HELP ME BUILD THE COUPE
PLEASE GIVE ME IDEAS
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HELP ME BUILD THE COUPE
PLEASE GIVE ME IDEAS
PLEASE GIVE ME IDEAS
This thread is going to be fun - in a serious way. Thanks for asking for our input.
I know I tout Mike Lempert's steering wheels a lot, but there's something nice about dealing directly with the craftsman who creates what you have your hands on most of the time you're driving. Besides, he's a friend of mine. Give him a call (info at www.lempertwheels.com) and he can make a beautiful one-of-a-kind wheel for you. His prices are surprisingly reasonable.
Meanwhile I'll have my thinking cap on for other ideas - as will everyone else here.
I know I tout Mike Lempert's steering wheels a lot, but there's something nice about dealing directly with the craftsman who creates what you have your hands on most of the time you're driving. Besides, he's a friend of mine. Give him a call (info at www.lempertwheels.com) and he can make a beautiful one-of-a-kind wheel for you. His prices are surprisingly reasonable.
Meanwhile I'll have my thinking cap on for other ideas - as will everyone else here.
WHAT coupe?
GERD's getting a JPS coupe to replace his sadly destroyed Speedster. He's planning what sounds like an interesting outlaw.
Put a sun roof in it.
Berg 5 speed.
Are you going with flares?
Berg 5 speed.
Are you going with flares?
Hot pink with a white top, wide white wall tires, white snake skin interior with mother of pearl knobs. Kerswell pump mounted between the seats all chromed out! YOU WILL BE PIMPIN!!!
I vote for a big sliding Haartz cloth sunroof like the old ~57 Bugs had. Subbie mid-engine. AC of course.
Gerd,
If you're really serious about having a unique outlaw, do some research on Dean Jeffries. I'm sure Steele remembers him.
http://www.geocities.com/danielmacmillan/kustom/porsche.htm
If you're really serious about having a unique outlaw, do some research on Dean Jeffries. I'm sure Steele remembers him.
http://www.geocities.com/danielmacmillan/kustom/porsche.htm
Hey Marko...The reason Gerd needs idea's is because if he did it his way, it would look exactly as you discribed...
I think he would look right at home in the car, all he would need is a Huggie Bear hat.
The Jeffries car, honestly, was the first street Outlaw, everything before it was a chopped up race car or a factory prototype. A replica (even a partial one) based on a replica would be kinda cool.
Check this thread.
http://www.356registry.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1246
Check this thread.
http://www.356registry.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1246
Wolfgang, I think that if mid-engine anything (Subie or ?) is a consideration, Gerd would have to look elsewhere for a vendor. In any event, I see a Bali Blue coupe, no sunroof, nerf bars front and back, flaired fenders, a killer sound system and nice wheels. The K-pump is optional. Incidently, the "flairs" on the pictured car are actually formed into the body contour to allow the mounting of the seven inch rims.
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You first need to review all of the Outlaw threads on the forum and look at the tons or picture links that were already posted. There are countless wheel and tire and accessories options depicted there, along with some neat interior and trim details.
Before beginning, is this car coming from the same company that the green machine came from? Do we still hate him? Builder OR owner? I never got the memo, so I'm really not sure who got voted off of the island.
Anyway here's my list for what might be included in an Outlaw Coupe.
>Black is the first choice! Other than silver, gray, or gray green, no other metallic paints at all. Medium blues, very dark reds, non-metallic grays are good. NO yellow, white, orange or other colors usually found on a 914.
>Gray or oatmeal carpet. Go with a modern equivalent to square weave, NO woolens! Regardless of the carpet type or color, rubber mats in the front foot wells are a must.
>Custom shifter and classic wooden walnut Porsche crested shift knob. Even better if the shifter or housing is the aluminum one from a 356 C.
>Wooden rim, aluminum three bar steering wheel, also in walnut. Three holes or single slot per spoke. Large Porsche crest horn button, none of those tiny ricer steering wheels or those small MOMO or NARDI horn buttons.
>Early VW Beetle blinker switch and column. High beam switch on the floor where Porsche meant it to be. Paint these Almond or a darker tone, NO bright cream.
>Genuine 356 pedals if you can find them or 914 pedals instead. They look very similar, I like the 914 pedals best. The VW pedals scream replica and they're MUCH too close together for anyone with a big di . . c . . I mean with big feet. The 914 pedals bolt to the floor and pretty much match right up with the brake pin and cables. A little fussing but WAY worth it.
