$20.00
...for Panama Red?
such a deal!
Maui-Wowie, Kauai-Electric, Kona-Gold and one of my favorites...Zwazi-Loa,
If I were starting this from scratch I would have fabricated my own tins using ALB's plans, then modified them, then primered and painted them.
I spent about $45.00 on the tins from aircooled .net and have set about modifying the daylights out of them. I could have spent no more than $20.00, avoided the 3 day wait on shipping and have this finished.
Oh yeah........SHUT UP WILL!
BobG posted:If I were starting this from scratch I would have fabricated my own tins using ALB's plans, then modified them, then primered and painted them.
I spent about $45.00 on the tins from aircooled .net and have set about modifying the daylights out of them. I could have spent no more than $20.00, avoided the 3 day wait on shipping and have this finished.
Oh yeah........SHUT UP WILL!
With the way some exhausts fit (A1 sidewinders), please take note of Bob's first sentence. Doing the first (and maybe 2nd) mock ups out of cardboard means way less work to get it right.
Oh, I forgot- way to go, Bob!
PS- Bob- some pics would be nice...
I'll post some in a couple days.
Should have the car back on the road end of this week so Wolfgang and I can take it to out local VW club annual meeting.
As I have gone from a 1 1/2" system with heat exchangers and a Monza type four tip exhaust to a 1 5/8" Sidewinder type exhaust with J tubes, no heat exchangers mated to a 2110 stroker with a mild cam, should I expect to have to fiddle with jetting or other issues on the carbs or issues with the ignition system due to the exhaust upgrade?
Forewarned is forefrustrated!
You may end up a step richer, which will mean re-adjusting the carbs as well. Additionally, play with the timing to see if it likes it best where it is or a couple of degrees either way.
PS- Btw, I don't get credit for drawing up those plans for the industial tins; I lifted them off the Samba (it's amazing what you can find there if you know where to look!)
You found em' you shared em', you get the credit for letting me and anybody else on the site have them! Much appreciated.
Looks like running the oil lines down to the block may be a little tricky with this new exhaust.
I am running rubber lines and they are likely going to be pretty close to the exhaust itself. Currently the two lines are joined together with a fiberglass looking wrap material held on with wire at the point where they were close to contacting the old exhaust. That has served well.
I am considering a product called Fibersleeve this time around. It slips over the lines and is a fiberglass looking woven material with an outer silicone like heat resistant cover.
Anybody have experience with this stuff or have another idea?
I've heard the stuff is good (strictly 2nd, 3rd hand info). I know you know it, Bob, but it bears repeating- the oil lines should not touch the exhaust. Do whatever you have to do. Al
I had an oil line get too close to A1, one second all is good, next second there is a huge ball of smoke, 5qts dumping on highway, no fire and I shut it off when the smoke ball erupted..usual wait for tow truck...I think I put SS braided lines on after that..
Sparkplu
g insulators
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Thanks, ALB!
Bill, the picture really helps! I assume that is the setup on your car, and that it has worked well. Similar to what is on mine now. Thanks.
Correct. Just clip off the wire ring in the insulator and work it out first (toss it)
I hate to have to put the tins back in. It would be nice to see that snake collection every time I pop the bonnet!
However, I'll just have to settle for looking from behind or underneath.
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Looks great, Bob. Now get the rear tin back in and drive it! Al
Still have the oil lines to route, ground strap has to be re routed as well. Check all the connections, bolts, nuts, electrical. Drop it, add fluids and check for leaks. Put in the new battery, install the cover plate behind the seats, install the seats, start her up.
Then, if no leaks, jack her back up, install the camber compensator (it block the drain plug for the trans fluid) and get back on the road.
Almost there. If no more interruptions (there have been dozens), I will be driving tomorrow.
BobG posted:Almost there. If no more interruptions (there have been dozens), I will be driving tomorrow.
My problem has never been interruptions - it's motivation for me!
crhemi (Bill) posted:Sparkplu
g insulators
I just bought 6 feet of this stuff. I'm going to cover my oil lines that run in and around my header pipes.
BobG posted:Still have the oil lines to route, ground strap has to be re routed as well. Check all the connections, bolts, nuts, electrical. Drop it, add fluids and check for leaks. Put in the new battery, install the cover plate behind the seats, install the seats, start her up.
Then, if no leaks, jack her back up, install the camber compensator (it block the drain plug for the trans fluid) and get back on the road.
Almost there. If no more interruptions (there have been dozens), I will be driving tomorrow.
At Merklin Motorworks that'd be about two hours worth of work.
GET BACK IN THERE AND FINISH THE JOB MAN!!!!
Where did you get the stuff, Rusty? The wrap I have on mine is black and funky. I am working on the routing now. It may be an issue of changing the fittings from the block to ones with a different angle to get clearance. The ones I have come straight out of the block, no bends.
Also, the wrap on mine is held on with wire instead of zip ties. I assume that is because of the risk of the ties melting under the heat. I considered the fire resistant hose covering but I am tired of waiting for parts in the mail.
