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First i would like to say hello to all members i look forward to reading, learning and giving input when i can. I WILL be donating to the site for i feel it is important to keep sites like this up and running for the benefit of all and we should never forget that it does take money to keep it up. So my first thank you goes out to the owners and moderators of the site. I have built 1 speedster which ended up being stolen and purchased a second that was built already, but now taken apart and is the process of rebuild which i will be adding postings and questions about it. I am looking forward to this journey with all of you.

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Looks like I'm the first one to say Welcome To The Madness! Tell us about the Speedster you're rebuilding- does it have a shortened bug pan underneath or a custom frame? do you know which company originally built it? irs or swingaxle? what size engine? color? discs or drums? 4x130mm, 5x205 or 5x130 (Porsche) bolt pattern? what size rims and tires? anything else? And we'll need pics! Al

Compared with my first one i put together which was a cmc it handled like it was on rails and very tight and solid feeling at all speeds then it got stolen. This IM is a complete different animal on inner city speeds it was the same, but on the turnpike, 50mph+ the front end felt light, like it was floating and any 1/4 movement on the wheel and you where in the other lane. i tried alignments, steering boxes,even front spacers on the front top axle beam yet never fixed the issue. The engine would pull hard but at 60/70mph+ the engine needed another gear which i did not have. The vision is simple really. It will be black with saddle cream interior, full suspension front and rear. The engine and tranny will likely get the deep six. I hate having engine issues or having to adjust carbs every week so something rock solid with some bite is in order. So one step at a time first the frame, i had new pans welded in but I'm not to happy with the welding job so the fun begins.

Adrian, did you try caster shims under the bottom beam? Not having enough caster will create what you're describing, and if the front has been lowered by moving the center pivot point on the beams (either turned and welded or adjuster[s] installed) it may take 2 shims to get the caster back to where the car is safe at higher highway speeds. Shimming the top beam forward will make it worse!

 

IIrc, stock is about 3 degrees, and for your purposes aim for 4-6', keeping in mind that more caster does increase low speed (think parking lot) effort. 

 

Gene Berg Ent. sells them for $5 apiece, and others have them as well. If you check the alignment beforehand you'll know whether to buy 1 or 2 sets.

 http://www.geneberg.com/advanc...dge&x=10&y=7

 

Hope this helps. Al

 

 

caster shims

caster shim installed

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  • caster shims
  • caster shim installed

alb and wolf thanks. i have one set ALB but i think i had them on the top. Its been a while since i pulled them off, but i will look into it when I'm done with the center frame work. I know wolf i was checking out a great looking set of rims on a brunette bicycle  and the car some how popped out of auto pilot and a work van seemed to have been looking at the same rims and stopped lol. The old guy in his work van kept giving me napkins to wipe my tears saying she pedals by everyday. i have never taken that street again and my car seems to be grinning at me every morning.

It might take more than one set of shims.  Most of the those sold give something like 2.5-3 degrees of movement.   These cars need a total of 5.5-7 degrees to dial them in and make them handle positively down the highway - otherwise they wander a lot or have bump steer or both.

 

Bicycle rims are nice, but the view of a lady rider from her drafting angle isn't bad, either.......

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