I hope I measured accurately enough, but it was a little tough as the Beck top does not come off. I got 52" from the windshield center (inside right above the center post) the the back center, and 39" from the windshield center to the leading edge of the rear bodywork behind the door. Is that what you're looking for? I wouldn't be surprised if my measurements were off by up to 0.25".
Hey you know, it's a step from duct tape :)
Lane,
That will work perfect. Thanks for taking the time to measure it for me. Looks like all the measurements are within a couple of inches of each other. Now the only question would be the radius of the back of the rear seat area. I believe that the easiest way might be to go ahead and build a piece that fits the curve of my CMC body and then send it around the country to see if it fits other cars as well. Might take a bit of time to accomplish and cost a little, but the end result would be well worth the intital investment. Anyone have a better idea on how to verify this? I am open to all suggestions.
Jim
That will work perfect. Thanks for taking the time to measure it for me. Looks like all the measurements are within a couple of inches of each other. Now the only question would be the radius of the back of the rear seat area. I believe that the easiest way might be to go ahead and build a piece that fits the curve of my CMC body and then send it around the country to see if it fits other cars as well. Might take a bit of time to accomplish and cost a little, but the end result would be well worth the intital investment. Anyone have a better idea on how to verify this? I am open to all suggestions.
Jim
Jim, instead of sending it around the country, just bring it up to Carlisle. That way you can check it out on pretty much every type of car.
...and a case of blue tape!
...and Duct tape for those who eat too many egg sammiches! WHAT!
Hi: I have the IM D roadster. Higher windshield but if you get that far I'm in for one.
Just a thought but the make and dimensions of the windshields are critical. Find out who uses the same ones and use that as your forward edge. For the rear you can make different adapter plates that would horse-shoe around the cockpit to accommodate the different heights, widths, lengths etc. As long as it seals and clamps at the top of the windshield you can make up the rest with adapters to a universal top.
Three or four little turnbuckles will snug it down, or lever cams for those who want constant changes.
Just a thought but the make and dimensions of the windshields are critical. Find out who uses the same ones and use that as your forward edge. For the rear you can make different adapter plates that would horse-shoe around the cockpit to accommodate the different heights, widths, lengths etc. As long as it seals and clamps at the top of the windshield you can make up the rest with adapters to a universal top.
Three or four little turnbuckles will snug it down, or lever cams for those who want constant changes.
Robert,
From my understanding, all the makes use the same windshield which is a very close duplicate of an original speedster windshield. The "D" roadsters use a totally different windshield. I would actually have to have a roadster to be able to modify the hardtop to fit it. I know that the original CMC windshield glass is identical in curvature and size to the Beck windshield. I am not sure about the Vintage one though. I also have an extra windshield assembly from a Beck Spider with is the same also.
Not sure how to attack the D roadster hardtop, but I am open for suggestions.
From my understanding, all the makes use the same windshield which is a very close duplicate of an original speedster windshield. The "D" roadsters use a totally different windshield. I would actually have to have a roadster to be able to modify the hardtop to fit it. I know that the original CMC windshield glass is identical in curvature and size to the Beck windshield. I am not sure about the Vintage one though. I also have an extra windshield assembly from a Beck Spider with is the same also.
Not sure how to attack the D roadster hardtop, but I am open for suggestions.
Lane,
Excellent idea. I was hoping to be able to have a few done by then, but it might be a good idea to finish the prototype and take it to Carlisle for fitting on the various brands. That would probably save a lot of headaches in the long run by ensuring the fit before I get too deep into this project.
Excellent idea. I was hoping to be able to have a few done by then, but it might be a good idea to finish the prototype and take it to Carlisle for fitting on the various brands. That would probably save a lot of headaches in the long run by ensuring the fit before I get too deep into this project.
Man that hardtop is going to have more mile on it than my Speedie! I still think it looked best when sitting on mine - the silver set the black off. I'd have to use silver duct tape though - the blue didn't cut it. My windshield was not firmly attached but it fit perfect as it was --- side window opening lined up perfectly with door opening and even with out material added in the back below the window it was a good fit.
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Jim,
Glad to bang heads and assist you with with the top fitment at Carlisle. and I'll bring my own magic blue tape and grease pencil too.
This top has been making it around more than a loose cheerleader :) ~Alan
Glad to bang heads and assist you with with the top fitment at Carlisle. and I'll bring my own magic blue tape and grease pencil too.
This top has been making it around more than a loose cheerleader :) ~Alan
Wolfgang: I think it does look a bit better on your car as you have no roll bar interfering with it. We just couldn't get the top to sit down totally on the car without hitting it. The w/shield and door fit was good on mine as yours. Below the window did fit the contour pretty good but the problem that arose with mine was the softtop snaps. I installed them as per the CMC manual and the top wanted to sit right on them. The top was still pretty close to the top of the back seat.
So two problems Jim will have to think about is working around the softtop snaps location and cars with roll bars installed.
~WB
So two problems Jim will have to think about is working around the softtop snaps location and cars with roll bars installed.
