Bill- Did my pics not come through at all?
And Bob- Sounds like you're coming down with a bad case of sinceitsapartitis...
ALB posted:Bill- Did my pics not come through at all?
And Bob- Sounds like you're coming down with a bad case of sinceitsapartitis...
I can't see them on my MAC.
The photo titles show up when you run the curser over them, but all you see is "Image Not Found"
I can see them now. It looks like the pics showed in your original post. Then for some reason you made a duplicate post and it was in the second post your photos didn't show up Al. It's all good now though.
Duplicate post? I'll go look...
PS- Robert- can you read the dimensions?
Yes , they're readable...thanks! Now I have to convert from metric.
And I've been called a lot worse names than Robert.
ALB:
Yup I caught a case of that dreaded disease. Went from $55.00 initial cost, with shipping to well over $1,000.00 pretty quickly. I'm still looking at upgrades and changes. The madness has me tightly in it's grip.
I just ordered the ones Glenn has, powder coated $29.00...time is money!
Bill:
Have you been running without them on a sidewinder type set up for a while?
Bob, famous last words: "that should be no big deal."
Will:
Hope springs eternal!
I do have to figure out how to get them over the exhaust and under the top tins. The oil cooler is mounted on the front of the firewall because they couldn't find a more difficult place to access.
This is killing me, but I am considering going to braided lines..........please, stop me before it's too late!
If you're seriously considering braided ss oil lines, Bob, think about spending the extra for the teflon lined material. It is more expensive, I know (I believe the ends have to be "swagged" (sp?) on so they're not do it yourself), but the rubber lined hoses don't necessarily last for forever and can "swell" shut; then you're buying the material again (and hopefully you've figured this out before it's cost the engine as well).
Sinceitsapartitis is a very infectious (and costly) disease!
Bob, trust me, if you build your own lines you need these: http://www.amazon.com/Koul-Too...;keywords=koul+tools
Amazon sells a set of 3 sizes but you can get just one for $30. Wish I would've had them Friday, they would've saved a ton of time and injuries from stainless slivers!
Their video ends with a fellow holding them saying: "Get these, and you wont' need these!"
(he's holding a box of band-aids in his other hand)
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ALB
If this keeps up I'll be living under a highway overpass and telling people incoherent stories about the Speedster that took me down.
Bob, about a year or two. Most of my commute is 15 min here 30 min there...CHT temps in the low 300's
BobG posted:ALB
If this keeps up I'll be living under a highway overpass and telling people incoherent stories about the Speedster that took me down.
I know, Bob. 
Just think how much more it would be to play if these were real P cars!
ALB posted:BobG posted:ALB
If this keeps up I'll be living under a highway overpass and telling people incoherent stories about the Speedster that took me down.
I know, Bob.
Conversely though if these were real P Cars we wouldn't be talking about all these crazy mods either. As P Car purists there'd only be one way to do them and deviations wouldn't be allowed.
Robert M posted:ALB posted:BobG posted:ALB
If this keeps up I'll be living under a highway overpass and telling people incoherent stories about the Speedster that took me down.
I know, Bob.
Conversely though if these were real P Cars we wouldn't be talking about all these crazy mods either. As P Car purists there'd only be one way to do them and deviations wouldn't be allowed.
And we'd be scared to take them out of the garage....
BobG posted:Will:
Hope springs eternal!
I do have to figure out how to get them over the exhaust and under the top tins. The oil cooler is mounted on the front of the firewall because they couldn't find a more difficult place to access.
This is killing me, but I am considering going to braided lines..........please, stop me before it's too late!
Bob,
I'd do this: mock up your oil lines where you'd want them, reusing your old ends and your old hose. If the old hose is cut, get some cheap heater hose or cut up an old garden hose, but get your lengths perfect. Don't let the hoses touch anything (if possible), but if you need to anchor them-- anchor them securely to the frame of your car or some other very stout surface (sheet-metal is the least desirable) with flexible conduit clamps from Lowes or Home Depot (no Menards in FL. Pity, that). Whatever you do, leave a finger's width of space between the hose and any exhaust pipe. This may be tricky, but if it's close-- don't count on the hoses staying "just so". If you need to anchor them to each other, zip-ties will work but they are pretty inelegant. A hose clamp works but is ugly. Do what it takes-- just keep them tight to each other-- movement will create a rub-point.
Once you've got it, take the lines off and take them to a hydraulic hose shop. Get some hoses like Glenn Ring's picture made for you. Take Al's advice and get teflon lined if you can. The only advantage to buying 50 ends and building your own is being able to take them apart and shorten them (again and again and again) if you have 49 hoses (I'm dry-sumped. I do). If you are sure of your lengths, getting the crimped (swaged) ends is way, way better. They'll never come apart, and they'll never leak.
For a couple of hoses, you'll end up with $100. Don't flinch-- it's worth it. If you do your own Earls (et al) hoses, you'll end up with more than that in them, for certain.
It's 100% worth the money. Peace of mind is worth what it costs.
where can i buy or order these jet nuts. bill
Thanks, Stan.
