New To the Forum

Welcome, looks like you have plenty of garage space to fill with parts 

Whats the spec?

Hi Greg, I have ordered suspension upgrade from Red9Design, front and rear, going to upgrade brakes to discs F&R, I had to replace front end unit, with new one from VWHeritage, I will be needing a servo for the brakes, and not sure how,  what, which one to get . The engine is a stumbling block as the donor didn't have one, but have a friend who allegedly has a 2litre race engine, but haven't seen it, or know that it even runs. 

This is early days, so lots to think about. Thanks for the reply.

I ran a beetle with a servo year ago, took pipe off the manifold. It tended to lock up very easily at the front because of the light weight. With some sticky pads you may not need a servo. Just a thought. Sounds like a good spec. 

Ok cool, sounds like good early advice, hope the spec adds up at the end, I'll keep you posted with developments. Thanks

Yes, it's unlikely that you will need a servo.  I can easily lock the front disks on mine.

As I said on your other post, Welcome to the Madness, Scott! 

Welcome!

Even though I'm a 3rd generation Yankee, I have a lot of Welsh blood in me.  My great Grandfather, and his brothers cam to the States to work in the steel mills and coal mines of West Virginia.

That body looks interesting.  Is it fiberglass or metal?   It looks metallic in the photo, but that may just be  the lighting.

Hi, thanks for posting, the body is fibreglas-gelcoat, with galvanised steel frame underneath, if I can find photo I'll post it. Cheers

Scott

Welcome , Scott.  You've come to the right place to find help with your build.  We also like to help you spend your money.  Best of luck.

Aye....welcome from Canada too. I'm also 3rd gen Welsh, son of a coal miner's son from Brigend, Wales. 

looks like you've got some nice wheels there and the Speedster will fit in well. If up in the air about engines and not committed to air cooled a Subaru is not difficult to fit. 

Hi Guys, thanks for the welcome, good to know I have like minded individuals to ask for help and advice from.. Cheers. Wallet is feeling a little lighter already

David Stroud posted:

Aye....welcome from Canada too. I'm also 3rd gen Welsh, son of a coal miner's son from Brigend, Wales. 

 

My father was true to his Welsh heritage.  He grew up in a family that hated the Irish.  I have no idea if it was just my family, or if there indeed is a long history of conflict between the Welsh and the Irish...  But my father inherited a hatred for the Irish "fish eaters."  

True Story:

I worked for a large retailer (in the 90's) that was opening up several stores around St Louis.  Our Director of advertising was on sick leave, so the regional manager set up the relationship with the St Louis Post Dispatch.    He didn't realize that it was common in the industry to either 1) pay full price for advertising, and build up points earned toward graft, or 2) pay a discount up front, and not earn points.

Several months later, the Director of advertising had just returned from leave, and got a call from the Post Dispatch - "What do you want to do with the 5 trips for 2 to Ireland you have earned?"

Well, it was too late to opt for the up front discount, so the Company decided to use the trips to reward a person from each department... I got lucky, and was awarded a trip for 2, all expense paid trip to Ireland!

I was in my mid 20's and very excited to be able to take my wife for a 9-day free trip to Ireland!   I called my dad to tell him, and after he sighed, his first words were: "Why on Earth would you want to go there?"

Fish eaters? I always thought they preferred Potatoes LOL

Welcome Scott- Depending how "race" it is, your friend's 2 liter may not be the best choice for your Speedster. Ideally you want an engine that goes to about 6,000 or 6500 rpm with power; an engine that revs much past 7,000 is no longer the "jump in any time, go anywhere" car I'm guessing you want it to be. Can you find out what camshaft, heads and compression are in the engine?

Hi, it's a good point, one that has been on my mind, I'm not sure if he wants to part with it yet, so it's still early days. That said, what size engine would normally be classed as 'ideal'?

Thanks again. Scott

Lord Seti posted:

Hi, it's a good point, one that has been on my mind, I'm not sure if he wants to part with it yet, so it's still early days. That said, what size engine would normally be classed as 'ideal'?

Thanks again. Scott

2.5 litre Subaru

I was thinking more along the lines of VW to be a bit more original.

Pilgrim makes a fantastic kit.  I'd be very tempted to go with the 2.5 Subaru.

The RED9 stuff is also very good.  Watch your bumpsteer.

Hi, Scott......  Tried and true Irishman here, but mixed between southwest (me) and north (my wife).  Can honestly say I've never been to Llandudno, North Wales, but you folks are really out there towards the coast, eh?  Must be beautiful out there....

A lot of folks think that a nicely built 2,110 aircooled is just about the sweet spot.  Plenty of power, easy to tune and keep that way, easy to keep cool (which gets harder as you get bigger than 2 liters), parts are readily available both here and there and it will probably wear out long after you've sold it.

Greg is only the second guy I've heard of over there with a servo brake system (Simon Hambly has one, too).  I'm assuming it is the same as what VW offered on the T2 bus with the remote vacuum booster and, while they work, you have to pay special attention to front/rear balance, since the front end is so light.  That can be done with proper valving to balance things.

