I guess that I got one of the 2/10. It's too bad you didn't reach out, Dave. I'm pretty good at tweaking the Jamar.
Other way round: 8/10 were good according to Justin, which seems more realistic.
A lot of the stuff Gene mentioned was basically poor machine work that no shop with VW experience would do.
Im sorry, too. We could have had a blast tooling around the countryside. As many great roads as there are around here, I still miss having Harriman in my back yard.
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Thanks, Dave. I'm glad 8/10 are usually OK, it makes me feel good about re-using the case.
I spent a little time yesterday with an index drill set and some jets.
The jets from MY Webers that came off MY car were labeled 1.75 air and 1.30 main.
The ACTUAL sizes are 2.00 air and 1.40 main. Obviously Jake Raby drilled them out, and the spec sheet from Jake matches what I measured.
I swapped my air correctors into Mike's car and it leaned the transition a lot and slightly leaned WOT. It was almost but not quite enough.
So I took them out and drilled Mike's 1.75 airs. They are now at 2.05mm and almost perfect. WOT is now very stable at 12.5, transition is much cleaner but still a tad rich. The only thing left to try would be lowering the float level by 1mm, or increasing the airs to 2.15 or 2.20. I fear that I might have to open up the mains a touch though, so I think I'll let him drive it a while and fully break the motor in.
The motor when warm idles at 14.7, stays right around that at light throttle, richens a bit through the early transition(around 2000) then stabilizes around 2600-2800 rpm all the way up.
The motor runs smooth throughout the rev range, no burps, farts, or backfires. I'm calling it done, for now. Warm idle just under 1000rpm, very even and smooth.
He's gonna love it!
I drilled out the airs to 2.15mm(I don't have 2.20) and it smoothed it right out. I also bumped the timing up a little to about 33 degrees BTDC.
The motor absolutely loves the extra timing.
I also picked up the EMPI red urethane swaybar bushings and nice SS t-bolt clamps. My buddy Dennis at Vintage VW(body shop) supplied an OE Bug bar. I threw it in my vice and slipped a pipe over the ends and added a 20-30 degree bend so it clears the Vintage frame.
Then I corner-balanced the car BEFORE adding the swaybar. It was pretty far off on the diagonal weights, about 30 pounds different side-to-side. Some turning of spring perches, the car is now dead-on even. The car weighs 1485 with almost a full tank. F/R weight bias: 46/54 with the battery up front. Mine is 45/55.
It feels the same turning L/R and stays straight under heavy braking. The car tracks great and is very stable up to about 90, I didn't go faster(it ain't my car!). The caster, camber, and toe appears to be perfect.
Front: 1/8" total toe-in, -1.0 degree camber. Rear: 1/16" toe-in, -1.8 degrees camber. Caster is not adjustable, the beam is welded in a Spyder. The wheelbase is now even side-to-side, it was a 1/2" different so was dog-tracking a bit before.
Mike picked the car up yesterday and drove it an hour plus home. He's happy, and that's what matters.