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@Robert M posted:

Correct me if I'm wrong guys but weren't the only cars done in colored gelcoat CMC/Fiberfab cars? And CMC/Fiberfab cars were 90% all homebuilt cars. And not that homebuilt cars are a bad thing because we have some guys on the forum who have built some incredible car and others who are just some incredible builders. But the for the majority you just don't know who or what you're getting. It will require some scrutiny and a thorough inspection so you know what you're getting.

But in reading all of you posts it sounds like you want the most ORIGINAL looking Speedster and you're not concerning yourself with the mechanicals. That's is the WRONG way to buy these cars. That method of buying a used Speedster will drag you to the bottom of the money pit faster that, well, never mind, but it'll take you to the bottom of the money pit quickly. Buy the Speedster that is in the best mechanical shape that your mechanical abilities can handle and make it work from there.

These are not real Speedsters, will never be real Speedsters no matter what you do to it, no matter how many real Speedster parts you put on it, no matter how many modifications you make to it, and anyone who knows anything about Speedsters can tell in about .001 seconds when they walk up to the car. So don't waste time and money on that pipe dream.

Early IM's were gelcoat, Robert (at least mine is).

And as Robert said, accept the fact that it's a replica, always will be a replica, and owning even the most very realistic looking replica will never buy your way into the P world.  Now with that realization comes another realization- you can do anything to your Speedster that you want- engines, transaxles, brakes, wheels and tires- you name it- it's open (just remember that if you do anything too stupid we'll let you know) .

@Stan Galat posted:

Follow Robert’s advice, and buy the nicest car you can afford. Expect to spend more yet in the first year of ownership.

I’d run away from a gelcoat car - in the same way that if my first impression of a car was negative (wrong color, wrong gauges, wrong upholstery, wrong carpet, etc.), I’d stop looking at it.

The mechanicals are important, but paint/body work is where money goes to die.

I’m surprised Stan hasn’t also posted some of his best other best advice: You’re buying the seller as much as you’re buying the car.

If someone isn’t forthcoming, can’t answer simple questions, seems dodgy or sketchy, has reasons you can’t see the car in person, can’t send you a specific photo, tells you he’s in one place and the car is somewhere else, won’t take a phone call, only communicates via email and no text messages, or something else seems off it’s a scam.

I always ask for a specific photo that has to be taken fresh and can’t be gleaned from an old ad of someone else’s car. Something like, “Would you mind showing me the VIN under the piece of carpet at the back of rear tunnel?” Or, “Would you lift the passenger seat cushion so I can see the condition of the fiberglass seat tray?”  Or ask them to include a piece of paper in the photo with the current date . Just something that there isn’t likely to be a photo on the internet of so you know the car is in their possession. If they start making excuses say thank you but no thank you and move on.

Last edited by Robert M
@ALB posted:

Early IM's were gelcoat, Robert (at least mine is).

And as Robert said, accept the fact that it's a replica, always will be a replica, and owning even the most very realistic looking replica will never buy your way into the P world.  Now with that realization comes another realization- you can do anything to your Speedster that you want- engines, transaxles, brakes, wheels and tires- you name it- it's open (just remember that if you do anything too stupid we'll let you know) .

Replica, Schmeplica. Any car coming out of Vintage or Special Editions* is 10x the car an original was. Superior in every way. From rust protection to disc brakes to 100+ hp.  

The only people who GAF are posers and collectors.



*Honorable Mention to @Alan Merklin, if I’d have had the money, I would have fought tooth and nail for the Outlaw he just built. And I don’t even like outlaws.

Last edited by dlearl476

Beck and Vintage Motorcars are the only people to buy from new, in my opinion.  Do some research on this site to find out why we don't recommend the other current builders.  If you're looking for a used car (and it looks like you are) it's a bit more open, but those are still the two best choices.  If you can find a used Intermeccanica with a tube frame then that's an excellent choice, but they're rare and usually pricey.  The early pan-based Intermeccanicas started the whole business, but they're all pretty old by now, so it will depend on the owner and how they've maintained it.  As some folks said above, the owner is key because of maintenance and knowing what you have.  Don't rush and do your research.

@Speedster23 posted:

so for what I understand vintage speedster and Beck ( special edition) the are the best ?

Please read more before you buy. There are years and years worth of posts to comb through. This question worries me.

If you were buying new, then yes - Vintage and Beck are the only places I'd send money now.

... but you're not buying new. The landscape of replica-world has changed a lot in 10 years.

The specs and condition of a specific car is a lot more important (to me) than an arbitrary "who's best". For example, Intermeccanicas built in Vancouver are probably the historical highwater mark of the hobby, but Intermeccanicas built in the 70s in California aren't anything special. Ditto "Vintage Speedsters", which could mean any one of three different companies, all with varying degrees of finish level.

There have been fantastic JPSs and absolute shipwreck JPSs. I've seen used tube-frame (Vancouver) IMs that were not well cared for and were not worth the ask, and I've seen IMs that were under-priced at nearly $100K (used). A CMC can mean anything. Al Meklin has an outlaw with a body built by a guy in Mexico, and it's gorgeous.

Read, and then look at the car you're interested in. It takes skill and experience to be able to determine anything from pictures. At the prices these cars are bringing, no level of flakiness should be tolerated. I'd fly out to look at anything I was spending more than $40K on.

