NEED Wiring Help - Driving Lights to Parking Lights

I'm in need of some wiring guidance! I don't want to over heat or melt anything at this point.

I'm working on a 2003 VS if this will help.

1. Looking to wire up 100 Watt Driving Lamps (shown in my photos) to activate simultaniously with Parking lights.
1a. Will the fuse handle that much draw? I'm clueless to the fuse setup on my car.
Fuse box not labeled clearly. Will they then turn off when I pull the switch to the headlights?
1b. Am I better off installing a separate switch with an inline fuse for the Driving Lamps?
It came with the package, but would like to have the same type of switch as the standard headlights with Ivory knob. Does anyone know a supplier?

2. Does anyone have a VS fuse box schematic that they can post? I'm assuming they are some what standard in configuration.

Thanks in advance!

The key to handle that much wattage and have bright lights without burning up the light switch or wiring is to use a relay. Here's link to basic wiring:
http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/bosch/foglites.htm

Many states require that auxiliary light must come on only with the other lights (at least parking) --- so you can't run away from cops without license/tail lights.

Did you do search on Forum -- someone posted info on their wiring awhile back.

Mel, As Wofgang mentioned it's best if the power supply for these is separate from the
power supply for you r reg. lights. This has the added benefit of having some lights to come home with. If it were piggy backed then you would/could lose all. I'm in NJ but the law here
is(and I think there too but not sure); fog/driving lights must be wired to come on with
your low beam and or running lights and switch off when your high beams are used. Jump
in to a newer suv and check the fog light on off with high beams on-no can do. If you
fog/driving lights are to be on a totally seperate system with their own "on/off" switch(I don't
think this is legal as you'd then be able to turn all lights on at the same time). I think thats
for "off road use only" and are to be covered during "on road". And you thought those
smiley covers on top of monster trucks where for show. In NJ you won't pass inspection
if the inspector knows his stuff. Relay it off the running light circuit. It's the neatest, safest
way. Good Luck with your install.

P.S.---Is that 100 watts each or total. Methinks they have something to say about that too.
100 total=ok.

Do not run the 100 watts on the same 14-16 gauge wire that supplies the park lights it will not hold up with the additional load. To be safe, run a minimum of a 12 gauge wire, inline 25 amp fuse and relay.

Thanks All for your feedback and advise.

Alan, I figured the parking wires would toast! Wolfgang, thanks for the diagram. I will check it against the wiring instructions they provided. Bruce, I've always prefered running them with the headlights when cruising thru the secondary roads, but now a days, my eyesight could use all the light it can get. YES they are 100W ea. Xenon bulbs according to the company...I can offer free tanning sessions to the ladies.

www.toucanindustries.com

100 watt each I would then go with a #10 wire

Mel, Understand that you need the "thicker" wire on the supply
side not the control side.

1.Supply side=Heavy wire from batt. source to relay, from relay to light then lights to ground.

2.Control side=Power source either with a switch or tied to your low beams (or combo of both), to the relay, then to ground.

The control side (relay,on switch) doesn't carry much amperage. Just
enough to activate the coil in the relay.

Thats a lot of tanning power. You may me pulled over for too high of
an output anyway. I think the limit is 55 watts each(if memory serves).

Yeah Bruce is right 55 watts for each light is more than enough ...."to light up your life"

Uh, Bruce ... What are you doing in about two weeks?
Kidding. I'm going to muck my wiring up ALL BY MYSELF. ;)
But I could use a shadow on the road trip to PA ... Can you drive a fire truck?

Cory, Sorry too busy for either. I'm sure you'll do fine by yourself but I do have some suggestions for you. Use the best connectors you can buy to eliminate future intermittent
issues. Solder everything, it's easy and secure. When I bought my old tvr the reason I got
such a good price was the car needed to be rewired. The tvr like your car has a tilt nose.
I added quick disconnect "cannon plugs" (you could use trailer hitch connectors) at the hinge
points of the body for easy access/removal during maintenance. I even had one for the dash,
it could be removed as an assembly with one connection and 6 screws.

Good stuff, Bruce. I'll look into the connectors and continue taking photos.
Cheers!

On topic, who makes the best pre-colored amber turn signal bulbs by type and model?
Off topic but related, Mel, I got the red lenses. TC, the old red and amber ones are coming your way tomorrow. Mel, you may get three handed to you in PA or one and two if they look as good as advertised with TC's secret recipe fix applied.
Mixing topics, has anyone ever put an amber turn indicator bulb behind a red lens to see the effect instead of red and amber light covers?
Hmmmm ...

Cory wrote :
.....best pre-colored amber turn signal bulbs

* Most any larger truck stop will have the amber bulbs.

Cory, glad you got the package! Nice to see more progress pics...it's really coming along.
What about those replacement LED bulbs? do they come in amber? and produce less heat. Someone posted a link recently.

LED looks bright and probably is the safest route, but they also look funky in the car. I went to a custom chopper shop to see what they had that I might be able to apply to the car, but all the little bulbs look wrong somehow.
Also, they all come on at once. They're a little too snappy for the overall impression I want the car to leave folks with. I like the incandescent filament effect, although I can't describe why.
Doubtless, LEDs are brighter and safer. Sounds a bit conflicted, huh?

Wiring diagrams for VW:
http://66.34.72.138/index.html