New Projekt Hoopty photos are up; April 20th

The doors are on again, and there are some body alignment problems to work out, but we're making progress slow and steady. For those of you following the Projekt hoping to drive the old girl in PA, we're still green for the event.
In addition to the 20 or so new pictures in the paininthebug folder, I added three to the Official Show Off Your Ride Thread, 'cuz I liked the way they came out.

Cory,
I had the same kind of alignment problem with my CMC on both doors with the exception that the gap was where the doors met the rear fenders. What I did was reposition the latch by moving it further inward. It required a little bit of fiberglassing to seal up the old hole where the latch was originally mounted but since the hole was under the carpet I didn't have to worry about doing a stellar, smooth finish for that.

Maybe you can reposition the hinges on yours? Is it possible to remount them? Was that gap there before you tore the Hoopty down?

Cory, since your car is almost as fully articulated as a Transformer (the toy, not the electrical component :-), I was wondering how you'd latch everything down so that the panels lined up. Since the front clip has the rear of the fenders unsupported, I would expect that could be a problem area. I assume the rear clip will have similar issues.

A little detective work in my old photos revealed that the driver's door has always been off a bit. It's probably more pronounced now because the hood and front fenders - laid down as a unit -- are out of position on the driver's side. The hood shocks measured out to the same angle and origin/insertion points, but the chassis is crooked by an eighth of an inch.
The CMC box tubing that runs around the cockpit is not exactly square to the tunnel, and every bit of support for the underside of the hood grows off of that. The hinge is under and in front of the battery box, which in turn grows off the frame head. The dash grows off of the upright pillars on either side of it.
The fix, I think, is going to be every bit as easy as relaxing the driver's side hood shock and putting a couple locator pins through the dash support so it doesn't want to cramp again as the nose metal settles in over time. It should be okay, at least for what it is.
The back, however, will line up smartly for my having discovered this problem. I cut the back off the car BEFORE engineering its support mechanism, largely because I didn't have an engine yet.
The rear hatch support is going to come from the bottom four bolt holes in the Type IV block's fan side. Everything will come off of a plate bolted in exactly there. The measurements for the passenger side will be cheated forward an eighth of an inch to meet the door sills while the driver's side stays right where it should.
Both the front and rear fenders will be attached but removeable thanks to some Dzuz fasteners
http://www.bakerprecision.com/dzus.htm (for example purposes only! I don't know these guys!)
and .5-inch box tubing at the geometric middle of their lowest points, three inches up from the bottom of the body. That will put the Dzuzes in the middle of the orange stripe vertically and make for a visually appealing hard-point.
That will all go fairly quickly, the hard part being the framework which will support the headrests and the bracing the assembly will rest on.
That work is scheduled for Monday.