~WB
Bill,
Do you remember how big the gap was at the bottom of the hardtop when it was resting on the windshield frame and the rollbar? I have an original CMC rollbar that I can install and see if I can duplicate the gap that your car had. Off hand, do you remember how much the back leading edges needed to go back to line up correctly? On mine, it is about 3/4 - 1 inch. If I can duplicate the bottom gap that your had with the hardtop, I can fix the problem. The downside would be that the top would sit higher and give more of a bubble top effect. The plus would be additional head room and a taller rear window.
Do you remember how big the gap was at the bottom of the hardtop when it was resting on the windshield frame and the rollbar? I have an original CMC rollbar that I can install and see if I can duplicate the gap that your car had. Off hand, do you remember how much the back leading edges needed to go back to line up correctly? On mine, it is about 3/4 - 1 inch. If I can duplicate the bottom gap that your had with the hardtop, I can fix the problem. The downside would be that the top would sit higher and give more of a bubble top effect. The plus would be additional head room and a taller rear window.
I too am making a hardtop, but in Thailand for my personal use on a CMC clone.
My glass fabricator has made a styrofoam buck to fit the body, and is now making the top. Window will be lexan.
too early to tell how it turns out but the price is right, and I can have aircon in this tropical climate
My glass fabricator has made a styrofoam buck to fit the body, and is now making the top. Window will be lexan.
too early to tell how it turns out but the price is right, and I can have aircon in this tropical climate
Interesting hard top read.....
http://www.gambleart.com/registryarticle.htm
http://www.gambleart.com/registryarticle.htm
As I recall, there should be a written measurment in red grease pencil on the side of the hard top that indicated how much it needed to be set back to clear the door opening. I am thinking it was nearly an inch. As far as the top setting on the roll bar it was a resting so that the top was just off the rear deck....I think .
Bill, can you confirm or ? ~Alan
Bill, can you confirm or ? ~Alan
Alan,
The picture looks like the top is sitting an inch or 2 off of the body. I will have to take a look at the top for any markings on it. Were the markings based on Bill's car or yours? If I can get my rollbar mounted close to the same as Bills placement, I should be able to modify it to fit.
The picture looks like the top is sitting an inch or 2 off of the body. I will have to take a look at the top for any markings on it. Were the markings based on Bill's car or yours? If I can get my rollbar mounted close to the same as Bills placement, I should be able to modify it to fit.
Alan,
Interesting article. I like the design of the top. Just can't imagine trying to get in and out of the car with the top on. I originally thought about trying to build a carson top for my speedster. I have always liked the look of the carson tops on the old classics.
Interesting article. I like the design of the top. Just can't imagine trying to get in and out of the car with the top on. I originally thought about trying to build a carson top for my speedster. I have always liked the look of the carson tops on the old classics.
This was done on Bill's CMC...since the bar rests on the rear seat platform and the sides of the tub, it has just one location for it to be mounted " centered "
Yes the roll bar locn is critical.
However: not just one location:
I moved mine back about 2 in. (after removing rear seat) to allow driver's seat to move back enough for my legs. (Driver seat back now reaches all the way back to the rear frame/body cross pc.
This move would probably make interference with the hardtop mounting more likely.
The orig locn was just about where the CMC manual specified (relative to the rear door post I believe).
There is enough steel and etc to do this and maintain the same mounting base.
StanS
However: not just one location:
I moved mine back about 2 in. (after removing rear seat) to allow driver's seat to move back enough for my legs. (Driver seat back now reaches all the way back to the rear frame/body cross pc.
This move would probably make interference with the hardtop mounting more likely.
The orig locn was just about where the CMC manual specified (relative to the rear door post I believe).
There is enough steel and etc to do this and maintain the same mounting base.
StanS
WB, what if you just shortened your roll-bar a bit to accomodate the top?
Possible (mine is the same) but a lot harder than it sounds.
If we could do some lexan side windows hindged at the top like a gull wing door we'd have the side curtain issue solved too!
Holy crap. Here is a hardtop for those of you who have a 356 roadster/convertible D option. A bit pricey though. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=557899
For that price, I would expect it to be in mint condition.
For that price, I would expect it to be in mint condition.
I HAVE A HARDTOP FOR SALE, 800.00 AND CAN MAKE MORE WHO WANTS ONE, OR TWO OR THREE.
Mario,
Where are you located?
Do you have any pictures of the hardtop?
What car is it made for?
Where are you located?
Do you have any pictures of the hardtop?
What car is it made for?
Let's hear more from mario. Is this for real?
Mario did sent me pics of a hard top that is a bare shell ~Alan
i couln,t post pict , but did sent some to two of the members,iam in los angeles ca., the top of course doesn,t have windows or headliner material, its just that , just a hard top. Mario
Mario,
Does this include a back window? Are there latches for securing the top to the car?
Does this include a back window? Are there latches for securing the top to the car?
Mario, I would like to come by and see how it fits on my Vintage Speedster I live in Palos Verdes.
Jim.....speaking of back windows, look into the back window for a Miata hardtop.