Right now the hoses are just that, hoses, that have served well and are mounted as you have suggested at all points. Trouble free and no leaks, ever. I will mock up as you suggest once I get the new tins in and am able to do the final install on the exhaust. No sense in "guesstimating" on the routing or the length.
Have to check on Wolfgang's end of the bay for a good shop. My end is bait store/gun shop combos and kayak rental companies, and a an off road monster truck repair shop.
I second everything Stan said. You can do your own, but the cost will end up close to having a hose shop make them and the aggravation level will be high.
Google "Hydraulic Hoses" and you should get a few in your area. Go check 'em out, show them the car, tell them exactly what you want and ask what it'll cost. The cheapest is not necessarily the best. Look at their shop for neatness and make sure the guy knows what he's talking about.
If you can mock up your hose lengths with garden hose or equivalent, all the better (it's cheap) but I would suggest getting the various assemblies to be hosed in place, get the hose ends you think you'll need from the hose place (so you'll know how far into the fitting the hose must go for length) and assemble them to where they need to be. Once everything mechanical is on there, THEN measure the hose lengths. You could also roughly measure the lengths you need (I use a coat-hanger, bent to the hose route needed for the centerline length) and get lengths of the hose you'll be using cut a couple or three inches too long and then zero in on the correct length with the hoses under the car - they probably won't charge you to re-cut them to length. If you have rotational-specific fittings (like a 45 or 90 degree end) mark the fitting sleeve AND the hose in the same place to get the angles right for when they swedge them on. Once they're on there, that's it and those stainless braided hoses don't like to be twisted later on.
When I did the filter/cooler on Pearl I did 4 hoses and it came to about $150 bucks. The guy did a terrific job and was really patient with me. Years later, I moved the filter under there and needed two new hoses and found another place (we had moved). Same deal as above and that guy was great, too.
Bob, misery loves company...so save me a spot with you under the overpass.
Carl:
I already have a discarded refrigerator shipping box with your name on it. Move in ready and in an elevated overpass the gators can't get to.
Thanks, Gordon. That's great advice. I'm really not worried about the price, I just want to get the car back on the road. Right now we are getting hammered by the fringes of a tropical storm, so I'm not losing any drive time at the moment.
One thing that gets missed when adding a full flow assembly (and a cooler as well) is looking at the fittings themselves; if you look inside, some angled and 90' pieces (especially when assembled) can be quite restrictive, and a little careful work with a dremel can provide better oil flow to the bearings and lifter bores (and everywhere else). Increasing flow downstream of the pump makes the pump itself more efficient, and is easier on the drive tang. I've seen a guy drill out straight fittings where the actual passageway is pretty small (in comparison to the hose it's used for), and I've known guys to test assemble and then take apart fittings to be able to clearance an area. Less friction may even mean a temp drop of a degree or 2 (not that you'd notice it with the equipment we have).
A little nit-picky (ok, I'll call it what it is, positively anal!) and you may not be able to measure or see a direct result for the work done, but, like the Hoover mods, any time you are able to improve the lubrication system and/or drop operating temps it translates to happier running and ultimately, longer engine life. Al
So the new sled tins and industrial tins showed up today. Nice quality, good paint.
Seems they and the exhaust don't exactly match up without some bending and cutting of the tins.
Passenger side is done, drivers side is gonna take some work and some heavy tin snipping.
That pretty much blocks out my Saturday morning!
BobG posted:I went ahead and ordered both the sled tins and the industrial tins from Aircooled.net. After cleaning the old sled tins this morning they are just not in good shape, paint peeling and bent from when I essentially pried them off yesterday. I'll keep them, but might as well start fresh. I will have to do some minor straightening on the tins they attach to at the rear of the engine coming down from the back of the shroud, but that should be no big deal.
Thanks, ALB, Glenn and Greg.
Some day this summer I'll be done with this!
Bob, again I have to remind you of your quote: ..."that should be no big deal."
Thanks, Will. I continue to delude myself, routinely.
Decided to work on the caps for the air vents on the shroud and the corresponding holes on the breastplate.
$1.58 for two jars of Gerber pureed pears.
Kept the lids, tossed the pears. They are almost an exact fit for the ports on the shroud. A little primer, a little paint and something to seal them on with and that should do it.
Cut the tin to cover the holes in the breastplate tin. Primer, paint and mount with sheet metal screws and some sealant.
These are the easiest things I've done on the car.
Keep your fingers crossed, Will!
BobG posted:They are almost an exact fit for the ports on the shroud.
Well, that's an interesting way of doing it, Bob! I was thinking, you know, more along the lines of finding a mom in the neighborhood and sweet-talking her out of a couple of lids, but your way works too
My solution is two cleaned up lids from dog food cans 'pasted' to the underside of the tin with JB KwikWeld.
The lids have circular embossed rings, and actually look rather neat.
ALB:
We don't have anybody on our street with babies or I'd have been knocking on a door.
Glenn:
That's it. Just painted satin black.
Great idea, Carl. I may do that instead!
BobG posted:ALB:
We don't have anybody on our street with babies or I'd have been knocking on a door.
I know; you do what you gotta do.
And yeah, Carl, I would have screwed them down, but your way would look better! Yoda out.
well, back in my day, lids referred to something entirely different...
and no way was Gerber selling THAT stuff!