Help please! Gordon, I tried to do what you said, piece of metal came from turn signal and now they don't work, curved piece like this:
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Figured it out thanks!
@Gordon Nichols Just a quick thank you and then I'll get out of Ken's thread. Looking at the front beam from the front I was not able to see the caster shims, but I could reach around and feel the crescent moon shape clearly. Your description was enough for me to confirm that I have them and understand why. Thanks again.
Wow, two satisfied customers.....
I'm on a roll!
And @KenTO, I don't recognize that small part in your hand in the photo. I don't recall it from messing with my directional lever/switch (from a 1969 VW) nor could I see something like it looking at photos of directional switches at bugcity but regardless, nothing should be falling out of the steering column, not should the directional lever/switch be loose! It's best to pull the wheel and look at the switch area to see what the hell is going on in there and fix it.
Hang on to that part - It might be important. 
Figured it out. There is a screw under the turn indicator, this part goes into the screw and allows it to attach to the steering column without slipping. Took me a few minutes to figure out. Caused a moment of panic because it just fell out, had no idea where it was from.
That part look like the piece that the screw that tightens the turn signal mechanism to the steering column screws in to.
@KenTO posted:Figured it out. There is a screw under the turn indicator, this part goes into the screw and allows it to attach to the steering column without slipping. Took me a few minutes to figure out. Caused a moment of panic because it just fell out, had no idea where it was from.
Look it up in the Grant's Atlas of VW bodies, you might find it : ) Just kidding.
Mine arrived this week too! The fuel cap screws were loose so the fuel dripped over the carpet, and the handbrake is broken. I understand that shipping a car like this over a long long distance is hard. What I am trying to figure out is the handbrake. Any tips how to fix based on the pictures?
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Look under the seats for the upper part of the handle. If it's really completely gone, you can buy a new assembly from EMPI and it's not that expensive.
Don’t panic! You haven’t lost anything and it is easily fixed.
Here is a drawing of what’s inside your ebrake lever:
That rod with the spring and black knob on it is #2, the pawl rod in the drawing. The hook at the end of the rod fits over the top of the pawl, #8 in the drawing. Sometimes, if the ebrake isn’t adjust right in the first place, the button on the pawl rod pushes the pawl too far and the ebrake lever is pulled up or pushed down too far and the pawl slips out of position, allowing the pawl rod to disengage and spring out of the lever. This could have happened if someone (the trucker?) pulled up really hard on the lever - who knows... It totally depends on how the thing was adjusted in the first place.
The fix is to take the vinyl/leather boot off of the ebrake lever so you can see what’s going on, release the lever all the way down, reach in to the inside of the lever and, with a screwdriver, maneuver the pawl into position to accept the pawl rod bent end over the top of the pawl to hold the two together. Once that is done the spring on the pawl rod should pull the rod and pawl forward enough to engage the teeth, at the bottom of the pawl, with the gear rack (#5 in the drawing) in the ebrake base and everything should stay in place. Typically, #5 is allowed to move a bit to allow everything to be assembled together. If you can’t see how this all works you may have to remove the #9 lever retaining pin and take everything out to re-assemble it on a bench, but honestly, it’s easier to leave it all in there and play with different approaches til it all falls back together.
You may have to adjust the cable ends on the lever (#3 and #4 in the drawing) to insure that the pawl rod can’t slip off the pawl in the future, but you should be able to look down inside of the lever to see how it all works (it’s pretty simple) and figure out how to do that.
Buena Surete!
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Wow! This community and support for each other is top notch! Thank you so much!
@Carlos P posted:Wow! This community and support for each other is top notch! Thank you so much!
Yeah, we're pretty awesome.
Welcome to the Madness, brother.
I'm pretty sure the handle is right here. Slip it back over the end of the ebrake and with any luck you'll be good to go. 
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The ever-vigilant Troy is right. Looking at that diagram up above, if the pawl is left in the right position it can allow the #5 "Ratchet Segment" to fall out of the mechanism and you have to re-insert it (pay close attention to the diagram and you'll see how it goes). There's nothing holding it in except for the pawl. It has a horse-shoe shaped back end that fits around the lever pin #9 but nothing really holds it to the pin. I suppose it's possible for that to fall out of position (maybe landing on the floor) so look around if you don't see it and put it back. Use a small magnet to hold it in position while messing with the pawl/etc.
The true "Madness" that Stan welcomed you to is that some of us actually know arcane stuff like how the e-brake lever works. And have also gone through what you're going through. 
Finally picked up the Speedster today after returning it for some fixes, needed a new signal switch from Greg at VMC and had a once over, big smile on my face after driving it from the dealer. The front end is very light (no spare tire) but I like it, it gives it that "all the weight in the rear" feeling that is classic to Porsche. Fun times.
Quick question, speedometer seemed to be stuck on zero until I drove a bit and car warmed up, common issue and is there a fix?
Is the speedo cable operated or GPS based? GPS requires a couple minutes to get a satellite fix.
It's FUN that it reads in reverse LOL! But don't back up too fast.
@DannyP posted:Is the speedo cable operated or GPS based? GPS requires a couple minutes to get a satellite fix.
It's FUN that it reads in reverse LOL! But don't back up too fast.
I’m pretty Greg is only using the new gauges that use the GPS sender for the speedo. Mine reads right at the start but I let the car warm up before I drive so it achieves a signal during that time.
@Robert M posted:I’m pretty Greg is only using the new gauges that use the GPS sender for the speedo. Mine reads right at the start but I let the car warm up before I drive so it achieves a signal during that time.
Greg told me recently that he is using the cable driven speedometers. There was a reason, but I don't recall what it was.
@Troy Sloan posted:Greg told me recently that he is using the cable driven speedometers. There was a reason, but I don't recall what it was.
Interesting.
@Troy Sloan posted:Greg told me recently that he is using the cable driven speedometers. There was a reason, but I don't recall what it was.