NEW BUYER

If the cream one is an Intermeccanica, it's a very early one.  However, I don't see any indications that it is an IM.  The interior does not look like one.  The engine hood hinges would be stamped 'Intermeccanica'.

Both black cars look like Vintage builds but from which incarnation of the company is not obvious.  The white one is almost certainly a JPS.

Make sure you drive each car. This will almost surely lead you to choosing the car best for you.  With the prices these cars are bringing, the sellers should be responsible for knowing and telling you the make or brand of Speedster they have. If you aren't handy with tools and mechanical repairs, I recommend buying the water cooled Suby powered car if it is mechanically sound and drives well. This is my 2 cents of advice lol.

Thank you for this answer. I received something more about the black with red interior .. Japanese ?😅😅

White one info : Freeway Flyer 4-speed transmission

Twin Weber carburetors

Powerful Volkswagen 1776cc motor

Coker Classic tires

tonneau cover

side curtains

clean title in hand

Titled as 1960 Porsche

@Speedster23 posted:

White one info : Freeway Flyer 4-speed transmission

Twin Weber carburetors

Powerful Volkswagen 1776cc motor

Coker Classic tires

tonneau cover

side curtains

clean title in hand

Titled as 1960 Porsche

Man oh man, I hate that designation- Freeway Flier!                                                              At best it tells you absolutely nothing about what's in the transaxle; at worst it can create an overheating condition at speed, ESPECIALLY when a car is equipped with a smaller (<2 liter) engine.

More photo of the black with red interior

@ALB posted:

Man oh man, I hate that designation- Freeway Flier!                                                              At best it tells you absolutely nothing about what's in the transaxle; at worst it can create an overheating condition at speed, ESPECIALLY when a car is equipped with a smaller (<2 liter) engine.

Now you scared me 😅😅😅

I try to understand between vintage speedster/ Beck/ intermeccanica /jps /cmc is the best product ….

I like more close possible to original

@Speedster23 posted:

Titled as 1960 Porsche

That would be a deal-breaker for me.

@Stan Galat posted:

That would be a deal-breaker for me.

So you think is bad if have Porsche title ?

Umm, powerful 1776?

@Speedster23 posted:

So you think is bad if have Porsche title ?

It would be a real problem for me. It isn’t (and never has been) a Porsche.

@barncobob posted:

Umm, powerful 1776?

I was thinking the same thing, Bob. There’s nothing wrong with a nicely built 1776. But at this point in the game, an 82 mm crank to make it a 2110 seems like pennies to vastly improve the experience.

@barncobob posted:

Umm, powerful 1776?

A 1776 can be as tame as stock (stock cam, stock carb, stock heads) with just a few more hp and a wee bit more torque, a peppy little thing that makes 50% more power than a 1600 and revs to 5500-6,000 rpm and still has reasonable bottom end/lower midrange with dual kadrons or Webers/Dellortos, Engle W110 camshaft and ported stock valve heads, or a 140hp small block eater that revs to 7,000 rpm with said Webers/Dellortos, W125 (or even W130 if you really want it to be a 'bullet') cam and ported 40x35 heads. Adjust expectations for engine life length and amount of maintenance needed.

@Speedster23 posted:

So you think it is bad if it has a Porsche title ?

It is if the state you are in taxes it like it's a real Porsche.  I'm not sure, but there also may be difficulties in registering it in some other states?                                                       And btw, I fixed your grammar- taking the time to proofread what you've written before posting makes it easier to understand.

@Stan Galat wrote- "I was thinking the same thing, Bob. There’s nothing wrong with a nicely built 1776. But at this point in the game, an 82 mm crank to make it a 2110 seems like pennies to vastly improve the experience."

That only works if the heads, carbs and exhaust are all more than needed for the smaller displacement/rpm range.  IF any of those components are sized too small for the larger displacement, you'll end up with fantastic power to the limit of that part, but it won't even rev to what the redline is now.  For example, if the engine goes with power to 5500 or 6,000 rpm as a 1776, adding that much displacement would lower top revs close to 1,000 rpm if 1 or more parts is wrong.

See you're in South FL - so not issue while there - but could limit resale. In some states (VA for sure) you are taxed (initially and each year - personal property tax) by how the car is titled.  They'd look up '60 Porsche and you'd most likely see an extra zero in your tax bill.  Insurance could be an issue too!

The black with red needs a lot of restoration - door panels destroyed, no seal around engine, chrome wheels rusted.  (Ha, maybe in FL already).  Looks like they left top down all the time.  Dinky carbs too. Not knowing prices - that first one is a real beauty!  I'd spray the big ac unit tan to match dash rather than the grey though.  The ivory one looks well maintained (pictures hard to tell) and decent carbs - wouldn't pay any extra thinking it was IM unless proven to me - looks like a VS interior update.

The 3 small gauges in the dash would be a deal breaker for me.

@Troy Sloan posted:

The 3 small gauges in the dash would be a deal breaker for me.

Yes I totally agree , I don’t like too. Eventually I think about to hidden, but I m not Sure. the owner think is a jps but is not 100 sure .. I don’t know jps where install the gauge for the water temperature.