Forewarned is forearmed.

Last edited by Stan Galat
@Stan Galat posted:

Please read more before you buy. There are years and years worth of posts to comb through. This question worries me.

If you were buying new, then yes - Vintage and Beck are the only places I'd send money now.

... but you're not buying new. The landscape of replica-world has changed a lot in 10 years.

The specs and condition of a specific car is a lot more important (to me) than an arbitrary "who's best". For example, Intermeccanicas built in Vancouver are probably the historical highwater mark of the hobby, but Intermeccanicas built in the 70s in California aren't anything special. Ditto "Vintage Speedsters", which could mean any one of three different companies, all with varying degrees of finish level.

There have been fantastic JPSs and absolute shipwreck JPSs. I've seen used tube-frame (Vancouver) IMs that were not well cared for and were not worth the ask, and I've seen IMs that were under-priced at nearly $100K (used). A CMC can mean anything. Al Meklin has an outlaw with a body built by a guy in Mexico, and it's gorgeous.

Read, and then look at the car you're interested in. It takes skill and experience to be able to determine anything from pictures. At the prices these cars are bringing, no level of flakiness should be tolerated. I'd fly out to look at anything I was spending more than $40K on.

Forewarned is forearmed.

Thank you for your time … my idea in any case is repaint and put new leather in the any car because I have a personal idea of the colors I want …. The guy of the Subaru engine sell me the car for 33.k but I don’t like to much the idea of water cooled …



the cream one for now look the best, the owner think is a intermeccanica… but I m not sure

@Speedster23 posted:

Thank you for your time … my idea in any case is repaint and put new leather in the any car because I have a personal idea of the colors I want …. The guy of the Subaru engine sell me the car for 33.k but I don’t like to much the idea of water cooled …



the cream one for now look the best, the owner think is a intermeccanica… but I m not sure

Ask him to send you a picture of the engine lid hinges. they should be stamped with the Intermeccanica name. Also ask him to send you a picture of the hood handle crest. If he hasn't changed it to a Porsche crest it will have the Intermeccanica bull on the crest or the letters IM. Can anyone else chime in on that tidbit of info?

Last edited by Robert M
@Speedster23 posted:

Thank you for your time … my idea in any case is repaint and put new leather in the any car because I have a personal idea of the colors I want …. The guy of the Subaru engine sell me the car for 33.k but I don’t like to much the idea of water cooled …



the cream one for now look the best, the owner think is a intermeccanica… but I m not sure

New paint and leather?  You sound like you want it to be pretty nice overall.

IDK what you want to spend on paint, but it could be 10k or more. Leather?  Maybe another 3k?  You were showing 38k to 40k cars as examples. So it seems like you’re up to 51k + on your budget? Then you’ll want to fix this and that, freshen the top and tires, maybe some chrome bits, do more things to get it tip top. I’m guessing you might spend 55k in the end.  

Unless you decide to get a Suby (which is no longer available from VMC), you might just get a new one. It will take longer but then it will be exactly what you want all the way down to the headlights and license plate trim.  Mine only took 15 months for VMC to make to order.

Yes, it will seemingly be more, but in the end, it might be cheaper?  Something to consider.

Last edited by Teammccalla

The red Beck is my old car.  I sold it in 2019 for ~$35k, but the owner didn't keep it long and sold it at a loss for $31,750.  I've seen an add for it recently at $47k, which is too high and could be a scam.  It would be a good buy at a lower price.

HI lane …. Thank you for he info … I think the guy actually is the real owner , I ask to him some personalized video for me … and look like the car is real …



What info you can give me about your former car? What you think is a right price ?

thank you

The Subaru powered one would check all my boxes (especially living in FL).  It gets very hot and humid in July/Aug in FL (already getting there with 96 degrees!).  A/C (and assume heat for defrosting), Optima battery, Fuchs wheels, Nardi steering wheel, cocoa mats, luggage rack, popular color combo (JPS seems to have great paint!), extra gauges appear to be VDO (you could change bezels to chrome).  $33.xK is underpriced if car "pans" out.  Is it near East Coast?

@WOLFGANG posted:

The Subaru powered one would check all my boxes (especially living in FL).  It gets very hot and humid in July/Aug in FL (already getting there with 96 degrees!).  A/C (and assume heat for defrosting), Optima battery, Fuchs wheels, Nardi steering wheel, cocoa mats, luggage rack, popular color combo (JPS seems to have great paint!), extra gauges appear to be VDO (you could change bezels to chrome).  $33.xK is underpriced if car "pans" out.  Is it near East Coast?

The owner is not sure about production jps…. Is what we try to understand

Last edited by Speedster23
@dlearl476 posted:

Beverly Hills Car Club has a reputation for selling cars with misleading descriptions and undisclosed damage. If you ever consider buying anything from them, best to have it inspected by a very knowledgeable independent third party. You can google a bunch of horror stories on the internet.

Not true. That was Beverly Hills Motorcars out of San Diego. They have since sold and changed the name. They posted cars for sale they didn't have and tried to bait and switch you.

Beverly Hills Car Club is owned by Alex Manos and he has a very fine selection of cars that are all for sale, for reals.

Last edited by Robert M
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