New Owner

Forget the speedster. I just want the garage space.
-=theron

I've got these under cylinder tins and pulley tin. You will probably need a rear tin and then close the gap to the body with sheet metal.  You can have them for the cost of shipping and the normal SOC trade requirement of minor beer money. PM me if you want them.
-=theron

Welcome to the Madness, @vdubuslife!!!!  Looks like a nice basis for some customization.

Got a name we can call you by?

Here's what the CMC kit came with.  They were 1/8" fiberglass but you can make them from duct sheet metal or thin aluminum.  Most span the 1/2" remaining gap with a '72 up VW Bus H engine seal.   Cool beachy color!

Theron posted:

I've got these under cylinder tins and pulley tin. You will probably need a rear tin and then close the gap to the body with sheet metal.  You can have them for the cost of shipping and the normal SOC trade requirement of minor beer money. PM me if you want them.
-=theron

Hi Theron,

Yes, I would like to purchase the tins. I'll PM  you. Thank you!

Lane Anderson posted:

Welcome to the Madness, @vdubuslife!!!!  Looks like a nice basis for some customization.

Got a name we can call you by?

I was trying to come up with some witty handle/username. 

I came up with "George"  

WOLFGANG posted:

Here's what the CMC kit came with.  They were 1/8" fiberglass but you can make them from duct sheet metal or thin aluminum.  Most span the 1/2" remaining gap with a '72 up VW Bus H engine seal.   Cool beachy color!

Very cool! I'll start hunting around for the bus engine seal.

May I ask where you got the documentation from? Is the CMC kit build still available? 

That is a good looking Speedster.  I have to agree with @Theron about the garage space!

I’m new to this as well (18mo the or so).  I am running all of the sheet-metal in my 1993 VS with a Type IV flexible engine seal (not 100% on the actual terminology).

I haven’t had the slightest issues with heat no matter where I drive.  I recently bumped it up from 1600cc to 2180cc with thick wall cylinders and added a thin line sump, external cooler, and remote filter.  It actually runs cooler now.

Build manual? - supporting members can click onto the RESOURCES then LIBRARY link to download a couplemof versions of the CMC/FF build manuals aw well as wiring and VS Owners Manual.

Cool car! Love the Brooklands Aero Screens on the Speedster. 

vdubuslife posted:

WOLFGANG posted:

Here's what the CMC kit came with.  They were 1/8" fiberglass but you can make them from duct sheet metal or thin aluminum.  Most span the 1/2" remaining gap with a '72 up VW Bus H engine seal.   Cool beachy color!

Very cool! I'll start hunting around for the bus engine seal.

May I ask where you got the documentation from? Is the CMC kit build still available? 

WOLFGANG posted:

Build manual? - supporting members can click onto the RESOURCES then LIBRARY link to download a couplemof versions of the CMC/FF build manuals aw well as wiring and VS Owners Manual.

ps://www.speedsterowners.com/pages/library

Here's a link to the seal once you get it all done:

https://www.googleadservices.c...oQ9aACCDg&adurl=

edsnova posted:

Cool car! Love the Brooklands Aero Screens on the Speedster. 

I dig the separate wind screens too. My grandson said it looked my spectacles. 

Robert M posted:

vdubuslife posted:

WOLFGANG posted:

Here's what the CMC kit came with.  They were 1/8" fiberglass but you can make them from duct sheet metal or thin aluminum.  Most span the 1/2" remaining gap with a '72 up VW Bus H engine seal.   Cool beachy color!

Very cool! I'll start hunting around for the bus engine seal.

May I ask where you got the documentation from? Is the CMC kit build still available? 

WOLFGANG posted:

Build manual? - supporting members can click onto the RESOURCES then LIBRARY link to download a couplemof versions of the CMC/FF build manuals aw well as wiring and VS Owners Manual.

ps://www.speedsterowners.com/pages/library

Here's a link to the seal once you get it all done:

https://www.googleadservices.c...oQ9aACCDg&adurl=

Link copied to my build sheet. Thank you!

Thank you @Robert M : that is, in fact, the rear seal I use.

I have a CMC kit and I made templates out of cardboard then cut aluminum pieces to fit. I welded in tabs to the frame to support the aluminum sheets. I finished it with a bulb rubber seal all the way around ( not shown). I can shoot a final picture tomorrow if you want to see the finished product.

Drumagination posted:

I have a CMC kit and I made templates out of cardboard then cut aluminum pieces to fit. I welded in tabs to the frame to support the aluminum sheets. I finished it with a bulb rubber seal all the way around ( not shown). I can shoot a final picture tomorrow if you want to see the finished product.

 

This is just plain awesome!