> Real 356 gauges, none of the silly repro stuff. The repros have Karmann Ghia bezels on them and just look wrong. Original gauges and original rubber gasket/rings to hold them in place. If you're going farther into Outlaw territory, and are planning on a non-stock look to the interior, use a 140 MPH 914 speedo and a 924 tach with the plastic cone replaced with flat glass. One of the other Porsches has a combination gauge with the gauges positioned at the side rather than the top and bottom, it's unique and cool and different from the usual. I have one, I can check to see where I picked it up and what it came out of. Additional gauges, VDO of course, ought to be placed in a black VDO mounting pod beneath the dash. Neat, sweet, and with a VDO logo cast into it.
>A roll bar is a must, a partial cage is just a whole lot cooler. Mount the harness to the cross bar and floor and you're done. Attach a tab for a camera mount to the top hoop and keep a video camera there at all times. Aim it downwards towards the passenger seat, just in case your girl wants to do a little flashing. Nothing better than an up-skirt . . . ! !
>Replace rear quarter windows with Plexi/Lexan/polycarbonate and fit them with either plastic louvers or clear NACA ducts. If you're daring, use aluminum for the windows and louvers.
>Hood straps on the front and rear lids by all means.
>Front "through the hood" fuel filler.
>External rear deck lid hinges. I like the ones from the early Triumphs, drilled of course.
>If you're going deep into Outlaw territory, save some money on window frames and just powder coat some trashed ones silver or body color.
>Louvered rear deck lid, third brake light inside the center grill. Single grill badge, the "Outlaw Road Racing" one.
>Early Beetle number plate light housing.
>Curved nerf bars.
>Bar-style headlight rock guards.
>Front fog/driving lights. One of each.
>Rear fog light.
>Lowered stance with wide five wheels and drum skins.
That ought to get you started. Ignore any or all of the above.
Luck,
ForUM PriCk
Before beginning, is this car coming from the same company that the green machine came from? Do we still hate him? Builder OR owner? I never got the memo, so I'm really not sure who got voted off of the island.
Anyway here's my list for what might be included in an Outlaw Coupe.
>Black is the first choice! Other than silver, gray, or gray green, no other metallic paints at all. Medium blues, very dark reds, non-metallic grays are good. NO yellow, white, orange or other colors usually found on a 914.
>Gray or oatmeal carpet. Go with a modern equivalent to square weave, NO woolens! Regardless of the carpet type or color, rubber mats in the front foot wells are a must.
>Custom shifter and classic wooden walnut Porsche crested shift knob. Even better if the shifter or housing is the aluminum one from a 356 C.
>Wooden rim, aluminum three bar steering wheel, also in walnut. Three holes or single slot per spoke. Large Porsche crest horn button, none of those tiny ricer steering wheels or those small MOMO or NARDI horn buttons.
>Early VW Beetle blinker switch and column. High beam switch on the floor where Porsche meant it to be. Paint these Almond or a darker tone, NO bright cream.
>Genuine 356 pedals if you can find them or 914 pedals instead. They look very similar, I like the 914 pedals best. The VW pedals scream replica and they're MUCH too close together for anyone with a big di . . c . . I mean with big feet. The 914 pedals bolt to the floor and pretty much match right up with the brake pin and cables. A little fussing but WAY worth it.
> Real 356 gauges, none of the silly repro stuff. The repros have Karmann Ghia bezels on them and just look wrong. Original gauges and original rubber gasket/rings to hold them in place. If you're going farther into Outlaw territory, and are planning on a non-stock look to the interior, use a 140 MPH 914 speedo and a 924 tach with the plastic cone replaced with flat glass. One of the other Porsches has a combination gauge with the gauges positioned at the side rather than the top and bottom, it's unique and cool and different from the usual. I have one, I can check to see where I picked it up and what it came out of. Additional gauges, VDO of course, ought to be placed in a black VDO mounting pod beneath the dash. Neat, sweet, and with a VDO logo cast into it.
>A roll bar is a must, a partial cage is just a whole lot cooler. Mount the harness to the cross bar and floor and you're done. Attach a tab for a camera mount to the top hoop and keep a video camera there at all times. Aim it downwards towards the passenger seat, just in case your girl wants to do a little flashing. Nothing better than an up-skirt . . . ! !
>Replace rear quarter windows with Plexi/Lexan/polycarbonate and fit them with either plastic louvers or clear NACA ducts. If you're daring, use aluminum for the windows and louvers.
>Hood straps on the front and rear lids by all means.
>Front "through the hood" fuel filler.
>External rear deck lid hinges. I like the ones from the early Triumphs, drilled of course.
>If you're going deep into Outlaw territory, save some money on window frames and just powder coat some trashed ones silver or body color.
>Louvered rear deck lid, third brake light inside the center grill. Single grill badge, the "Outlaw Road Racing" one.
