Yesterday I went for a drive up in the mountains. No crazy driving, just a nice cruise. Round trip was in the 100 miles range, and I went through over a liter of oil. I'm calling my mechanic on Tuesdays to make an appointment to have the engine pulled. I'm betting it's valve guides.
Stay tuned.
Bummer, Ron! I hope your mechanic can get it all sorted out for your peace-of-mind when driving your car this summer!
Ron:
I had super-bad valve guides on a 2.3 litre Ford engine a long time ago (early (mid-1970's) 2.3's were notorious for failing valve guides at about 75,000 miles). Lots of smoke, especially on deceleration and (somewhat less smoke) sitting at idle after decellerating. Less smoke (very little, actually) on acceleration.
Went through 1 US quart every 300 miles.
The smoke smell at idle was not just oil smoke smell. Mixed with fuel it was a slightly sweeter smell and the smoke was not quite as white as oil smoke.
Got a lot of interesting looks at stop lights!!
I had super-bad valve guides on a 2.3 litre Ford engine a long time ago (early (mid-1970's) 2.3's were notorious for failing valve guides at about 75,000 miles). Lots of smoke, especially on deceleration and (somewhat less smoke) sitting at idle after decellerating. Less smoke (very little, actually) on acceleration.
Went through 1 US quart every 300 miles.
The smoke smell at idle was not just oil smoke smell. Mixed with fuel it was a slightly sweeter smell and the smoke was not quite as white as oil smoke.
Got a lot of interesting looks at stop lights!!
I had a friend follow me, in his Miata, and afterward he found tiny drops of oil on his front hood. He said there wasn't any noticeable smoke, but there was a strange smell.
Had the same circumstances with my 912E years ago. Valve guides, replaced twice by a dealer in Anaheim. Second time was the charm.
Good luck!
Good luck!
My IM goes into the shop this week. Best guess from my engine builder is the rings haven't seated because I used synthetic oil after breaking the engine in with Brad Penn break-in oil. He speculates that the cylinder walls are now glazed and the rings will never seat.
We'll see when they get the engine apart.
We'll see when they get the engine apart.
I can't speak for your engine but I just broke in my 3rd Harley engine on full syn oil. Under 2500 rpm and over 2000 rpm for 500 miles is a pain. But it just made a 2200 mile run to Key West and back average speed about 75 - 80 and no oil usage. Done right you can break in an aircooled engine on Synthetic oil. Last 2 motors hade over 80K miles one each one when sold neither used oil.
Ron, I find your your mechanics assessment of your engine problem a bit confusing.
First off, he doesn't have x-ray vision and second, he's narrowing his scope of vision to rings and cylinders. Based on an earlier statement you made, I'd suspect the valve guides first but wouldn't limit myself to solely a cylinder head problem.
If the cylinders are glazed, then all that's needed it to lighly hone them and scuff up the rings with 1000 grit paper.
(Don't let him talk you into a new set of pistons and cylinders)
If the guides are bad then have them replaced. He doesn't even have to split the case to do either job so it shouldn't take but about 1 hour of labor to hone the cylinders and about 1 hour of labor to remove and replace the heads. Down time will be the machine shop doing the cylinder heads if needed. He'll probably want 2 hours to remove and replace the engine. (Yeah, I know it can be faster but he's working hourly)
First off, he doesn't have x-ray vision and second, he's narrowing his scope of vision to rings and cylinders. Based on an earlier statement you made, I'd suspect the valve guides first but wouldn't limit myself to solely a cylinder head problem.
If the cylinders are glazed, then all that's needed it to lighly hone them and scuff up the rings with 1000 grit paper.
(Don't let him talk you into a new set of pistons and cylinders)
If the guides are bad then have them replaced. He doesn't even have to split the case to do either job so it shouldn't take but about 1 hour of labor to hone the cylinders and about 1 hour of labor to remove and replace the heads. Down time will be the machine shop doing the cylinder heads if needed. He'll probably want 2 hours to remove and replace the engine. (Yeah, I know it can be faster but he's working hourly)
Didn't all of this happen back in February ! ? ! ? Still a problem? Nothing been done since THEN? Engine in or out? Builder contacted or not?