Yes, I would really like to see how you finished it off. 

Thank you for sharing.

I did something similar to Dru on my CMC, and made the shields out of HVAC galvanized sheetmetal from a Heating/HVAC place.  Maybe $20 bucks worth of metal (actually, they gave it to me). 

I have two pieces, one a giant horse shoe attached from the bottom, going around the back of the engine and along the sides to the firewall where it attaches to the firewall via a rubber sheet that looks suspiciously like a rubber stair tread.  All that just screws into the CMC body frame with 10-32 screws around the engine and seals against the engine tin with Frost King door weatherstrip from Home Depot.  I do not need the "H" gasket from a beetle or bus - there are no gaps.

The second shield attaches to the top of that body frame and goes across the back of the engine compartment (near the tail lights), but it has a kip-up at each end to seal against the body just beyond the tail lights where there's a big hole.  

I have paper templates of them both, marked with bends and approximate hole locations.  I can send them for the cost of packaging and postage - $5 bucks and they're yours, just PM me and we'll chat.

Gordon's templates are a huge time saver I still use them. At Lowes, I buy a flat piece of 2 x 3' heat A/C duct.  If you lay it out right one $10 sheet will be enough. Rather than welding tabs to the 2 x 2 frame I use one 5/16 self tap hex head screw on the left and right side near the engine bay bulkhead. the rest I just use a few nickel size dabs of seam sealer to glue it in place. I fold in the edge about 3/4" on a 45 degree angle to match the engine tin then use a foam Bus H seal to fill in the 1/2 - 5/8" gap. If you need to pull the engine, I just pry the pieces apart with a paint scraper.

I still get a chuckle after seeing the engine comparment of a new VS years ago where Kirk's guys had used wood grain embosed aluminum siding for the engine tins.

That wasn't Kirk it was our beloved John Boy Steele's professional application. I recall years ago Bill Drayer ordered the engine seal tin kit and got woodgrain aluminum siding :~(    Attached are tin photos.

Body to engine filler tins

I have an original lower fiber sheet pc. shown in the assembly diagram that was on my Fiberfab Speedster that you can have if you want it for the cost of shipping let me know.

Gordon Nichols posted:

I did something similar to Dru on my CMC, and made the shields out of HVAC galvanized sheetmetal from a Heating/HVAC place.  Maybe $20 bucks worth of metal (actually, they gave it to me). 

I have two pieces, one a giant horse shoe attached from the bottom, going around the back of the engine and along the sides to the firewall where it attaches to the firewall via a rubber sheet that looks suspiciously like a rubber stair tread.  All that just screws into the CMC body frame with 10-32 screws around the engine and seals against the engine tin with Frost King door weatherstrip from Home Depot.  I do not need the "H" gasket from a beetle or bus - there are no gaps.

The second shield attaches to the top of that body frame and goes across the back of the engine compartment (near the tail lights), but it has a kip-up at each end to seal against the body just beyond the tail lights where there's a big hole.  

I have paper templates of them both, marked with bends and approximate hole locations.  I can send them for the cost of packaging and postage - $5 bucks and they're yours, just PM me and we'll chat.

Hi Gordon. Yes, I would like the paper templates you have available. I'll PM for your address and payment requirements. Thank you!

Jimmy V. posted:

I have an original lower fiber sheet pc. shown in the assembly diagram that was on my Fiberfab Speedster that you can have if you want it for the cost of shipping let me know.

Yes, I would like the sheet. Let me know what you want for shipping and I pay. 

Thank you!

Hi , I PM'ed you concerning the lower sheet. I also have a set of Gordon's templates I will send you as well. I am glad to have them be useful to another Speedster owner.

I had no idea those thing would be so popular.

Glad they actually work, too!

Alan Merklin posted:

Body to engine filler tins

Thank you for the detailed photos. It makes it easier for me to visualize what needs to be done. 

The shroud on my motor was painted and it looks as if the motor became so hot the paint bubbled. Hopefully the engine didn’t suffer too much and still usable. I’ll know after I tear it down. 

Here is my setup as promised. I used 2 pieces of aluminum that were tailored for my car. I would be surprised if you don’t need to custom fit yours. The underside shows welded-on brackets, and the bubble seal goes from firewall to firewall.

Drumagination posted:

Here is my setup as promised. I used 2 pieces of aluminum that were tailored for my car. I would be surprised if you don’t need to custom fit yours. The underside shows welded-on brackets, and the bubble seal goes from firewall to firewall.

Thank you for sharing your tin setup. This is great, I'm able to see the end goal instead of guessing what I think is correct. I will definitely use the photos and drawings for my setup. I'm very appreciative to all of you for taking the time sharing. 

