Need some help with stock vw cooling tin

I would bet the the brain trust here could help you a lot better with some pictures.  Just remember that the goal is to keep the heat exhausted by the fan from reentering the upper engine compartment.  Basically it's like the McDLT package that kept the hot side hot and the cold side cold.

@Lane Anderson posted:

it's like the McDLT package that kept the hot side hot and the cold side cold.

I really liked that sandwich and the concept. I'm not sure why it never caught on enough to keep. It's certainly better than that McRib thing they keep trying to "bring back for a limited time".

OTOH, I don't think Midwestern tightwads are their target audience. I was in a McDs a while back for the first time in 5(?) 7(?) years. When did it begin to cost $12 to eat a food-like sandwich, some soggy fries, and a soft-drink? That's within a couple bucks of a legit bar-burger and some decent fries.

I believe most try to run all the original tins should be used.  the breastplate above the flywheel should push the rubber floor mat forward to prevent burning.  The sides and back (rear of the car) are most important for sealing.  CMC (see build manual) came with fiberglass rough-cut flat pieces for the sides and double ones for the rear over the exhaust.  A late ('72 up) bus H-shaped seal is used along the sides and back.

As to the OEM tine - used the thermostatic flaps in the cooling shroud.  OEM shrouds have internal vanes for directing airflow.  Manynpush the (Bob) Hoover bit to seal oil cooler.  Since you don't have heater boxes - be sure to close off the heat blower tubes on the shroud and the ones (2 or 3) in the rear plate.  Industrial tins can be used (made) vs the OEM sled pieces.  Don't forget the small 1" deflectors between the cylinder cooling tins. 

Is this piece needed? I'm not even sure how I'd install that with the engine already in the car  🤦

Yes, that piece is needed.

Doesn't that piece just feed air into the stock oil cooler? I'm running an aftermarket remote oil cooler

@JoeyLegos posted:

Doesn't that piece just feed air into the stock oil cooler? I'm running an aftermarket remote oil cooler

On a VW, that piece seals the engine to the firewall, and air is blown out of the oil cooler through a duct, which is part #8 in the above diagram.

the cooling tin has 2 jobs , direct the air from the cooling fan over the heads , cylinders and oil cooler (if its in the fan housing)

And then to keep the hot air from the exhaust  and the "used" cooling air that is now warm out of the engine compartment .

Let me ADD , if you look at a stock VW bug you will see there are rubber seals on the body next to the engine that seals the engine tin  and stops the hot air from rising and getting into the engine compartment ,

356 Porsches use the same idea but the rubber seals are on the engine tin and not the body.

Yeah, that rectangular opening in that piece allows the output duct of the internal oil cooler to stick through to vent hot air out.  BTW, I considered going without the internal VW oil cooler on my 2,110cc engine, but I am very happy that I came to my senses and included it, along with a fan-assisted external cooler.  The internal VW oil cooler is highly effective, as it turns out.  I'm running all of the engine cooling tins from a 1971 1,600 engine, with the larger fan and so-called "Doghouse" cooler.

That piece you show can be dropped in from the top backside of the fan shroud if you're in a pinch.  It just sits on top of the engine to transaxle mating flange on the engine side, BUT if you still have the engine in place, you may have interference between the breastplate and the heat outlet duct when trying to install it.  You'll have to pull the throttle cable out the back side of the engine, pull the cable tube out towards the rear of the car a little for clearance, put the rear breastplate tin in place and replace the throttle stuff (the cable tube goes through that sheetmetal piece).  If this all sounds like a major PITA, then spend an hour and pull the engine out, put all the tin in place you need and replace the engine.

I use that piece to help attach the mat from the firewall to my lower heat shield, which I sent the template of to you,  @JoeyLegos  (and you don't have to send the templates back to me - You bought 'em. )   Once everything is in place and you see it, it will all make sense.  

I think I got it. Thanks for all your guy's help. I can finally see the light at the end of tunnel now. I can't wait to take this thing for a proper spin!