I'm sure there will be a phase two to this as I find stuff that I'm not happy with........also phases three, four, ad infinitum............
Exactly, Bob. I'm really hoping that it goes easy on Spyder #2. I would hope I've learned a little after doing things three or four times on my first car......
I'm doin' it Merklin.
You could have built your own space shuttle in the time it has taken me.
Of course if I had planned better, gotten some physical help and not been interrupted daily, plus made all the decisions and purchases at the beginning, I'd be done now with round 1.
Danny, You are light years ahead of me in knowledge and skills. I'm pullin' for you!
It just never ends.
I have a CB Performance Maxi Pump 3 full flow oil pump. The angle of the fittings for connecting the oil lines are at about 7:00 o'clock. The bottom one is so close to the new header that it is impossible to attach the oil line and not come into contact with the header itself. The top one is not much better. The first picture is shot from the left rear of the engine bay and you can see how little clearance there is.
The second pic just provides more definition, shot from the drivers side of the bay.
The third pic is from the drivers side and shows the best route I can determine for the oil lines to run . Tight, but I can get the lines through without touching the exhaust, and I will wrap them with a heat resistant material.
The clear issue is getting the correct angle on those fittings.
What I need are 1/2" hose barb X 1/4" -18NPT bent at about 33 degrees, I think. 45 degrees is too much I think. Or I might have to mix the angles for access.
Living in Redneckia, Florida, finding specialized parts proves to be a tad difficult, but the fishing is quite good.
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Any chance you could just source those fittings from NAPA? Maybe make the angle on the top fitting different than the bottom one to get more room?
I'm no expert on anything related to our cars but just thought I'd ask.
Put 45* fittings instead of the straight barbed fitting in the first pic. That should clear.
Robert, I think I'm going to by a pair of every angle I can find and start putting them together. What I don't want to do is swap out a perfectly good oil pump. Besides, I'd have to pull the header to get to it. I'm running out of steam on this whole project.
I probably ought to mock up some profiles of fittings at various angles and see what will work. Or I could just go check my crab traps and catch some speckled sea trout.....
BobG posted:Robert, I think I'm going to by a pair of every angle I can find and start putting them together. What I don't want to do is swap out a perfectly good oil pump. Besides, I'd have to pull the header to get to it. I'm running out of steam on this whole project.
I agree wholeheartedly Bob. I wouldn't pull off the header either or remove the oil pump. Just get those fittings off and experiment with some angled ones. You could maybe use a 45* on the top and a 33* on the bottom so that you won't have to angle the oil lines toward the back of the car otherwise they'll get in the way of something else.
You were going to do braided lines. If you go to NAPA, they'll be able to make 1/2" hydraulic lines in a braided material, with angle ends. They may have what you need in stock.
Alternately, you can buy ends from Summit Racing. They've got 27 options of 8AN ends in 30* bends, for about $20/per. You can mix and match brands of braided line and fittings, should you so desire.
NAPA is going to be less hassle and less money.
BobG posted:Where did you get the stuff, Rusty? The wrap I have on mine is black and funky.
Take your pick! I found a bunch of that stuff on amazon. Here's a link:
Stan Galat, '05 IM, 2276, Nowhere, USA posted:You were going to do braided lines. If you go to NAPA, they'll be able to make 1/2" hydraulic lines in a braided material, with angle ends. They may have what you need in stock.
Alternately, you can buy ends from Summit Racing. They've got 27 options of 8AN ends in 30* bends, for about $20/per. You can mix and match brands of braided line and fittings, should you so desire.
NAPA is going to be less hassle and less money.
Bob - Stan is right. The braided lines are doable and Napa has the line in bulk and fittings. They usually will cut the lines for you if you give them the lengths. With that header I would think you would want the braided lines anyway.
I think you are looking for something like this:
https://www.summitracing.com/p...um-220854b/overview/
I considered braided, but I thought I could use what I have, plug and play and get the car on the road this weekend for an event. Braided in a week or two. Now, I'm not going to make my time frame anyway, so I might as well go to braided.
Thanks, Rusty!
Bend a coat hanger 45* at one end and see if that clears...
Back to the zip ties - Harbor Freight has metal ones.
So does Home Depot
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The plastic zip ties show no signs of deformity from heat. As long as they're not touching the pipes you should be fine. I had planned on getting metal ones but see no need...
crhemi (Bill) posted:The plastic zip ties show no signs of deformity from heat. As long as they're not touching the pipes you should be fine. I had planned on getting metal ones but see no need...
Nylon cable ties won't deform, they'll just get brittle as they dry out from the heat (Nylon gets strength and flexibility from the water it has absorbed after it's molded.). How long before they break will depend on how much the hoses are moving and twisting around.
If you've got a bag of nylon zip ties that are brittle, stick them in a ziplock bag with some water for 2 days to bring them back to life.