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Rich Drewek posted:

Looking forward to corn field cruising with all you guys soon!

Since you change cars so regularly, perhaps it's time for another speedster again, Rich. I think a nice 2.5L Subi/speedster from Beck would be a good fit... you know for the man with everything (including a vacation home in Thailand).

We'll still let you cruise the corn in your "fancy-pants" cars, but wouldn't you rather slum it with us knuckle-draggers?

Last edited by Stan Galat

Tom:  Welcome to the "Gravel Rash Club".  I only rode Trials bikes (Bultaco, Penton and Greeves) but got wrecked enough in the woods that I never wanted a road motorcycle.  Each crash made my Mom's hair turn a little more white.  Then I started riding road bicycles and got really wrecked a couple of times - ya can't win.

I'm intrigued by the cruise control - is it an electric actuator or a Subaru-style vacuum actuator (lucky you, if it is).  Been toying with installing one, but would need a non-vacuum version with the quad-carb setup most of us run.

Thanks.  Sounds like that will be a wonderful car for you!

Gordon, I have been doing some research on Cruise Controls and I think I can chip in here.

 The Subaru set up on Tom's car and my car as well is drive by wire.  That is the gas pedal is not attached to the throttle on the engine, as you know, but has a rheostat built into the pedal feeding the ECU.  So I believe Rostra who makes pretty much all Cruise controls has one that feed off the ECU directly and off the pedal and supposedly is a breeze to install. When I was a kid I did an install on my VW Rabbit, and it had the same controls as Tom has 35 years later ... go figure.  Of course they make a generic unit that has a servo that gets attached to a cable throttle on the engine itself and has two magnets attached to the drive shaft where a sensor is attached close by to measure the pulses.  Hope this helps. Ray

http://www.rostra.com

Lastly, they DO NOT need vaccuum to work all electric.

Last edited by IaM-Ray

Thanks, Ray - that's a help.  The servo version is the way to go on the aircooled cars,  since we don't have much of a strong vacuum signal for the thing to use, and we don't have all the data available from/to the ECU.  Since I'm sitting around with little I can do as I recover from this damn Pneumonia (been 7 weeks, now....it sucks!) I'll poke around on the web and see what I can find and maybe do some inquiries.  It's not like I need another gadget in the car, but I DO need something to do!  If I can find an electric servo version that can sample the tachometer signal as a reference (deleting the need for the axle magnets) I'll be in fat City!  Might be a fun project.

Thanks,  gn

A stock EJ25 revs to 6,250 RPM.  Here's a dyno sheet pulled from the interwebs:

EJ25_dyno_graph

My engine builder, Outfront Motorsports, told me I can safely rev it to 7.0 - 7.5k on occasion.  However, that's about where valve float sets in, so why risk that?  The torque curve peaks around 4,500 rpm and horsepower falls off a cliff over 6k.

In practice, I respect the redline, which is plenty tall.

Hope that's helpful.

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Robert M posted:
edsnova posted:

That tach. Hilarious. 

Great detail there and a beautiful car.

What's up with the tach Ed? I seem to be missing something.

I figured it was re-screened to match the Suby's range. Look at the white line sweep—mfg recommended working revs—so low, 2000 RPMs!

That's not like any 1950s Porsche tach. (Though I guess some 60s Porsches had a range like that).

Unless you're sporting a real Carrera 4-cam, your 356 Porsche tach does not tell you to keep going over 6,000. But 4-cam (or even 2-cam) Subarus? Yes, please.

My point was that the tach has been re-screened to be correct for with the engine. A really nice detail which few would notice. 

 

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  • tach from original
edsnova posted:
Robert M posted:
edsnova posted:

That tach. Hilarious. 

Great detail there and a beautiful car.

What's up with the tach Ed? I seem to be missing something.

I figured it was re-screened to match the Suby's range. Look at the white line sweep—mfg recommended working revs—so low, 2000 RPMs!

That's not like any 1950s Porsche tach. (Though I guess some 60s Porsches had a range like that).

Unless you're sporting a real Carrera 4-cam, your 356 Porsche tach does not tell you to keep going over 6,000. But 4-cam (or even 2-cam) Subarus? Yes, please.

My point was that the tach has been re-screened to be correct for with the engine. A really nice detail which few would notice. 

 

Good eye Ed. I looked at that a few times and missed it but now I see it.

The tach looks like a stock 356 Carerra tach - as Ed mentioned, probably from the early 60's.  They might have well left off the part below 4K - those engines didn't like it much down there, anyway, although the newer updates, lately, have made them nicely driveable.  And as Ed also mentioned, those engines would pull beyond the 7,500 limit.....They were beasts up in the stratosphere.  No wonder those little engines were beating cars with lots more zoom.

Here's a restored one from North Hollywood for sale at Pelican for $600.  

http://forums.pelicanparts.com...-356-tachometer.html

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

Bob M:  You probably got a bunch of different photos because they had tachs specific to different engines/cars.  The "Normal" engine (like in a 1,500 Cabriolet) was redlined around 4.5-5K, the "Super" around 5 - 5.5K and the "Super 90" around 5.5 - 5.8 (I think) at the start of the red zone.  That was because they were all pushrod engines and floated the push rods around those limits ("floating" meant that the rods pushed the valves open and the valve spring couldn't recover in time, so the engine essentially stops breathing while it's beating on the ends of the pushrods).

The 4-Cam engine, OTOH, drove the valve stems right off of the cams and could be pushed to a theoretical 10K rpm before the valves floated (although they never ran valve springs that strong and didn't seem to need them).  Because they could rev higher (and also because a lot of 4-cam buyers wanted to race them occasionally) the red line was moved up to the higher and wider range you see in the tach up above.

BTW: NASCAR engines used to be pushrod blocks, too, but they can rev them to 10,000+ rpm.  How dey do dat?  Well, there was one (and may still be the only one) company that produced valve springs for NASCAR engines.  They used some sort of secret technique for making and heat treating them to make them beefy enough to last through a 500 mile/lap race.  You can read a great article on that, here.

I figured the differences were due to the different configurations but never really paid attention to it. I'm sure I've even looked at several tachs and they were possibly different but never noticed. I even went out to my garage to look at my tach because I couldn't even say what the redline and shift points were on mine.

It's a lot like being asked to describe in detail the differences in paper money. Most people can tell you who the presidents are that are on the face but couldn't even tell you what's on the back or even on the rest of the front. We see paper money every day but don't notice the differences. Same with the tachs I guess.

http://www.allthetests.com/qui...889/US-Currency-Quiz

Ed, you and your sweet little Soobie are just missing out on what is really fun here. Yes you have ft-lbs galore wherever and whenever you want, and yes you have heat, and yes you have reliability, and yes blah blah blah. To me the only instrument worth looking at is the tach.  And not shifting?? Where's the fun in that?  Keeping a NA, no variable valve timing, no ECU, no FI, four barrel Weber engine living on its power/torque peak and scaring the wits out of all the little children is at the core of the Madness, or so sayeth I.

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