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Is the part of the tie-rod end which fits into the steering knuckle a tapered or interference (press) fit?
If so, then support the mating piece of the knuckle with a wood block or jack, insert the tie-rod end into the mounting hole, put a piece of hardwood on top of the tie-rod end and give it a rap with a hammer to press it in and hold it while you turn the nut on (might take a couple of raps, but it should hold fast). I've also seen mechanics slip a tie wrap down through the hole, slip the tie-rod end into the hole and then give it a rap on the top to "seat" it, using the tie wrap as a wedge to hold it in - usually pretty effective.

If it's NOT a press-fit, then try a pair of vise grips up at the top of the threads (there is often a collar there) to get the nut going onto the bolt/shaft, or just give up, get a non-nylock nut, put it on tight and then drill a hole for a cotter pin (although I've never had to do that).

gn
Dr. Skun-Knuckles

1957 Porsche(Speedster)

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Is the part of the tie-rod end which fits into the steering knuckle a tapered or interference (press) fit?
If so, then support the mating piece of the knuckle with a wood block or jack, insert the tie-rod end into the mounting hole, put a piece of hardwood on top of the tie-rod end and give it a rap with a hammer to press it in and hold it while you turn the nut on (might take a couple of raps, but it should hold fast). I've also seen mechanics slip a tie wrap down through the hole, slip the tie-rod end into the hole and then give it a rap on the top to "seat" it, using the tie wrap as a wedge to hold it in - usually pretty effective.

If it's NOT a press-fit, then try a pair of vise grips up at the top of the threads (there is often a collar there) to get the nut going onto the bolt/shaft, or just give up, get a non-nylock nut, put it on tight and then drill a hole for a cotter pin (although I've never had to do that).

gn
Dr. Skun-Knuckles
Ok, here we are. remember my changing disc to 4 bolt so that i can put my wheels on. Well those parts came today. Oh joy.

Everything is going awesome except the new tie-rod ends have those nylon bolt ends that lock the bolt. the new tie rods no longer have cotter-pins. When i put on the bolt it goes great until I get to the nylon then the whole tie rod turns. Any tricks out there? I tried holding with pliers but it'll only go so far then...it's still loose.

* The tie rod that goes to the new spindle that I installed for the discs.
Yeah the tie wrap really works, even up into truck-class front ends ;>)

All that happens is you compress the tie wrap (technically called; "squishing the hell out of it") just like using "plastigage" tape, and it gets between the threads and the wall of the hole. It gets really thin, but will not let go when you're tightening the nut. Pretty neat, huh?

30 years from now, when you want to remove that tie-rod end, just use a "tie-rod pickle fork" on it (Technically called a "tie-rod end remover, but it looks like a big pickle fork - I have one to fit my impact hammer gun) and give the pickle fork a smack with a hammer and the tie-rod end'll just fall apart.

Que Bueno, no?

gn
mucho bueno. But the passenger side that was the source of this in the beginning, I tried the same this morning. Turns out it is not the same part as the other. I ordered a RH thread and got a RH thread but the first 3 numbers are different than the LH thread on the side that worked last night. SO dammit I am waiting again for %$#@ parts before I can go for a spin. I order from CIP which are great but 3000 miles away. So I guess it'll leave Monday and gey here by the end of next week.

On a bright note, the discs are in, new spindles, bearings and new shocks in the front. Feels solid. Tomorrow I change the shocks in the Ghia for oil filled and maybe do my rear shocks for the new coil over that I bought. I WANT TO DRIVE.......

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Just to make you feel a little (real little) better, Pearl is on jack stands while I figure out why she's got the "shakes" at anything over 3K rpm in 4'th so we're not going anywhere, either.

She didn't used to shake, but then Peter MeEwan and I did a bunch of burn-outs playing with his G-Tech gizmo and she either threw a wheel weight or spun the tire on the rim. I checked out the wheel spacers and they look ok - no cracks or distortions at all. Took the front wheels over last week for balancing and later saw no change in shakiness, so took the rears over today and got them back with what looks like a pound of wheel weights on the inside of one of them(!?!?!?!?!) The balancing guy asked what they were going to, so he took extra-special care to get them right on the money. Should have everything back together tomorrow and take her out on the "Cape Cod Expressway" (aka, I-195 in Massachusetts) to see how we've made out, but while I've got it up on stands, I plan to spin just the drums in the morning, just to see if anything inboard of the drums is amiss.

Ahhhhhh! - The joys of working on your Speedster!! Hope you get your tie-rod sooner than you think!

gn
Bummer Gordon, hope it's just that. Gary at CIP1 sent the new (proper) tie rod today from Vancouver so I expect to have it Wed-Thursday. The new rims are on, the discs are in, new wheel bearings, did some shining. Checkin' wiring...and by the end of the week should be ready to go. Except for one thing. I still cannot walk although I did take the Ghia outside today. Calling for 75F tomorrow and people are still skiing. I wish I had it out. Physio again tomorrow, hope to be able to walk this week......
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