New Speedster - Help identify this car please - need help from you

Guys,

I should introduce myself. I am Jim and live in Atlanta, Georgia. I am a hotrodder, bike builder, and now owner of the car you'll see if you hit the link. I have always snapped my head when I saw a Speedster and this car hit the mark after selling a hotrod '31 Ford Tudor sedan that I build ground up. Somebody saw it and couldn't live without it - and I fit the same profile when I saw this car on ebay two days ago.

Here's the issue. I really don't know much about these cars but can see that this car is very well built by Boyd Cottington (at least I hope so - was told it was built for his wife originally 5 years ago). I REALLY NEED help understanding what company's body that is, the engine size (1955?), chassis, brand of exhaust, where I can buy a set of decent tire's/wheels, and all the other slick tips.

I particpate on a motorcycle board so I knew you guys could help. Please, even if it sounds obvious, please tell me everything about this car - except to tell me I got rolled if I paid too much.

Respond here or my email is jimfins(To-Email-Insert-@)bellsouth.net

cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4556758958&category=6428

And thanks!

That same car has been discussed in the past.

www.speedsterowners.com/forum/readmsg.asp?t=6917
www.speedsterowners.com/forum/readmsg.asp?t=5426

The car does not appear to be a Vintage/JPS mold. Perhaps an older CMC/Fiberfab, but I can't tell from the pictures.

Also, be sure to note that top is a removeable hartop. It has no foldable soft top and you wouldn't be able to add one with the windshield.

There is a large amount of "selling jargon" in that ad which would make me very cautious.

-=theron

Hello Jim. It's hard to know where to start to answer your questions since the car you purchased seems to be unlike any other on this site. If the car was indeed built by Boyd Coddington, or at least commissioned by him, it probably is a well-built quality product and you probably did not get hosed.

I suggest that before you look to hard at making changes that you drive and enjoy the car. The advertisement on ebay seemed to be a lot of fluff and not very much in the way of details. This being the case, it is hard to comment on its components, including the "1955" engine (perhaps 1915cc engine???).

If you are new to this website, I suggest that you hang out here for a while and ask lots of questions. That's why this site exists.
Enjoy your purchase
John H

This guy sells a lot of Vintage cars, but this one certainly is different then normal. If you like it then it should be ok, but because of the way the windshield is designed you can forget installing a soft-top, theres nothing to hold on to?

I'm not sure but one of the engine pictures looks like the engine tin isn't even installed? If this is true then it must be a very small engine to stay cool like that? I'm guessing its a 1915 like someone else said above. As for the year 1955, nothing on that car really represents a 55 whatsoever so if you want out of it theres your out.

Not only did they not have flared wheel wells, but they had beehive tailights. And the list of differences would go on for a page. But, if you like the look it is actually pretty cool. Some people want to try and replicate the car almost exactly, while others don't? I have done a little bit of both on my car which makes me wonder why I'm such a fence sitter.

WELCOME to the best porsche 356 replica site on the net!!!!!!!

Hey guys........I'm impressed to say the least. You have given me the good and the "beware" and I sincerely appreciate it.

The top issue is not one that I am concerned about as I am in tune with the fact that it's a "roadster" - meaning no protection 99% of the time. Since I lean more toward the "rod" side I like the cut down posts and like the hardtop a LOT. My wife will drive it with the top off (the car...not hers....but I can hope, right?) while I'll be just as happy in the closed cock-pit.

I was fairly certain that this car had been seen here and discussed too - since it seems (like many speedsters) to be unique in many ways. I know there are certain "that can't be right" comments in the ad, but the car is really what I'm looking at. If Boyd built it (I am told he built the car for his wife and was thinking about opening his own speedster production facility), I am fairly confident that he shaped this one to his liking (and to mine too once those wheel wells are filled up).

I spent considerable time on the phone with the order and he does sell a lot of replicas - and most are little to no miles. He apprears to be a solid guy - and I hope the car is as sharp in person as it appears in the 10 hours I've spent with my nose to the screen.