@WOLFGANG posted:

See you're in South FL - so not issue while there - but could limit resale. In some states (VA for sure) you are taxed (initially and each year - personal property tax) by how the car is titled.  They'd look up '60 Porsche and you'd most likely see an extra zero in your tax bill.  Insurance could be an issue too!

The black with red needs a lot of restoration - door panels destroyed, no seal around engine, chrome wheels rusted.  (Ha, maybe in FL already).  Looks like they left top down all the time.  Dinky carbs too. Not knowing prices - that first one is a real beauty!  I'd spray the big ac unit tan to match dash rather than the grey though.  The ivory one looks well maintained (pictures hard to tell) and decent carbs - wouldn't pay any extra thinking it was IM unless proven to me - looks like a VS interior update.

Perfectly understand your point . In any case I don’t want buy something without know how build the car .. this one of the point I want understand

What you guys think is the most “ original “ speedster ? Beck … probably?

what I don’t like in a lot of replica is the dashboard without the properly leather finishing

i like the style like original dash ( attachment)

The raised vinyl-covered rubber safety (?) strip across the dash is FF/CMC and early IM.  The center tunnel hand brake is a replica VW pan-based giveaway.

Even knowing who produced the shell might not tell you who built it as many like VS/BECK/JPS/TR were sold as rollers - where the buyer added engine/trans etc.  A conscientious sell would have a folder on the car with engine build spec and trans and maybe brakes.  A reputable engine builder would add to value over a generic Mexi-crate engine.

@WOLFGANG

I'm pretty sure that Becks also have that dash pad, don't they?

@Troy Sloan posted:

@WOLFGANG

I'm pretty sure that Becks also have that dash pad, don't they?

Yes this photo is from a Beck … dashboard is like original  

This is another one … black / red interior

description

1957 Porsche Speedster 356 Beautiful striking black gelcoat shines nicely and in exceptional condition with blazing red interior. Low miles, Recent tune up and valve adjustment, rear engine crank seal and flywheel, and oil change. This is a great runner with a VW 1832 cc motor and on built on a 1969 VW frame. Lightly used German Canvas convertible top with side curtains. Extremely dependable runner. Tires 90%, newer battery, highway gear, chrome pulley, new sound-proof floorboards, new bearings, new brakes, rotors and brake pads.

BUILDER UNKNOWN

@ALB posted:

That only works if the heads, carbs and exhaust are all more than needed for the smaller displacement/rpm range.  IF any of those components are sized too small for the larger displacement, you'll end up with fantastic power to the limit of that part, but it won't even rev to what the redline is now.

All true

… but I was talking about a “nicely built” 1776, not a stock engine with a 90.5 piston/cylinder set. There are very few engines as nice as a 2110 with some nicely ported 40x35 heads, a W120, some 40s, and a real 1-1/2 header.

When I talk about a “nice” 1776, I’m assuming that most all of that is already there.

Other photo of the Subaru engine speedster ( maybe jps)  

Having just sold my Vintage Speedster if the seller cannot give you every intimate detail of the car's origin and history I would run away. Knowing who built your car is pretty basic as far as ownership goes. That fact alone would tell me to run away. Probably just a car flipper that bought someone else's problems. For what it's worth, Vintage Motorcars is no longer producing Suburu powered cars. I know a few owners that love them, but to me it is too far from the original intent.

@Stan Galat- all I'm saying is that depending on what's there in someone's 'nicely built' (what do you think exactly constitutes 'nicely built' anyway? Kind of like asking what's a Freeway Flier- and you know what I think about that!) 1776 it may take more than just upping the displacement to unlock the new engine's true potential.

"When I talk about a “nice” 1776, I’m assuming that most all of that is already there."

What's correct for a 1776, even 1 that revs to 5500 or 6,000 rpm with power is ported stock valve heads (they will make power to 120hp when done right) and 40 mm carbs.  A 1½" is right for the smaller engine and the upgrade on a 2110, but only when peak power is below 6,000 rpm (the header size chart we use as a reference shows 1½" only good to 5850 rpm).   A 1776 that peaks at 6,000 rpm with Panchitos and 44's can be tuned to run smooth and troublefree, but IT'S NOT OPTIMAL- it won't have quite the bottom end/lower midrange or gas mileage that it will with smaller heads and carbs, and that's my point.

I guess we have different definitions of  what 'nicely built' is- I think a 1776 that only revs to 5,000 rpm is nicely built if it's got appropriate power all the way through out the powerband and gets the best mileage possible for the combo.  This generally happens only when all the parts match, and transferring either the heads or carbs to a 2110 (334 cc's, or almost 20% larger) will seriously limit it's rpm capabilities.

Now, I'm the first to admit that there's not going to be a lot of difference between the 2 1776 combinations described, but when talking about the 'right' combo for a street engine I'll pass on the 1 with too much intake volume and is over-carbed any day.

So much misinformation remember George .  A person has to do his homework before stepping into a car to avoid major disappointment, and a total money pit. There is no such thing in my opinion as an easy buy in this hobby, due to the fact that there are so many handcrafted, and so many options, dreams and opinions opinions from people who truly are not car guys hence the fraud that happens.

