (rather than a diaphram) check to see if it has clips holding tension off the arms. After installing, make sure the clips are removed. (they'll come loose as you tighten the cover)
If it's a diaphram type clutch cover, it won't have the clips.
If you haven't already, and you're already there, check the flywheel seal and replace as necessary.
And... if you take the flywheel off check the back of the case (especially behind cylinder 3 and especially if you have cylinders to accomodate larger than stock bore) for cracks. Cracks = Oil Leaks and time for new Engine Case.
And..
make sure you have the tools and Leverage to remove and install the Flywheel Gland nut that gets torqued to somewheres near 300 ft lbs.
Greg
Hey Alan,
Why?
While it doesn't hurt to add some loctite, have you ever seen a nut vibrate loose that's been torqued to 217 plus ft.lbs?
When a flywheel comes loose it's usually because it didn't have enough dowel pins to hold it in place or the seating surfaces of the flywheel and crank aren't flat.
Or it wasn't tight enough in the first place.
Greg
Why?
While it doesn't hurt to add some loctite, have you ever seen a nut vibrate loose that's been torqued to 217 plus ft.lbs?
When a flywheel comes loose it's usually because it didn't have enough dowel pins to hold it in place or the seating surfaces of the flywheel and crank aren't flat.
Or it wasn't tight enough in the first place.
Greg
I took the 217 lb. from a SoCal.torque spec sheet that I have.
I surely agree with you that a flywheel not tight enough can and will work loose causing havoc with dowel pin holes becoming elongated and the very possibility crankshaft damage too. ~Alan
I surely agree with you that a flywheel not tight enough can and will work loose causing havoc with dowel pin holes becoming elongated and the very possibility crankshaft damage too. ~Alan
I just checked a VW "Without Guesswork" booklet. Your torque spec. is correct. 217 ft.lbs.
By the Way, the last time I looked "Without Guesswork" booklets were posted in a downloadable form on www.thesamba.com
Greg
By the Way, the last time I looked "Without Guesswork" booklets were posted in a downloadable form on www.thesamba.com
Greg
Back in the day, I had a 36hp Dune Buggy that, after I did a rebuild on it, I must not have tightened the flywheel gland nut properly and it loosened. After it did so, it "ovaled" the dowel pin holes so that when you tightened it later (we eventually went all the way to 300 ft. lbs.) it would just loosen up again - took about two weeks to start rattling again.
Finally, (I was 16 back then and didn't have a lot of money to throw at a toy car) I got tired of messing with it and ran a weld bead along two opposite flats on the gland nut, welding it to the flywheel. I sold the car three years later and never did have to get it apart.... ;>)
I didn't use to locktite the flywheel gland nut, but did so on my current engine just because the stuff was sitting there by the work surface. Six of one.......
I know Alan and Greg don't need this info, but thought others might find it useful, especially if you don't have a calibrated, 150-300 ft. lb. torque wrench.
For leverage, I went to Home Depot and bought a $6 dollar, 4-foot-long by 2 inch wide by 1/4" thick piece of steel flat stock (or you can buy the same "leverage tool" from EMPI for about $20 bucks) and drilled a couple of holes at one end to accept two clutch plate bolts (used the plate as a template).
You then bolt the bar onto the flywheel so that the long end is on the right as you face the flywheel and let the end touch the floor. Then I use a 2-foot breaker bar and socket with a 4-foot piece of pipe slid over the end and position it at about 1-2 o'clock on the right for leverage.
Now's the tricky part: Go weigh yourself....I just did, and I'm up again, but I weigh 169 lbs so I'll use that for an example.
I want to torque the gland nut to 217+- so divide 217 by 169 and you get 1.28 That means you want to put a piece of masking tape on the piece of pipe exactly 1.28 feet from the socket pivot point.
12*.28=3.36 inches, so put the tape at 15-3/8" from the pivot point of the socket. That should give you 217 foot pounds of torque when you put your full weight on the bar/pipe.
(Just insert YOUR weight into the equation to get the proper distance from the socket pivot point.)
Now, have something to hold on to to gently balance yourself and put one foot onto the pipe so your foot is centered exactly over the piece of tape, then stand on the pipe with your full weight. Don't bounce it, just stand there til it stops (it helps if the bar is at about 3 o'clock as you are standing on it).
That's it...you're done. Now, I know that this isn't as precise as using a calibrated torque wrench, but I've been doing this for years and never had one loosen up.
This technique works for the rear brake drum nut, too, although you'll need a different hole spacing on the bar for the lug bolts (use the other end of the bar).
gn
Finally, (I was 16 back then and didn't have a lot of money to throw at a toy car) I got tired of messing with it and ran a weld bead along two opposite flats on the gland nut, welding it to the flywheel. I sold the car three years later and never did have to get it apart.... ;>)
I didn't use to locktite the flywheel gland nut, but did so on my current engine just because the stuff was sitting there by the work surface. Six of one.......
I know Alan and Greg don't need this info, but thought others might find it useful, especially if you don't have a calibrated, 150-300 ft. lb. torque wrench.
For leverage, I went to Home Depot and bought a $6 dollar, 4-foot-long by 2 inch wide by 1/4" thick piece of steel flat stock (or you can buy the same "leverage tool" from EMPI for about $20 bucks) and drilled a couple of holes at one end to accept two clutch plate bolts (used the plate as a template).
You then bolt the bar onto the flywheel so that the long end is on the right as you face the flywheel and let the end touch the floor. Then I use a 2-foot breaker bar and socket with a 4-foot piece of pipe slid over the end and position it at about 1-2 o'clock on the right for leverage.
Now's the tricky part: Go weigh yourself....I just did, and I'm up again, but I weigh 169 lbs so I'll use that for an example.
I want to torque the gland nut to 217+- so divide 217 by 169 and you get 1.28 That means you want to put a piece of masking tape on the piece of pipe exactly 1.28 feet from the socket pivot point.
12*.28=3.36 inches, so put the tape at 15-3/8" from the pivot point of the socket. That should give you 217 foot pounds of torque when you put your full weight on the bar/pipe.
(Just insert YOUR weight into the equation to get the proper distance from the socket pivot point.)
Now, have something to hold on to to gently balance yourself and put one foot onto the pipe so your foot is centered exactly over the piece of tape, then stand on the pipe with your full weight. Don't bounce it, just stand there til it stops (it helps if the bar is at about 3 o'clock as you are standing on it).
That's it...you're done. Now, I know that this isn't as precise as using a calibrated torque wrench, but I've been doing this for years and never had one loosen up.
This technique works for the rear brake drum nut, too, although you'll need a different hole spacing on the bar for the lug bolts (use the other end of the bar).
gn
This tool is sold under different names at different places:
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC%2DC10%2D7036
It makes it very easy to remove gland nuts and rear wheel drum nuts. More importantly, it makes it very easy to precisely apply the proper torque when reinstalling the nuts.
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC%2DC10%2D7036
It makes it very easy to remove gland nuts and rear wheel drum nuts. More importantly, it makes it very easy to precisely apply the proper torque when reinstalling the nuts.