Does anyone know anything about the chassis. I see the tube is square - non vw - but I know little else. Please help with what you suspect the HP is if it's the 1915 with all the upgrades, the chassis possibilities (who?), and how I might get this thing to rumble (what kind of header is that and where can I find a stinger or throaty muffler for it?

Again, I cannot thank you enough. I pulled the trigger because I feared someone else would beat me to the punch - and didn't want to lose my shot at this car.

Oh.....and it IS getting a radio!

Jim; the guy is legit and he is a Vintage Speedsters reseller. His items on ebay are featured with lots of nice pictures all shot in the same location. I also second what Steve said about the lack of tin in the engine compartment; no matter what the engine size you definitely need a good seal in that area to prevent air cooled VW engines from overheating; you will need to address that immediately as soon as you get the car. Don't drive it like that or the engine won't last; in your case you have the added benefit of better airflow because of the louvered decklid but address that issue ASAP.

Can I drive it on the highway in it's current state? Or is it when it sits at idle that the danger occurs (assuming the later)?

It will probably be getting too much heat either way. I would say short duration low speeds that don't generate significant heat, but you do need to put the tin in as soon as possible.

I guess I am confused abot the shrouds because I only see a small area around the pulley where I can see through.

Am I not seeing something?

Jim,
Check these before and after shots of my car. in the before you can see thru to the pavemnt across the rear of the engine. If you can see the exaust, it isn't properly sealed. In the after you can not. If you can see a spot here or there then you need to finish the job. A screw hole here and there will not hurt.

Judging from the pics on the add it is difficult to tell if it is sealed as you can't see that far down into the engine bay, however, if it were not sealled you would see light from the bottom side of the car. My guess is that has already been done, except for around the pully (per your comment)

Well, Jim, if you can see through from the compartment to the road surface it's definitely not sealed and hot air will be recirculated in the compartment wreaking havoc on your engine. As I wrote in another post here, the trick is to totally isolate the top half of the engine from the bottom half so as to ensure only fresh cool air gets to the top part; the engine will be expelling hot air at the bottom to the back of the car and you don't want that hot air back in the compartment.

Ben,
I have the same gap on mine and am looking for a recommendation for sealing it. Again it is just the gap between the two sheet metal pieces below the pulley. I am looking for suggestions before I try to reinvent the wheel.

Thanks
Troy

Troy

my chesil had the same problem with a variable gap between the engine and cooling tin. I used vw type 2 engine tin foam strip. Its a heat resistant soft foam compound that fits easily and because its soft it can fit quite large and variable gaps.
Rob

Rob,
thanks but I think you are looking at the gap between the tin and the body and that is where the typ 2 strip fits and does a great job. I'm talking about the gap directly under the pulley and it is much too narrow for the "H" foam.

Troy

Troy you should have a tin under the pulley that is attached to the engine block.

End of story guys....

It was the body from Fla (company outta business) and the car was not as sharp as I had hoped.

I flew from Atlanta to Phoenix today (and back) but did order a VS all the way out (every option I think).....but can I get a bigger engine than a 1915cc?

Yes, there are several builders out there. I ordered mine from Pat Downs at CB Performance as have many of the members on this site. Go to cbperformance.com and you can get the number. Send an email to Jim Ward, he has also ordered a larger engine from Pat. Hope this helps! It's a lot easier than it sounds trust me, I even think VS gives you a engine credit if you order else where.

Pat

Jim

Glad you bailed on this black speedster, it just didn't seem to be done in a craftsman like manner for a Boyd car, especially the top section of the windshield just hanging out in the breeeze waiting for it to crack from the minimal support, hence your trip to AZ. was well worth the money spent, i.e. cheap insurance so to speak.
A good freind on mine, Max Zimmer (see his file pics) bought a wide body from Kirk a few years ago, it is an sharp looking ride !

Enjoy the VS you have ordered
Alan