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Well, Back in August i picked up a Speedster replica that had been sitting in the woods for around 20 years with no top. Amazingly the floor is still in there. I'm not sure who the body manufacturer was and not sure if there is a way to tell. The beetle engine is froze up as well. It will roll with ease though. I guess the first thing to do is pull the engine out and see why it froze up, maybe from sitting (i hope). The fuel tank smells awfull and will likely need replacing or maybe lining with a pour in liner....I could go on and on and on. I have some pics but i'm not computer savvy  enough to post them!!!

Russ

Oh yea, I'm glad i found this site!!!

    

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I am in the MD DC-Balto metro area.  SOunds like you have a hand full of things to tend to before you get even close to having a car.  There are air-cooled engine guys around who can help, both amateur from the SOC and professional.  Off hand, I'd say the engine will be a tear-down.  Best get it out and begin taking apart -- either you, or a competent shop.  If you can pull the spark plugs and douse the insides of the cylinders w/ WD-40, or a good rust disolver, and let that sit round for a day or so, and then see if the engine can be turned.  Most likely will be rusted rings.  Might be possible to get the top end rebuilt and not split the case, but just guessing here.

You have a lot in front of you, but the fun is in the journey, right??

And we need pics.

I love that Marvel Mystery Oil! It works great! I'm a certified GM tech but havn't ever been in a VW engine before. I'm also in the middle of an H1 Hummer replica that i built from square tubing and 14 gauge sheet metal so it will be a while before get the Speedster in the shop. I'm still going to try and get the engine out in the next few weeks and see whats up with it. I also have an 87 Buick Grand National to restore.....   

Hay David it's a Mystery lol. That used to be the best friend for a used car salesman. I would love to get my hands on an old Marvel carb to take it apart. Gas was not as pure as it is now due to the lead and it used to be added to help lube the parts and form a coating. Penetrating oils! heck lets burn some linseed oil and run a ballbearing down the pipe frame and it will never rust. I once tried 2 modern type penetrating oils on a frozen piston and nothing. I then i filled it with Marvel and the next day Voila!  Now If i could only use it on my shoulders back and knees i would be fifteen again.

I've been using Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) since the early 1960's (and I think it's been around since the 1920's), usually as a penetrating oil and/or sludge dissolver, but sometimes just as a lubricant, although I believe that the main component (that which carries the solvents and actual oil and makes up the majority of the ingredients - probably Acetone, but I don't know) evaporates over time (but then, so does WD-40 and that stuff isn't even much of a lubricant, either).  If you do a search on MMO you'll quickly find that the only people who know what's in it are the chemical engineers at Turtle Wax (the owner of MMO) and they're not telling.....Everyone else is just guessing, although I found a pretty extensive post from the RX7 club and another one from an off-roading group.  Everybody who's used the stuff, in cars, boats and airplanes, thinks it works great at loosening things, especially pistons and stuck valves.

I've found it pretty effective for dissolving sludge and the coke that gets deposited on valve's and their stems, and have used it more than once as Wolfgang described:  pour 4-5 ounces into a frozen cylinder (usually a vertical cylinder), go away for a couple of days and then try turning it over.  1-2 doses usually works.  I haven't filled the cylinder, but I suppose that would work as the stuff will leak out as the rings free up.

HOWEVER!  Since the VW engine is horizontal, I would tend to use a Seafoam Fogger instead of MMO because it would tend to get penetrating oil up to the top of the cylinder/rings and do a better job.  I would Fog it, come back in a day or so and fog it again, wait a day or so and then try turning it over.  Or, of the engine is out of the car, stand it on one side so the other cylinders are straight up and hit it with MMO, wait an hour or so and flip it and hit the other two cylinders with MMO.

For a pure penetrating oil to loosen rusted fasteners, I use a 50/50 mixture of automatic transmission fluid (pretty much any kind but I had a bunch of Ford left over from my Pickup Truck) and Acetone.  Works like a miracle if you're patient.

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

The good news Greenhornet, is the fact you are in the heart of SOC territory. There are plenty of good fellows out in your general area. That and, what, a 2-3 hour drive to Carlisle for the annual gathering. You have found the right site for all (or most of your answers). Hang in here, you seem to be willing to take on this project and though this one might take awhile, me thinks you will eventually have it on the road. Welcome to the madness.

Art said "On the driver's side door jamb there might be a ID plate."  Ha, my CMC id plate is still in safe with the certificate of origin and donor '71 bug title.  I was going to have the VW chassis number etched into the blank spot on it and put it under the front hood next to the donor chassis VW under hood id.  It it turns out to be a FF you can buy blank plates from the existing FF company.

There sure are a bunch of want-to-be auto mechanics on this web site.  I do enjoy reading the suggested "fixes" for frozen up engines.  Why would anyone chance starting up any engine which has sat up for many years and you don't know, for sure, it's true condition.  I would not waste my time pouring in any chemicals into the cylinder and just tear the thing apart, and a hammer and chisel will do wonders to remove rusted rings to cylinder walls.  Use a bigger hammer , if needed and a bigger chisel and I am not kidding.  Once the cylinder if split or cracked I promise you then you can remove the piston/cylinders from the frozen engine. Then tear it down completely. 

Guessing at what might be inside is like winning the Lotto, so one in a million chance there is not something which needs to be replaced on the bottom end.  But, not my money, so you guys use your MMO and other questionable stuff and hope the bottom end is good.  When the engine is started, you will finally know for sure.  Bet money no engine which has an unknown history or is frozen up will run very long, so again, do the right thing and have a complete professional tear down and rebuild done. 

---George K. ---

 

 

Russ,

You are are new on here and probably unaware of all the features offered here.

Should you encounter someone who is rude and condescending, you can block this person.   Click on his or her name in a post, upper left hand corner of post, next page pops up, and  on the right hand side "click" on BLOCK.  You'll never see his/hers posts again.  (It is reversible, should you feel guilty, LOL.)

I hope you never have to use this feature. Welcome to the madness!!!

Art

 

George4888 posted:

There sure are a bunch of want-to-be auto mechanics on this web site.  I do enjoy reading the suggested "fixes" for frozen up engines.  Why would anyone chance starting up any engine which has sat up for many years and you don't know, for sure, it's true condition.  I would not waste my time pouring in any chemicals into the cylinder and just tear the thing apart, and a hammer and chisel will do wonders to remove rusted rings to cylinder walls.  Use a bigger hammer , if needed and a bigger chisel and I am not kidding.  Once the cylinder if split or cracked I promise you then you can remove the piston/cylinders from the frozen engine. Then tear it down completely. 

Guessing at what might be inside is like winning the Lotto, so one in a million chance there is not something which needs to be replaced on the bottom end.  But, not my money, so you guys use your MMO and other questionable stuff and hope the bottom end is good.  When the engine is started, you will finally know for sure.  Bet money no engine which has an unknown history or is frozen up will run very long, so again, do the right thing and have a complete professional tear down and rebuild done. 

---George K. ---

 

 

George, I have requested your input on clutch disc selection a few times in another thread or two. Any chance you could give some advice on that earlier thread ?    With your street and Strip experience, I'm sure you have some valuable info.

The request was back under the Engines / Mechanical  category with Geroge 4888 as the title. Thanks.. 

Last edited by David Stroud IM Roadster D
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