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Got bored last week so I pulled my engine out again (Twelfth time), put it on the stand so I could play with it easier. Replaced the fan shroud with a non heater one as well as the rear apron with no heater hose holes. Installed the new Vintage Speed throttle linkage, replace the fan/alternator cover with a cast aluminum one and re-routed the plug wires thru the same metal loom I had before but now modified to go on top of the alternator. That big engine-turned aluminum bar is my traction bar which I made last year or so to control wheel hop. Everything shined up real nice now.

I'm ordering a MaxJax two post lift tomorrow. I'm just getting tired of crawling and rolling around under cars any more. Plus you never have all the tools with you when you get down under there do you.  I'll install the engine when the lift is ready to use.    Enjoy the photo's.............Cheers to you all.........Bruce

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Will....I haven't put the motor back in yet so I don't know if the linkage will perform like I want but I do expect it to be better than the lousy hex-bar junk I took off. By the way, my carbs are reversed (Idle jets on the inside) and the linkage installed fine. I did however, have to shorten the rods a little. The slip fit of the linkage at the carbs is what sold me. That isolated idle issues totally from throttle position synchronization. Do you use the the throttle bell crank return spring on your car ? It seems way too stiff when added to the throttle return springs on the carb throttle shafts.  Overall, the VS linkage is a precision piece of work...just what I like !...........Bruce

Craig....My car is nearly the same color red. It's the red used on a Miata.

Stan...Yeah...It was fun weaving it in and around the headers and up to meet those two 2" square tubes on each side of the engine compartment. The rubber bushings (Durameter hardness 55) out on the ends are on the top and bottom of the bar tips were from Summit Racing. A 3/8"X5 1/2" bolt hangs down from the inside the engine compartment to truss everything up snugly to those 2" x 2" square tubes. Those 3  inserts on the back of the universal engine case for a type 3 were a shoe in for connecting the bar to the engine.

Thank You Al......As I recall you thought it needed more lightening holes ? Or was that Gorden ?

Bill......The Manifolds are from CB and called space savers. With these it is necessary to turn the carbs around and that's pretty easy. One of the throttle control arms and stop screw has to be swapped to the other end of the carb so that there are throttle control arms on both carbs facing the rear of the engine , allowing the throttle linkage to be seen and connected. This means that the throttle return spring on one carb is on the front side of the engine and the other is on the rear.  Now the idle jets are more accessible and able to be seen facing the fan shroud and not the side firewalls. This  whole process makes the engine nearly 2 " narrower and allows the entire engine assembly to be easily installed without any tricky maneuvering.............Bruce

aircooled posted:

...Do you use the the throttle bell crank return spring on your car ? It seems way too stiff when added to the throttle return springs on the carb throttle shafts.  Overall, the VS linkage is a precision piece of work...just what I like !...........Bruce

Bruce,

You will like the linkage, smooth as silk.  I thought the same about the return spring.  However, it is not so stiff once it is connected to the gas pedal and you're using your foot.  I chose to use mine for a smooth, positive and balanced return of the linkage.  

James

Stan Galat posted:

Bruce,

You and I are the only guys I've ever seen who built a rear cradle to hang the back of the motor, Type 3 style. I had two: one that was obscenely heavy, and one made of AL square tubing. I'm presently running neither, but I still love the idea.

What are you using for rear mounts?

I've put in a rear cradle mount too, Stan but it shouldn't be counted as it's not aircooled. At any rate, here's a pic from the lower rear right quarter. 1/4" steel on mine and I could have drilled more holes. The upright parts on each side go up to rubber bushings which are in turn bolted to the rear frame rails. I used the fore and aft parts of a  "Small Car" small car mount which provided a substantial mounting situation for the Soob engine. I've since improved the ratty wiring in the photo.....

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Last edited by David Stroud IM Roadster D
David Stroud posted:
ALB posted:

The mount looks good, David! And just so you know, aluminum is 40% of the weight of steel (and that's before you drill any holes!). It's not much, but a couple pounds is a couple pounds. Could be a good winter project...

Got me another winter project, thanks Al.

Speaking of, did he ever get the engine running?

Stan Galat posted:
David Stroud posted:
ALB posted:

The mount looks good, David! And just so you know, aluminum is 40% of the weight of steel (and that's before you drill any holes!). It's not much, but a couple pounds is a couple pounds. Could be a good winter project...

Got me another winter project, thanks Al.

Speaking of, did he ever get the engine running?

It wouldn't start on Sunday, Stan and he's having a mechanic look at it asap. I sent you and email on that....hope you got it ok. I'm starting more and more to lean towards the Verner 5 cyl radial but they're berzerk expensive.  I'll get back to you again when I hear more. cheers....

Last edited by David Stroud IM Roadster D

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