>Early Beetle number plate light housing.
>Curved nerf bars.
>Bar-style headlight rock guards.
>Front fog/driving lights. One of each.
>Rear fog light.
>Lowered stance with wide five wheels and drum skins.
That ought to get you started. Ignore any or all of the above.
Luck,
ForUM PriCk
FP
AWESOME IDEAS
THANKS EVERYONE
AWESOME IDEAS
THANKS EVERYONE
Well, I don't really see the Coupe thing for a SoCal guy. I'd stick w/ the rag top, if it were me. Big engine, 5 spd trans, and flare it out if that is what you like. IRS, big sway bars, nice alloy wheels of some sort. The mechanicals will be the easy part; picking a color combo will drive you nuts, is my bet. I like the real P-style pedal idea, as I DO NOT LIKE the VW pedal cluster at all. One of the builders mounts up a real pedal system, using Detroit parts, as I understand it. Not sure if John is up to that, but I think it would make a big improvement: hydrualics vs. these pesky cables for the clutch.
Send pics of the wreck.
Send pics of the wreck.
TC/FP has you well hooked on on Outlaw Coupe ideas. Attached is a picture of my favorite coupe, although it's not really an outlaw. I absolutely LOVE this color.
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That's SO the color that I had in mind when I mentioned medium blue in a non-metallic. Just beautiful and it really works to highlight the body contours well.
Go early 356...
NO PROB GERD.... GLAD I COULD HELP!
Gerd,
Listen to me. Do everything TC except I have a few things to add on top. If I'm pickin up on what you're puttin down based on your last car do me a favor and keep it ol skool by skipping the flares. Now when I say that I don't mean skipping them all together, I mean just do subtle ones on the rear fenders, the ones you can barely tell are there. I also REALLY like the color matched wheels with skins. And finally, SLAM THAT BIATCH!!!
You know you want to paint it the same color as that greyish-green coupe. Do it!!!! Do it!!!!
Listen to me. Do everything TC except I have a few things to add on top. If I'm pickin up on what you're puttin down based on your last car do me a favor and keep it ol skool by skipping the flares. Now when I say that I don't mean skipping them all together, I mean just do subtle ones on the rear fenders, the ones you can barely tell are there. I also REALLY like the color matched wheels with skins. And finally, SLAM THAT BIATCH!!!
You know you want to paint it the same color as that greyish-green coupe. Do it!!!! Do it!!!!
My favorite
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WIDE FIVES!
http://www.qsm.com.au/show_wallpaper.php?id=56
Okay, I'll quit messing around. Here is the best one to model after.
Okay, I'll quit messing around. Here is the best one to model after.
Concerning the earlier mention of Dean Jefferies outlaw coupe: I am sitting here reading from "Rod and Custom", October, 1959 edition. It has a four page spread on Dean's car, the "Maltese Masterpiece" (the car had maltese crosses as a design theme). Originally a 58 Carrera coupe, the front end was extended and really rounded with sunken headlights and driving lights. The rear was also rounded and smoothed, with low mounted flush horizontal retangulaar taillights. Absolutely no bumpers, or headlight rims or license brackets visible anywhere, smooth like an egg. Dual external roof vents above rear window. Rear air grille was shaped like a fat TEE with additional louvers all across. No side chrome strips. Four centrally located exhaust ports under the naked rear valance panel. Engine compartment had engine turned panels for isolation and a clean look. Dual what-evers for carbs. No engine details are listed. An all around stunning car from 40 years ago!
Further trivia: The same car was also covered by "Custom Cars" May 1960 edition. They called it a 57 Carrera coupe. Statement is made that Barris (George?) did the body mods. Why do I still have this stuff?
Further trivia: The same car was also covered by "Custom Cars" May 1960 edition. They called it a 57 Carrera coupe. Statement is made that Barris (George?) did the body mods. Why do I still have this stuff?
Don't copy anything ..you have a clean canvas, make it "yours".
Dave, you still have that "stuff" because you knew that 50 years later you would need to refer to that document to assist in the planning of a friend's dream car. It's just that simple!
The pic Justin marked as 'favorite' is mine as well!
U GUYS ARE GREAT
ALAN
I AM A DUMB ACCOUNTANT AND I HAVE TO STEAL SOME THINGS BUT U R RIGHT
DOES ANYONE HAVE PICS OF THE EXTERNAL HINGES OF A REAR DECK LID
NOT SURE ABOUT A SUN ROOF
KELLY WAS AT THE SHOP WITH JOHN AND MY GRANDSON TODAY WITH A CAMERA AND HAD NO DESIRE TO HAVE A PIC OF THAT CAR.
