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There will be, Dave. It'd be kind of silly to overlook it now, since the sheet metal and the Beverly shears are about ten feet from the car.
There's a metal break there, too, so it'll be pretty easy to make good, solid and complex-folded pieces to rivet right in. I'll be working on the tin after the cage and structural stuff is done; two weeks or so yet.
I considered the option of just making the whole thing a skeleton, like a sand rail dune-buggy or something, but I just couldn't do it. If I can see the tires, I can probably be hit by small rocks and such.
They're in plain view without a footwell, so I'm gonna err on the side of safety.
Woo-Hoo! Carlisle or bust!
Cory . Your project is coming along well. Lots of great ideas . Are you going with the stock pedal configuration? If you are not , you may want to consider making the leg /foot box area a bit wider. That something I wish I did.
Watching your project is giving me the itch to start up another one myself. Maybe a stretched/chop oval.
Keep up the great progress.
Thanks, Joe! Scratch the itch!
I'm keeping the stock pedals so I don't have to have two split brake lines. The little knowledge I have, coupled with Sartwell's vast knowledge of VWs ... I'm going to bow to his wisdom.
I wanted hydraulic pedals, but he's only ever done those on two-wheel discs. Generally, there aren't any paired brakes on the dragsters he builds, and he doesn't want to speculate on pressures.
We're also trying to finish this in time for PA. It'll be ugly, but it'll be done.

TC, your not-so-evil badge will be at your casa Friday via UPS.


I went with the CNC dual master cylinder brake system. It has a mechanical proportioning option. The dual master is great for having disc brakes at all four corners. The hydraulic clutch is also nice . Think about using a morse cable for the throttle control . Just run it through the center hump. It's smooth and you won't regret having it. I don't like the VW cables.

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Dave thanks! The hood hinges are the stock CMC's. You just need to remove the paint, drill the holes and polish. The tension device is something I custom made. It fixed the rear clip flex issue. The doors use to pop open everytime I when over railroad tracks. The Chassis Shop in Michigan and A&A Manufacturing has the parts needed to complete. Sheet metal work was completed using the neighbors aluminum siding brake. I used alot of poster board to make sheetmetal templates.
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