only has 150 miles on it so i am still babying it, nothing over 3000 rpm. runs strong and plenty of torque. kennedy stage 2 clutch is awsome.
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Bob,
What are the HP estimates on your new motor? I assume it has good low end torque.
Marty G.
What are the HP estimates on your new motor? I assume it has good low end torque.
Marty G.
bergmann "estimates" it at 176HP and 170 lbs torque, he doesnt dyno the motor but runs it long enough to show any problems... im happy so far..time will tell. it has more than enough ooomph for me..no cooling issues yet and it was 85 today running around town in traffic.
bob,
gotta ask: how does the rest of the car handle that much power? that's less than 10 pounds per horsepower... does it feel like it's gonna twist in half???
gotta ask: how does the rest of the car handle that much power? that's less than 10 pounds per horsepower... does it feel like it's gonna twist in half???
im on old geezer so i drive conservatively, havent really put my foot in it yet till its broke(hate that word) in. its just nice that the power/torque is there and it accelerates without straining the engine.
also the tranny is stock so i cant abuse the power. cant afford a tranny right now after paying for motor.
also the tranny is stock so i cant abuse the power. cant afford a tranny right now after paying for motor.
You may want to read this: I've suscribed to this method for several years and it really works and, it makes sense. I too came from the old school method of breaking in an engine but, times have changed.
Look at your "really" good engine builders. As soon as the engine is completed, they run it on a dyno at speeds and loads far greater than you're subjecting your new engine to.
Just as an example, I built an engine for a friend about 5 years ago. It was a simple 1835 but, a lot of very good components were installed. As soon as the engine was built, it was placed on a dyno and produced over 100 HP (not bad for an 1835) For the past 4 seasons, he's ran that engine "very" hard as it's in a sand rail.
Last summer, I took it apart as he wanted to stroke the engine. The pistons, cylinder walls, rings and bearings looked brand new.
Of course, do what you want but this is the newest and greatest way to build longevity and power.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Look at your "really" good engine builders. As soon as the engine is completed, they run it on a dyno at speeds and loads far greater than you're subjecting your new engine to.
Just as an example, I built an engine for a friend about 5 years ago. It was a simple 1835 but, a lot of very good components were installed. As soon as the engine was built, it was placed on a dyno and produced over 100 HP (not bad for an 1835) For the past 4 seasons, he's ran that engine "very" hard as it's in a sand rail.
Last summer, I took it apart as he wanted to stroke the engine. The pistons, cylinder walls, rings and bearings looked brand new.
Of course, do what you want but this is the newest and greatest way to build longevity and power.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Larry:
That is a GREAT article, and one my brother showed me earlier. He has been building racing Snow Mobile engines for years, and motorcycles before that and had worked into a very similar break-in method himself (but, like any other racing hobby, the fraternity of trusted engine builders is a pretty close group and methods travel fast).
The same went for me when I was a kid watching Al Alden build racing engines for 356's and 911's. He would "run them in" in a beater car he had just for that use before the engine was delivered to a customer (the shop was too small for a dyno back in the 60's).
He always warmed it up slowly, then went up and down the street a few times (he was way out in the woods of Upton, Massachusetts) making runs of increasing power for about half an hour, then went back to the shop and drained the oil.
It's important, too, to re-iterate something mentioned at the bottom of the article:
No Synthetic Oil During Break-In!!
In fact, I don't recommend ANY synthetic oil in a new engine for the first 10K - 12K miles. Then, if you want to switch to Synthetic oil, fine, as everything will be worn in correctly.
Lastly, I'm always amazed at the "sheen" in the oil drained out after the first 30 minutes after the first start-up - the metal worn off shimmers in the sun like a rainbow, showing that things have worn in correctly.
gn
That is a GREAT article, and one my brother showed me earlier. He has been building racing Snow Mobile engines for years, and motorcycles before that and had worked into a very similar break-in method himself (but, like any other racing hobby, the fraternity of trusted engine builders is a pretty close group and methods travel fast).
The same went for me when I was a kid watching Al Alden build racing engines for 356's and 911's. He would "run them in" in a beater car he had just for that use before the engine was delivered to a customer (the shop was too small for a dyno back in the 60's).
He always warmed it up slowly, then went up and down the street a few times (he was way out in the woods of Upton, Massachusetts) making runs of increasing power for about half an hour, then went back to the shop and drained the oil.
It's important, too, to re-iterate something mentioned at the bottom of the article:
No Synthetic Oil During Break-In!!