@majorkahuna posted:

Having just sold my Vintage Speedster if the seller cannot give you every intimate detail of the car's origin and history I would run away. Knowing who built your car is pretty basic as far as ownership goes. That fact alone would tell me to run away. Probably just a car flipper that bought someone else's problems. For what it's worth, Vintage Motorcars is no longer producing Suburu powered cars. I know a few owners that love them, but to me it is too far from the original intent.

Yes I understand your point … I agree with you. For what the owner know is a jps… but I other jps Subaru I don’t see the gauge like this one …..

from my No experience the old Beck look like the most similar to original speedster

I’m just curious @Speedster23 , how have you found these cars?  How are they advertised, and how are you in communication with each seller?  You say you are new to this group, so you may not have read any number of posts that discuss less-than-reputable sellers and scam websites.

@Speedster23 posted:

This is another one … black / red interior

description

1957 Porsche Speedster 356 Beautiful striking black gelcoat shines nicely and in exceptional condition with blazing red interior. Low miles, Recent tune up and valve adjustment, rear engine crank seal and flywheel, and oil change. This is a great runner with a VW 1832 cc motor and on built on a 1969 VW frame. Lightly used German Canvas convertible top with side curtains. Extremely dependable runner. Tires 90%, newer battery, highway gear, chrome pulley, new sound-proof floorboards, new bearings, new brakes, rotors and brake pads.

BUILDER UNKNOWN

Correct me if I'm wrong guys but weren't the only cars done in colored gelcoat CMC/Fiberfab cars? And CMC/Fiberfab cars were 90% all homebuilt cars. And not that homebuilt cars are a bad thing because we have some guys on the forum who have built some incredible car and others who are just some incredible builders. But the for the majority you just don't know who or what you're getting. It will require some scrutiny and a thorough inspection so you know what you're getting.

But in reading all of you posts it sounds like you want the most ORIGINAL looking Speedster and you're not concerning yourself with the mechanicals. That's is the WRONG way to buy these cars. That method of buying a used Speedster will drag you to the bottom of the money pit faster that, well, never mind, but it'll take you to the bottom of the money pit quickly. Buy the Speedster that is in the best mechanical shape that your mechanical abilities can handle and make it work from there.

These are not real Speedsters, will never be real Speedsters no matter what you do to it, no matter how many real Speedster parts you put on it, no matter how many modifications you make to it, and anyone who knows anything about Speedsters can tell in about .001 seconds when they walk up to the car. So don't waste time and money on that pipe dream.

Correct on the finished gel coat. Took a lot of buffing and maybe ceramic wax to get the black gel coat finish that sparkily.  Same color combo I purchased --- the red is lipstick bright red!  I even got the red carpet - wow, too much red for me now.  That one has black nicely trimmed with red carpet which look sharp.

I see several of them on Facebook Marketplace in TX/FL/GA

@Jon T posted:

I’m just curious @Speedster23 , how have you found these cars?  How are they advertised, and how are you in communication with each seller?  You say you are new to this group, so you may not have read any number of posts that discuss less-than-reputable sellers and scam websites.

Offer up and some website 😅

Yes. I understand i m totally new here and I like detail….

and I m here for learn from this group…..

for the one s I look in person … Beck look like one of the best … but I m here for learn and  listen All the options. Thank you

Anyway is someone have good cars to suggest me in the market please let me know … for what I see in person the beige one look really nice .. but now I have doubts about the title Porsche

It looks like the first black-with-red car is missing the caps on the top of the doors.

Follow Robert’s advice, and buy the nicest car you can afford. Expect to spend more yet in the first year of ownership.

I’d run away from a gelcoat car - in the same way that if my first impression of a car was negative (wrong color, wrong gauges, wrong upholstery, wrong carpet, etc.), I’d stop looking at it.

The mechanicals are important, but paint/body work is where money goes to die.

@IaM-Ray posted:

So much misinformation remember George .  A person has to do his homework before stepping into a car to avoid major disappointment, and a total money pit. There is no such thing in my opinion as an easy buy in this hobby, due to the fact that there are so many handcrafted, and so many options, dreams and opinions opinions from people who truly are not car guys hence the fraud that happens.

Are you talking about VW drag racer from Texas George (who so many on the Samba thinks is a VW god)? I kind of lost respect (not that I had a lot to begin with- we had some pretty 'interesting' conversations and I already thought he was a bit of an idiot ) when upon realizing that the windshield post holes had been drilled in the wrong place he bolted it down anyway, even going so far as fabricating some little aluminum brackets to try to stabilize the whole assembly.  That really was a case of someone not knowing how deep the hole they'd jumped into would be.  I could never figure him out- with all his VW experience you'd think he would have known better.

If you're talking about some other George- well, never mind...

@Stan Galat posted:

Follow Robert’s advice, and buy the nicest car you can afford. Expect to spend more yet in the first year of ownership.

I’d run away from a gelcoat car - in the same way that if my first impression of a car was negative (wrong color, wrong gauges, wrong upholstery, wrong carpet, etc.), I’d stop looking at it.

The mechanicals are important, but paint/body work is where money goes to die.

Runaway from what car I post?