That said, only a very small few in North America have brake servos - I believe all of them are Subaru donor car based and the balancing is done in the ABS system.  The rest of us have just regular VW Karman Ghia Disk/Drum setups and if you add a an 10 pound residual valve in the rear brake circuit, they seem to be OK with plenty of stopping power.

Yes, you could have your car ready for Spring 2018, but trust me - it's gonna be a lot of work.  Keep posting progress and we'll all help with whatever shortcuts we can offer.  I would guess at there being around a dozen or so people in here from the UK.  You can find them by searching on Members at the top, then choosing "Advanced Search", then the map option, then input your mail code and they'll show up all over England - Sorry....no one's closer than Liverpool.  Quite a few of us (including me) have built their cars and know what's ahead for you.  It's going to be a great adventure!

Lord Seti posted:

Hi, it's a good point, one that has been on my mind, I'm not sure if he wants to part with it yet, so it's still early days. That said, what size engine would normally be classed as 'ideal'?

Thanks again. Scott

As Gordon said, a 2110 would be a great choice; I look at it from the standpoint that any thing that gets you into the 140-150 (or even 160) hp ball park will be a ton of fun, so stroked and 2 liters or bigger (and the bigger, the more fun they are!) is the objective here. The larger engine set up to peak at 6,000 or so rpm will have gobs of bottom end/lower midrange, be efficient and smooth at driving rpm's (2500- 4,000) and be easy to maintain/care for, hence the "jump in any time, go anywhere" tag. Al

Thanks guys, more HP appeals but not sure what you mean by '2110' can someone elaborate please. 

"2110" is a common displacement increase for a high-performance VW Type 1. It is achieved by increasing the bore to 90.5 mm and the stroke to 82 mm.

As Gordon said, it is the sweet spot for a speedster-- quite a bit more horsepower, but in a package that is pretty reliable and long-lived. No Type 1 is going 100,000 mi without some intervention, but a well-built 2110 should live a long and healthy life.

At the end of the day, the ACVW has limitations baked into the cake. There have been no shortage of guys who have worked around a lot of them, but at pretty great cost in terms of time and treasure. A 2110 takes you right to the edge of what is possible without becoming your own R&D department and field-test engineer. Smart guys build a nice one, and then move on to other endeavors. Not-so-smart guys (who shall go nameless) keep trying for "more", and often end up with less.

Don't be like Stupid Stan. Don't be that guy.

Ok so this is day two of me being on the this Forum, and I must say I am truly impressed with you guys, TRULY. I have never had so much positive and genuine interest shown, given, on a subject before. Thank you all so much, I look forward to sharing an interesting project with you all. Thanks again.

Scott

We have our moments of testiness, Scott, but we're generally a congenial bunch.  That's often aided by quantities of refreshing adult beverages. 

Lane Anderson posted:

We have our moments of testiness, Scott, but we're generally a congenial bunch.  That's often aided by quantities of refreshing adult beverages. 

It's 6 AM here, Lane, a little early for a drink. Maybe meet back here about 8:30 or so?

It's 6.00pm somewhere, so cheers.

I've emailed JCS to enquire if they can ship to UK, as they appear to do really good engines. I like the look of the 2110. 

If I go for this sort of engine, will the transmission from a "1972', 1300 Beetle work ok?

Yes, ANY year Beetle transmission between 1969 and 1978 will work, but bear in mind that your 1300 transaxle was designed for 40 hp.  Come to think of it.....a 1972 Beetle over here had a 1,600cc engine.   Are you sure that's a 1,300??  

Most of us have "beefed up" VW transaxles from Rancho Transaxles in Fremont, California to handle power from 85hp to 150hp.  You would need a 69-78 "Pro Street" IRS transaxle if you go the 2,109/2,110cc engine route.

https://ranchotransaxles.com/vw-transaxles/

They build them in several stages so they can handle the added horsepower we run.  Because of all of the open spaces and the Interstate Highway System here, we often opt to run "Freeway Flyer" transaxles with a 3:88 rear end to keep the engine revs down a little at 70-80mph, but if you plan on mostly country roads and little motorway driving, a stock 4:12 might be ok for you.

I have not heard of JCS for engines, but many of us have engines from CB Performance in California.  I happened to build my own, but that is getting rare (unless you're Stan).

http://www.cbperformance.com/T...gines-s/138.htm#2109

The shipping alone to the UK might choke you (I think it might double the overall cost), so wait a bit (you have the time) and ask around about who builds reliable aircooled engines in the UK - I know there are at least 2 or 3 and that might be a better choice.  @Ger up in Scotland might know of someone to get in touch with (he'll get a notice of this post).