In fact, I don't recommend ANY synthetic oil in a new engine for the first 10K - 12K miles. Then, if you want to switch to Synthetic oil, fine, as everything will be worn in correctly.
Lastly, I'm always amazed at the "sheen" in the oil drained out after the first 30 minutes after the first start-up - the metal worn off shimmers in the sun like a rainbow, showing that things have worn in correctly.
gn
Thanks Gordon,
Many of us in our 60's were brought up with idea's that were prevalent for that era. Unless you realize that "things" have changed, you lock yourself into old practices that no longer are relevant to our modern era
Many of us in our 60's were brought up with idea's that were prevalent for that era. Unless you realize that "things" have changed, you lock yourself into old practices that no longer are relevant to our modern era
Yeah, talk about things "changing", look at how terrific the modern oils are for our engines.... |>(
More intrested reading on the "break in"
http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/engnbrkn.htm
This blurb from a TR6 site describes methodically how to do the "Accellerate/Decelerate"
break-in :
2) Drive the car gently to a sparsely traveled road. Accelerate through
> the gears normally until the engine is turning about 2,000 rpm in high gear
> (not overdrive). Accelerate at full throttle until you reach 3,000 rpm and
> then take your foot completely off of the accelerator. Let the car coast
> until the engine slows back down to 2,000 rpm and then repeat the full
> throttle acceleration back to 3,000 rpm. Repeat this cycle about ten times
> and the new rings should be properly seated (assuming they were correctly
> gapped and the proper cross-hatch pattern was honed on the cylinder walls).
>
> The theory behind this unusual technique is that the full throttle
> bursts create maximum pressure in the combustion chambers to properly seat
> the rings and valves, and that the in-between coasting periods create high
> vacuum to suck oil up the cylinder walls to lubricate everything and prevent
> excessive wear or hot spots on the cylinders. In fact, if someone is
> following behind the car being broken in, they may see little puffs of blue
> smoke come out the tailpipes between each cycle of the
> deceleration/acceleration routine. This is normal and good, as it shows
> that the cylinders are actually getting an extra dose of oil with each
> cycle. The smoking will stop as the rings seat.
> My experience with this technique has been excellent. The only car
> which I didn't employ the technique was my Healey 3000 Mk3 which was fitted
> with 5-ring A&E pistons and chrome moly rings. I followed the instructions
> which came with the pistons which only suggested gentle driving at changing
> speeds. The car always burned a little oil the rest of the years that I
> owned it! I think that those chrome moly rings really needed that
> on/off/on/off treatment to correctly seat, and that the gentle driving I did
> never loaded them enough.
>
> Regards,
> Rex Townsend
http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/engnbrkn.htm
This blurb from a TR6 site describes methodically how to do the "Accellerate/Decelerate"
break-in :
2) Drive the car gently to a sparsely traveled road. Accelerate through
> the gears normally until the engine is turning about 2,000 rpm in high gear
> (not overdrive). Accelerate at full throttle until you reach 3,000 rpm and
> then take your foot completely off of the accelerator. Let the car coast
> until the engine slows back down to 2,000 rpm and then repeat the full
> throttle acceleration back to 3,000 rpm. Repeat this cycle about ten times
> and the new rings should be properly seated (assuming they were correctly
> gapped and the proper cross-hatch pattern was honed on the cylinder walls).
>
> The theory behind this unusual technique is that the full throttle
> bursts create maximum pressure in the combustion chambers to properly seat
> the rings and valves, and that the in-between coasting periods create high
> vacuum to suck oil up the cylinder walls to lubricate everything and prevent
> excessive wear or hot spots on the cylinders. In fact, if someone is
> following behind the car being broken in, they may see little puffs of blue
> smoke come out the tailpipes between each cycle of the
> deceleration/acceleration routine. This is normal and good, as it shows
> that the cylinders are actually getting an extra dose of oil with each
> cycle. The smoking will stop as the rings seat.
> My experience with this technique has been excellent. The only car
> which I didn't employ the technique was my Healey 3000 Mk3 which was fitted
> with 5-ring A&E pistons and chrome moly rings. I followed the instructions
> which came with the pistons which only suggested gentle driving at changing
> speeds. The car always burned a little oil the rest of the years that I
> owned it! I think that those chrome moly rings really needed that
> on/off/on/off treatment to correctly seat, and that the gentle driving I did
> never loaded them enough.
>
> Regards,
> Rex Townsend