Theron posted:

I've got these under cylinder tins and pulley tin. You will probably need a rear tin and then close the gap to the body with sheet metal.  You can have them for the cost of shipping and the normal SOC trade requirement of minor beer money. PM me if you want them.
-=theron

Theron, you rock! I did not expect you to send the tins so quickly! Thank you!

I picked up an engine stand last night. I'm definitely strong enough to lift a motor from floor jack to a dolly. I also verified I'm definitely not strong enough to lift a motor onto the the engine stand. I'll be getting a hoist this weekend for sure. One thing about living in the hills, you can't "chance" see an unsuspecting neighbor and ask if he wants to come over for a soda pop.  

vdubuslife posted:

I picked up an engine stand last night. I'm definitely strong enough to lift a motor from floor jack to a dolly. I also verified I'm definitely not strong enough to lift a motor onto the the engine stand. I'll be getting a hoist this weekend for sure. One thing about living in the hills, you can't "chance" see an unsuspecting neighbor and ask if he wants to come over for a soda pop.  

Attach the cradle to the motor, lay the engine stand on its side, insert the cradle tube into the stand, and lift the whole contraption up into position. That's how I did it by myself.

Robert M posted:

vdubuslife posted:

I picked up an engine stand last night. I'm definitely strong enough to lift a motor from floor jack to a dolly. I also verified I'm definitely not strong enough to lift a motor onto the the engine stand. I'll be getting a hoist this weekend for sure. One thing about living in the hills, you can't "chance" see an unsuspecting neighbor and ask if he wants to come over for a soda pop.  

Attach the cradle to the motor, lay the engine stand on its side, insert the cradle tube into the stand, and lift the whole contraption up into position. That's how I did it by myself.

Darn!  You stole my thunder.

Hi George,

 I went to get the what I thought was a lower fiber sheet ready to ship you and realized it is actually the upper pc. I did find a lower pc. I had made from galvanized sheet metal that I never used that I will send you, I needed to bend it to ship but it is thin enough to flattened out nicely or use as an easy trace to make a part out of the material of your choice. Good luck with your car.

I don't know if your car has an open area from the tail lights into the engine compartment. Mine was a VS and that area must be sealed off as well. See photos....Bruce

My Fiberfab is the same as George's and has the same open area so it will need to be filled as well. The templates I sent that I got from Gordon should have this part.

Jimmy V. posted:

Hi George,

 I went to get the what I thought was a lower fiber sheet ready to ship you and realized it is actually the upper pc. I did find a lower pc. I had made from galvanized sheet metal that I never used that I will send you, I needed to bend it to ship but it is thin enough to flattened out nicely or use as an easy trace to make a part out of the material of your choice. Good luck with your car.

Thank you Jimmy V.! Your generosity along with Theron’s essentially takes care of a major part of my tin requirements. 

I would like to thank everyone for providing all the positive feedback and materials! 

Robert M posted:

vdubuslife posted:

I picked up an engine stand last night. I'm definitely strong enough to lift a motor from floor jack to a dolly. I also verified I'm definitely not strong enough to lift a motor onto the the engine stand. I'll be getting a hoist this weekend for sure. One thing about living in the hills, you can't "chance" see an unsuspecting neighbor and ask if he wants to come over for a soda pop.  

Attach the cradle to the motor, lay the engine stand on its side, insert the cradle tube into the stand, and lift the whole contraption up into position. That's how I did it by myself.

Hi Robert, I watched a YouTube video where a guy demonstrated that technique. It looked simple enough but I’m going to tap out in using that route.

I have titanium plates holding my neck and back together. I’m still feeling it moving the motor earlier this week. Maybe I’ll wait until the FedEx guy swings  by and ask if he wants to take a break and have a soda pop...

vdubuslife posted:

Robert M posted:

vdubuslife posted:

I picked up an engine stand last night. I'm definitely strong enough to lift a motor from floor jack to a dolly. I also verified I'm definitely not strong enough to lift a motor onto the the engine stand. I'll be getting a hoist this weekend for sure. One thing about living in the hills, you can't "chance" see an unsuspecting neighbor and ask if he wants to come over for a soda pop.  

Attach the cradle to the motor, lay the engine stand on its side, insert the cradle tube into the stand, and lift the whole contraption up into position. That's how I did it by myself.

Hi Robert, I watched a YouTube video where a guy demonstrated that technique. It looked simple enough but I’m going to tap out in using that route.

I have titanium plates holding my neck and back together. I’m still feeling it moving the motor earlier this week. Maybe I’ll wait until the FedEx guy swings  by and ask if he wants to take a break and have a soda pop...

Doing that would be probably be a better option. LOL