So, as you can see, we're already spending all of your extra cash for you (and quickly, too!)  Take this slowly.  It is really easy to waste money (a LOT of money) on the wrong stuff, so let us guide you through all this.  Granted, some of our knowledge about where to go for things in the UK might be limited, but, hopefully we'll get a few more Brits on here to help out.  Seek out some of the UK VW clubs - they will be a great source of where to go for what.

Gordon  The "Speedstah Guy" from around Boston

BTW:  I love your brick garage floor!

Excellent Thanks Gordon, appreciate the time to reply, I'll check out local dealers/suppliers. 

Garage floor is ok, but makes feet ache after a few hours

Yep Log Book says 1285cc. Engine No. is AB474931. If that helps?

Cheers

Can't think of who JCS is at the moment- got a link to what you're looking at?

And you're talking about the trans out of a beetle with a 1300cc engine? It will have a 4.375 r&p, which with that big engine will seem awfully short (unless your building a street racer). You may be happier with a 4.125 or even a 3.88 geared trans.

PS- Gordon- even in later years the 1300cc engine was a beetle option in Europe and England

Hi, the info I have is: 

 JCS Volks Machine

15626 Cypress Ave

Irwindale, CA 91706

I think I am a way off sorting engine & gearbox at the moment, so will do some more homework, and get back to you guys for advice when I know what I talking about

Do you still have to pay a yearly registration tax based on engine displacement?  In Germany its up to €25/100cc (diesels are near double that) - so a 2100 cc could be €500/year or ~$600/year.  While a 2110 might be ideal for long cruises in US - it could be a costly annual fee in UK especially considering cost of petrol (gas) at $6-8/gallon. Aren't there also low emissions zones that could restrict an old air cooled VW polluter engine?  CO₂ emissions will surly soon be taxed in UK if they aren't already.  I bet a higher HP/displacement engine impacts insurance too?

Rather than importing a US built air cooled VW - I'd seriously look at Subaru power.  Nice HP for small displacement, modern emission controls, quality new parts available plus engine-trans adapter can be inexpensively shipped to you (or make a trip here and carry back in luggage).

Here's a few rants against JCS engines -

http://complaintwire.org/compl...Ak/jcs-volks-machine

Hi Wolfgang, thanks for the reply. In the UK, if a vehicle is older than forty years it is Tax exempt, and classed as a Historic Vehicle, hopefully when the car is finished it will pass an IVA test which it is required to pass to be able to be driven on UK roads, it will then be given a Log Book / V5 Certificate, this is based on the Chassis number of the original donor vehicle, which gives the vechicle it's registration number. I think I have that right. I have and I am still thinking about a Subaru unit, but feel a VW flat four would be original, as I said earlier I would like the car to be relativley resembling an original, and keep it fairly true to a 'Replica' car. Thanks for posting and your thoughts, I appreciate them.

If I were you, Lord Seti, I'd certainly give Pat Downs at CB Performance a call, or drop him an email to let him know what you want. I'd also direct you to TheSamba for a less congenial, but more in-depth review of various engine vendors.

Lord Seti posted:

Hi, the info I have is: 

 JCS Volks Machine

15626 Cypress Ave

Irwindale, CA 91706

I think I am a way off sorting engine & gearbox at the moment, so will do some more homework, and get back to you guys for advice when I know what I talking about

If you're looking at a California builder for your motor there's no better than CB Performance. Pat Downs, the engine builder for CB, knows his stuff and builds/ships engines all over the world. @Pat Downs

He also checks in on here, off and on, just to see what we're all up to (Hi, Pat!) and is open to the occasional question or two.

If you're going for that old school look and feel, there are ways to make a Type 1 VW look a lot like an early Porsche engine. Not a lot more money. And if you're wanting to replicate the early Porsche feel you'll want LESS power than a CB Performance 2110 will get. About HALF as much, in fact. 

No one here thinks that way, but I just wanted to throw that in. 

If you go for less power—say, a 1600 or 1641 with small dual carbs and just a little cam—you can get away with a stock gearbox. I drove a TD Replica for four years with a 1300 cc, 50-horse bone stock VW engine and transaxle and it worked fine. A little slow over the steep hills, but no big deal. A 75-hp engine in a Speedster replica will scoot you about in fine fashion, if all you're looking to do is scoot about.

If you put 150 horses in it, you won't regret that. But it's a bit more time and trouble (not to mention money) to do it.

Well, Eddsnova, seems to get my vote at the moment, I am leaning towards a 1641 twin carb setup with fast road cam, but hey it's still early days. Thanks for the overnight comments guys really appreaciate it.

And don't forget, I'm in Wales, so no nice freeways and wide open roads, I'm down in the country lanes area. So 'Sccoting' around I think will suit me fine, that said I am a petrol head, and looooove my speed.

“Power tends to corrupt and absolute power corrupts absolutely."-- Lord Acton

If you go with a cute little engine, and are happily puttering around Wales in it-- then whatever you do, I would advise that you never go for a ride in a car with 150+ hp. Once corrupted, you cannot return to your previous state of bliss with a lessor mill.

Forewarned is forearmed.