Reading the progress on this thread is like watching PBS, everything seems to move at glacier speed . . .
Reading the progress on this thread is like watching PBS, everything seems to move at glacier speed . . .
You guys in Duxbury watch PBS??
I thought all you got over there was the Bloomberg channels.....
I'm with Larry - still putting my money on valve guides, but even if it's glazed cylinders it's, like, an afternoon to fix it. The long time is wait time for the head guy to do his valve guie fix.
gn
I thought all you got over there was the Bloomberg channels.....
I'm with Larry - still putting my money on valve guides, but even if it's glazed cylinders it's, like, an afternoon to fix it. The long time is wait time for the head guy to do his valve guie fix.
gn
The long wait has been my fault. I needed to put some miles on the car, but the weather has been so crappy I've seldom had the chance to take her out for a drive.
He's guessing at what is wrong, but admits it could be a problem with the way the rings were installed, or the valve guides. I'll probably know more this week.
He's guessing at what is wrong, but admits it could be a problem with the way the rings were installed, or the valve guides. I'll probably know more this week.
You honestly shouldn't put ANY more miles on the engine if it IS a question of the rings rather than the seals. You'll only make things worse and be at risk for additional damage. Honestly.
The engine is already out.
Remember this point,when you have stroker motors,and if you have any type of aftermarket ratio rockers,etc.,you have the get the valve geometry setup correctly.If the contact surface on the valve tips are too far off to one side,then you will have excessive side loading on the valve guides and this will wear them out prematurely.
basically the tips of the rockers,if setup correctly will be pushing the valves down,and not sideways/down.
basically the tips of the rockers,if setup correctly will be pushing the valves down,and not sideways/down.
Looks like a small piece broke off one of the rings in #4 cylinder. Luckily, the piece stayed in the groove.
WHOA ! ! ! So lucky that it stayed in place.
GREAT catch, that could have caused horrible damage.
Luck,
TC
GREAT catch, that could have caused horrible damage.
Luck,
TC
that's great news Ron.
is the cylinder salvageable?
is the cylinder salvageable?
Well, she's back on the road. I've put about 300 miles on the engine using break-in oil and I'm ready to switch to regular oil.
A few days ago I took the IM for a cruise up into the mountains. While cruising on the flats, at around 65 mph, I noticed the oil temperature gauge moved up to 200 degrees. On the last long hill, before I turned around, the gauge came very close to 240 degrees! A quick examination showed me that the external oil cooler fan was not coming on.
After spending an hour or so trying to source the problem I discovered that the fuse had not been put in all the way. After pushing it (considerable force needed) I took her for a test drive and EUREKA the fan came on. Now, the gauge stays at 180.
I'm also slowly figuring out me CB fuel injection. I've changed a few thing here and there (on my third map) and the car is running well. She still doesn't start, cold or hot, the way I want her to.
In a week I'll be taking her on a 1000 mile road trip.
Fingers crossed.
A few days ago I took the IM for a cruise up into the mountains. While cruising on the flats, at around 65 mph, I noticed the oil temperature gauge moved up to 200 degrees. On the last long hill, before I turned around, the gauge came very close to 240 degrees! A quick examination showed me that the external oil cooler fan was not coming on.
After spending an hour or so trying to source the problem I discovered that the fuse had not been put in all the way. After pushing it (considerable force needed) I took her for a test drive and EUREKA the fan came on. Now, the gauge stays at 180.
I'm also slowly figuring out me CB fuel injection. I've changed a few thing here and there (on my third map) and the car is running well. She still doesn't start, cold or hot, the way I want her to.
In a week I'll be taking her on a 1000 mile road trip.
Fingers crossed.
1000 mile road trip? No one should have that much fun! Enjoy.
Break in oil is also known for running a little hotter as well.
Mike
Mike
I do a road trip once a year with my two Miata buddies. I usually take my Miata, but this year I'm taking the IM.