AWESOME IDEAS U HAVE CONTRIBUTED AND GREATLY APPRECIATED
DESI CALL ME HAVE LOTS OF QUESTIONS ABOUT A 3M BRA LIKE GORDONS
ALAN
I AM A DUMB ACCOUNTANT AND I HAVE TO STEAL SOME THINGS BUT U R RIGHT
DOES ANYONE HAVE PICS OF THE EXTERNAL HINGES OF A REAR DECK LID
NOT SURE ABOUT A SUN ROOF
KELLY WAS AT THE SHOP WITH JOHN AND MY GRANDSON TODAY WITH A CAMERA AND HAD NO DESIRE TO HAVE A PIC OF THAT CAR.
AWESOME IDEAS U HAVE CONTRIBUTED AND GREATLY APPRECIATED
DESI CALL ME HAVE LOTS OF QUESTIONS ABOUT A 3M BRA LIKE GORDONS
BEE HIVE TAIL LIGHTS!
Hears one with rear hinges.
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Gerd.
You know that deep down you are a widebody guy so go for it with the coupe.
Troy
You know that deep down you are a widebody guy so go for it with the coupe.
Troy
Here's a link (again!) to a bunch of Outlaws and racers, about one third down on the second page there's a beautiful blue coupe, check the hinges on the rear deck lid.
http://356registry.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1372&highlight=outlaw
On the first page, around mid point is a red coupe version of Mickey's car.
Here's a re-post for you.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4115102&postid=53061835
The TR3 hinges are pretty sweet and in keeping with the organic shape of the 356 Coupe. I'm using them on my louvered rear lid.
http://www.moby302.co.za/photo/nz/triumph_tr3_04_dvdb08.JPG
And if you decide on four bee hives, the rear rear lights from an Austin Healey will fill the bill nicely and the cost is LOW.
Just look around on the web and you'll find TONS of wonderful ideas from all sorts of marques to incorporate into your build.
Luck and FUN ! ! But NO flairs . . .
FOrUm prICk
http://356registry.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1372&highlight=outlaw
On the first page, around mid point is a red coupe version of Mickey's car.
Here's a re-post for you.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4115102&postid=53061835
The TR3 hinges are pretty sweet and in keeping with the organic shape of the 356 Coupe. I'm using them on my louvered rear lid.
http://www.moby302.co.za/photo/nz/triumph_tr3_04_dvdb08.JPG
And if you decide on four bee hives, the rear rear lights from an Austin Healey will fill the bill nicely and the cost is LOW.
Just look around on the web and you'll find TONS of wonderful ideas from all sorts of marques to incorporate into your build.
Luck and FUN ! ! But NO flairs . . .
FOrUm prICk
You can always widen the rear without the use of flairs. IM does it and Steele told me he's done it before.
Dink Farmer, the builder of the silver bullet, widens the whole car as much as 11".
Sorry about the quality of the photos...
Dink Farmer, the builder of the silver bullet, widens the whole car as much as 11".
Sorry about the quality of the photos...
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SWEET ! ! ! ! ! Spy Photos ! ! ! !
Looks like something that Boston Blackie might drive . . . back to his secret mountain lair.
If he HAD one.
Wish that Farmer had a web site to go to so that I could snitch all of his WAY cool ideas
Looks like something that Boston Blackie might drive . . . back to his secret mountain lair.
If he HAD one.
Wish that Farmer had a web site to go to so that I could snitch all of his WAY cool ideas
Gerd,
Sorry for your loss and happy for your opportunity.
I have looked at this thread with interest, there are some great suggestions from everybody.
1. Roll cage. You need it look at the condition of your car (still want pics)after the flight. Any Crash protection you can add will be excellent.
2. Super Sound proofing everywhere.
3. Like the 914 pedal idea, add a 914 5-speed for a higher top end and a cable shifter like this http://www.cableshift.com/.
4. Check out Kevin Zagar's suspension package looks like that would be a good go fast upgrade.
Good luck and have fun
Dave
Sorry for your loss and happy for your opportunity.
I have looked at this thread with interest, there are some great suggestions from everybody.
1. Roll cage. You need it look at the condition of your car (still want pics)after the flight. Any Crash protection you can add will be excellent.
2. Super Sound proofing everywhere.
3. Like the 914 pedal idea, add a 914 5-speed for a higher top end and a cable shifter like this http://www.cableshift.com/.
4. Check out Kevin Zagar's suspension package looks like that would be a good go fast upgrade.
Good luck and have fun
Dave
I would really like to know more about using 914 pedals - pictures, description of what is involved, etc.
