new axel boot question

A while back I had an axel boot split open and blast transaxel juice all over as you would expect. I ordered a new pair from one of the catalogs that I get , I think it was Mid- America and replaced the bad boot. The new boot was from Brazil and I'm less than impressed. It still ooozes a bit and I have cleaned it up and topped off the transmission , but I would like to get something a little more reliable. Anyone have an idea where I could locate an axel boot of a little better quality? Thanks

There is a certain way you have to install the boots on swing axle transaxles.

1) you want to clock the opening at 10 or 2 o'clock. This way the axle can go up and down without stressing the opening too much. And do not over tighten the nuts and bolts.

2) when you install the clamps on each end you want to do the in-board one first, then the out-board one. Also when installing the clamps you need to make sure you position the clamp so that it is near the opening. Basicaly where the screw is will be on one side of the opening and the strap on the other. This way as you tighten it, it pulls the two side together, thus sealing the ends.

Hope this helps.

This is the EMPI boot, installed on my swing-axle gearbox.

No leaks in almost five years, Al. Go with that 10 and 2 theory, and button it up like Kevin says. Dry like the Sahara.

Thanks, guys. I did install it at 10 o'clock in the way Kevin described. I will loosen up the outboard clamp and reposition it a bit. Maybe that will bring the ends together better, that's where the leak is. The only leak on the car, really. It is almost like the boot is too small for the axel, but that is not likely. In the mean time I will order the Empi boots and install them this Winter when I have some more down time. The orange looks cool and they seem to have more of a bellows than the Brazilian ones. Thanks again

Even some EMPI ones can be defective from the factory; I had such a case.

A little bit of talcum powder in the outboard end where it secures to the axle, and tighten the outboard end with the car on the ground if possible. The boot will be 'worked' less if it's secured in it's normal operating position.

Tightening the outboard end with the car on the ground is a real challenge, especially with the way these cars sit low on the back....

Ricardo, it's not necessary to do on the ground. I mean if you work on the ground just jack each wheel up to it's operating 'on the ground' level to tighten while the vehicle is up on stands or on whatever is used.

It's just a tip I remembered from long ago that installing those split boots can work better if they're secured close to where they'll live. Less stretch or stress on the things so less chance that they'll leak in short order.

The things, wherever they are used, are a stopgap sort of fix anyway. At best they'll work well for a long time, but often they fail sooner than original types would. It's just good to give them their best chance of long term success, IMO.

I actually did a swap last month and just used a pair of plastic ramps like you find at Pep Boys, Autozone, etc. Just get the car up there and it will be higher but resting on its wheels thus keeping the axles in the operating position.

ditto on the plastic ramps -- best $12 I ever spent.