It looks pretty close to what you have for an opening.....
gn
It looks pretty close to what you have for an opening.....
gn
Gordon,
I will be sure to check on the Miata hardtop rear window.
I e-mailed Mario concerning the top he is selling for $800 thinking that this may be an easier route to go. What he is offering is a hardtop that is minus the back window for it and no form of snaps to secure it onto the car with. Basically all he is offering is a bare shell. Looks like I will press on with this one.
Jim
I will be sure to check on the Miata hardtop rear window.
I e-mailed Mario concerning the top he is selling for $800 thinking that this may be an easier route to go. What he is offering is a hardtop that is minus the back window for it and no form of snaps to secure it onto the car with. Basically all he is offering is a bare shell. Looks like I will press on with this one.
Jim
JIM!!!!
Found some more goodies!!!
International Mercantile (800) 356-0012 has the rubber gaskets for the top (leading edge to windshield), side windows (Roadster and Cabriolet) and bottom (rear) (although the bottom gasket shows N/A right now, but they may be able to get/make them):
Top: P/N M117 (oem# 644.561.931.20) $13.00 each
Bottom Rear: P/N M54 (oem# 644.563.905.00) Not available at this time)
Side windows: P/N M70 (oem# 644.542.095.20) $35.00 each
gn
Found some more goodies!!!
International Mercantile (800) 356-0012 has the rubber gaskets for the top (leading edge to windshield), side windows (Roadster and Cabriolet) and bottom (rear) (although the bottom gasket shows N/A right now, but they may be able to get/make them):
Top: P/N M117 (oem# 644.561.931.20) $13.00 each
Bottom Rear: P/N M54 (oem# 644.563.905.00) Not available at this time)
Side windows: P/N M70 (oem# 644.542.095.20) $35.00 each
gn
Gordon,
Thanks a million. I will have to order some of the weatherstripping and see how it fits. I searched the internet for a source on the Miata hardtop back glass with no luck. Planning to try a couple of automotive glass shops around here to see if they can source it. Now I just need to find one to take a few measurements off of to see about compatability.
Jim
Thanks a million. I will have to order some of the weatherstripping and see how it fits. I searched the internet for a source on the Miata hardtop back glass with no luck. Planning to try a couple of automotive glass shops around here to see if they can source it. Now I just need to find one to take a few measurements off of to see about compatability.
Jim
the way to secure the top is; i used convertible top latches i got from the remove yourself wrecking yard, and i paid like 20.00 for a set of 4 latches ,as for the rear glass, i used lexan plastic and a heat gun, and i got a light tint on it, done.
Rusty tubs has a hardtop for sale with new rear glass, says he sells rear glass new on his website. I went to the site and couldn't find the glass listed seperately. They never return calls it seems, but might be worth persuing. They also have at least 3 brands of tops laying there. Prices are RIDICULOUS but maybe you could talk him into letting you rent one long enough to make molds.
Mario, please email me your cell I misplaced it. Thanks
Aaron,
RustyTubs wants $272 for the rear glass. According to them, it is made of a material similar to Lexan.
The only problem with the hardtops that they carry is that they are designed to fit real speedsters and range in prices from $1995 to $3995. Originals are also about 1-2 inches too short to fit a replica. Supposedly Fibersteel is planning to make one, at a cost of $1495. I don't know about you, but that is a little too rich for my blood.
I am currently working on one identical to the E-Bay auction. It is going to be extended a couple of inches to fit a CMC speedster.
Progress has been slow due to work and classes, but hopefully things will slow down shortly and allow for me to pick the pace up a bit.
Jim
RustyTubs wants $272 for the rear glass. According to them, it is made of a material similar to Lexan.
The only problem with the hardtops that they carry is that they are designed to fit real speedsters and range in prices from $1995 to $3995. Originals are also about 1-2 inches too short to fit a replica. Supposedly Fibersteel is planning to make one, at a cost of $1495. I don't know about you, but that is a little too rich for my blood.
I am currently working on one identical to the E-Bay auction. It is going to be extended a couple of inches to fit a CMC speedster.
Progress has been slow due to work and classes, but hopefully things will slow down shortly and allow for me to pick the pace up a bit.
Jim
Jim, I clicked on the link in the forum section to the speedsters UK sight, there is a speedster kit car being offered for sale on the home page with a beautiful hardtop on it. The car is being sold by a Steve Legend and if you click on the picture of the car in the text description he says it is being offered with the "very first top off the production line". No mention of any side curtains and none pictured. I agree that the rusty tub tops are too expensive and a $272 window adds alot to the cost, but this guy in the UK may have done the work for you. If you could sell a top for less than a grand I would buy it, I think you could sell many of them. I don't know what kind of resources you have available but if a guy had the ability and know how to make molds from the UK one it would save alot of R & D time and money. It would no doubt cost alot to buy the UK top and I don't even want to know how much to ship it, but those costs could be covered when you were go to production yourself... I'll be watching for progress, we don't get as many warm days in Wisconsin as I'd like, a hardtop would give us midwesterners a few more months a year of comfortable driving.