I could take some pics of what I have and how they'll fit together, but you would be FAR better off looking at a 914 close up.
The 914 pedal assembly is complete and bolts directly to the floor. In a VW, the area by the pedals is notoriously punky, rusty and weak. Some reinforcement is a good idea, either a plate welded on top or a a bolt through plate beneath.
On the 914, the master cylinder bolts to the pedal assembly; if you want to keep it this way, paint the master cylinder and use stainless front brake lines for a REALLY cool race-ready look. You can also run the clutch line through the tunnel and the throttle cable through a stainless brake hard line bracketed to the top of the tunnel and back to the rear. Purpose built and nut tough looking.
Otherwise just cut the mounting bracket in a good spot that lets the brake pin fit through the foot well and into the VW master in it's stock position. No matter, you can't make a mistake. Just cut and shape and bend and weld and you can align the assembly to fit perfectly. The brake pedal pin will line right up with the VW master cylinder, the length might need some adjusting depending upon where you mount the pedal assembly. Slotted holes on the assembly and floor would be a big help, here. The clutch cable hook is similar to the one in a VW and can be reshaped easily, I welded the VW one in in it's place, just 'cause the welder was out. The throttle cable hook-up is different in the 914 but can be used with ease or a hole drilled to accept the VW cable bent hook end. You WILL have to open up the small hole in the tunnel where the stock VW pedal assembly went in so as to attach the cables to the 914 set-up more easily. An access hole in the tunnel opposite the pedals is also a good idea. Keep the holes as round as possible so as to not weaken the tunnel. Rounded holes work VERY well, (Think drilled 32 Ford front dropped end.) without a loss of strength.
All of this is just parts and pieces, cutting and fitting with a little bit of measuring and planning. I think that it's going to worth the trouble. I HATE those VW pedals.
But, as I said, go find a 914 and look at the real thing in place on the pan. You'll understand everything at a glance. Easy Peasy. And a really cool feature of the pedal cluster is that the pedal arms can be adjusted to bring the pedals for and aft. You can put the seat where you like it in relationship to the steering wheel and THEN bring the pedals rearward or forward to you. Plus they're spaced for a regular person wearing regular work boots. No need for ballet shoes when driving.
The 914 pedal assembly is complete and bolts directly to the floor. In a VW, the area by the pedals is notoriously punky, rusty and weak. Some reinforcement is a good idea, either a plate welded on top or a a bolt through plate beneath.
On the 914, the master cylinder bolts to the pedal assembly; if you want to keep it this way, paint the master cylinder and use stainless front brake lines for a REALLY cool race-ready look. You can also run the clutch line through the tunnel and the throttle cable through a stainless brake hard line bracketed to the top of the tunnel and back to the rear. Purpose built and nut tough looking.
Otherwise just cut the mounting bracket in a good spot that lets the brake pin fit through the foot well and into the VW master in it's stock position. No matter, you can't make a mistake. Just cut and shape and bend and weld and you can align the assembly to fit perfectly. The brake pedal pin will line right up with the VW master cylinder, the length might need some adjusting depending upon where you mount the pedal assembly. Slotted holes on the assembly and floor would be a big help, here. The clutch cable hook is similar to the one in a VW and can be reshaped easily, I welded the VW one in in it's place, just 'cause the welder was out. The throttle cable hook-up is different in the 914 but can be used with ease or a hole drilled to accept the VW cable bent hook end. You WILL have to open up the small hole in the tunnel where the stock VW pedal assembly went in so as to attach the cables to the 914 set-up more easily. An access hole in the tunnel opposite the pedals is also a good idea. Keep the holes as round as possible so as to not weaken the tunnel. Rounded holes work VERY well, (Think drilled 32 Ford front dropped end.) without a loss of strength.
All of this is just parts and pieces, cutting and fitting with a little bit of measuring and planning. I think that it's going to worth the trouble. I HATE those VW pedals.
But, as I said, go find a 914 and look at the real thing in place on the pan. You'll understand everything at a glance. Easy Peasy. And a really cool feature of the pedal cluster is that the pedal arms can be adjusted to bring the pedals for and aft. You can put the seat where you like it in relationship to the steering wheel and THEN bring the pedals rearward or forward to you. Plus they're spaced for a regular person wearing regular work boots. No need for ballet shoes when driving.
Whats this set up for? I found it on the Fibersteel site ($850 - yikes!) I was just looking at it because I liked the drilled out arms. I have to either replace both floor pans completely or at least do another partial next winter and figured I'd do the pedal assembly while I'm at it. I like the 914 idea very much but will that clutch pedal be ok being out that far left in that tight area? What if you want a dead pedal also, won't that be a little much all tucked in there.
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