Hi Guys, you must have been reading my mind, I was just discussing this with my friend and mechanic yesterday, and we have decided to put discs on the front, drums on the rear, and not bother with the servo, until we have road tested the car, and then decide. That said; would you recommend a dual circuit system and if so what about the residual valve on the master cylinder, is that recommended?
Thanks guys don't know what I would do with out you 
Nice chandelier!
Somewhere, I have a similar photo of my Speedster body hung from the ceiling during the build. Those electric winches make life so much easier!
Disk front, drums rear needs a 10# residual valve anywhere in the line between the master cylinder and the rear "T" (so it manages both rear drums). Here's one from Wilwood on Summit:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-13784
I put mine right beside the driver's seat, next to the tunnel and under the carpet.
For the Master cylinder, I've had good luck with my Varga Super Beetle MC, designed for disk front/drum rear:
https://www.bugcity.com/shop/s...16451127D2nh52303665
If you find a MC with the residual valve already built in, go for it. They must be available in the UK.
Scott, the car looks great, nice color!
I'm amazed though, that a fluorescent fixture can hold a Speedster up in the air...
...and...is that a trials bike lurking in the left background?...
Will Hesch posted:Scott, the car looks great, nice color!
I'm amazed though, that a fluorescent fixture can hold a Speedster up in the air...
...and...is that a trials bike lurking in the left background?...
Based on the shape of the seat and frame it doesn't look like a trials bike to me Will.
well, it sure looks like a Yamaha TY 250, or 175 to me...
It looks like a Honda TL 125. I had one when I was a kid. No power, no brakes and it didn't handle well but it would take a beating! Will or Robert, are you a trials rider? Ever heard of Sacramento PITS trials club?
Chris
Will Hesch posted:well, it sure looks like a Yamaha TY 250, or 175 to me...
sherco_chris posted:It looks like a Honda TL 125. I had one when I was a kid. No power, no brakes and it didn't handle well but it would take a beating! Will or Robert, are you a trials rider? Ever heard of Sacramento PITS trials club?
Chris
I forget how Old School you are Will. It is a Honda TL125 so Chris is the winner. But when I think of a Trials Bike I envision this:
Chris I ride a dual sport off-road on four-wheel drive roads and fire roads up here in the Sierra Nevadas.
First: I'm proud to be "old school", after all I'm (almost) 66 years young.
Secondly: who told you it was a Honda TL125, I never saw a Honda with orange, always red
and Thirdly: My last bike (sold 3 years ago) was this one...(GasGas 275)
...but I had a TY250 and a Bultaco SherpaT (like the one below) which I competed on in the 70's. Rode a ton of trails on it as well, here on the Central Coast and in Yosemite near our cabin...the GasGas was the best (dirt) bike I've ever owned!
sorry Scott, for such a thread-drift, last time you'll post a photo!...
Hi Guys, sorry for not replying, have been on holiday, little cruise in the Med for my birthday 
. The little bike in question is a Honda TL125 rebored to 150cc, has a chrome Sammy Miller frame, and has been made road legal, and has UK Mot. AND IS FOR SALE.
. aAs an aside, this used to be my brothers old bike, and when the current owner passed away, his wife sold his collection and I bought this, and then realised it was my brothers. Happy coincidence.
On the car front, I am working towards getting the car to rolling chassis stage, and things are looking good. I'll keep you posted with developments and pics later.
PS I used to ride a Bultaco Matador. Really cool bike when your seventeen
Lord Seti posted:I used to ride a Bultaco Matador. Really cool bike when your seventeen
.....with an iron butt and a belief in your own invincibility!
.....with an iron butt and a belief in your own invincibility!
Oh so true, this simple comment brought back some amazing memories
Morning Gentlemen, further to my efforts to find a suitable engine for my replica Speedster. Over the weekend I found (locally) and engine and spare block with pots and pistons. Perhaps you can help identify the engine and size of the pistons.
Engine block number is: AS41 049101102
Pistons attached to this block are: 86.95. SP0.05
Any information will be greatly received, I think it's a bigger than standard piston setup, and it moves quite nicely when moving the flywheel. What would this be worth UK currency roughly would be interesting as I don't want to rip off or be ripped off.
Thanks guys I know you'll come good.
The pistons and cylinders are known as "87's" and yes, they are bigger than the stock 85.5 mm pistons that come in a 1600 (which is actually 1584 cc's). With a stock 69 mm crankshaft they make a "1641". 87's have thinner cylinder walls, and if the engine is run hot they don't have the heat sink capabilities of the 85.5's and can will distort quicker, so if they are installed you need to take a barrel off (start with #3, the far left one when looking from the pulley end) to look at the cylinder walls. If there are score marks running up and down the cylinder and appropriate marks on the piston then they're done (not a big deal, a new p/c set isn't that expensive). If there's a flywheel installed, grab the pulley and lightly pull back and forth- you should only barely feel movement, as endplay is specced at .003- .006" (.075-.150 mm). If you feel it "clunk" and it moves appreciably more then the the main bearing thrust is shot and it definitely needs to be rebuilt.
If that's the number just below the generator/alternator pedestal you have a 74-79 1600 block which will be perfect. Is the camshaft stock or aftermarket? Stock or counterweighted crankshaft? I wouldn't pay more than $300 or so if every thing is stock, but in great shape and it it's a core for rebuild, 100 or $150? Take any sheetmetal and extras that come with it.
Hope this helps- Al
Hi Al, many thanks for the prompt reply, I knew I could rely on you guys . I will have a look next time I get chance to check out the play on the flywheel, but from the small amount of time I had to look at it yesterday, it felt nice and tight. I don't think he has run the engine with these pistons yet as there is a donor engine with the deal, so I think he was going to swap things over, but got way laid and didn't get round to it, now he's lost interest and wants to get rid. So I now know how much is a fair price, and all sounds very reasonable to me.
Again thanks for your help, as usual I'll keep you up to date as things progress.
Cheers
Afternoon all, Question- I am hoping to purchase to above mentioned engine and 1600 block with uprated pistons, the gearbox that came with my donor vehicle was a 1300 engine, the question is - will this fit? do have to get it upgraded? or will it do in untouched standard form, the original is from a 1972 Beetle.
Thanks for the help you guys are Encyclopedic Speedster Ninjas
The engine will bolt to the transaxle just fine.
2 things to look for:
1) there are two styles of pressure-plate/throwout-bearing (early and late). Replacement clutches generally come with an adapter so one part can fit both.
2) there are two types of nosecone mounts on transaxles (again, "early" and "late"). If your pan is set-up for one and the nosecone is for the other, you'll run into some issues.
Good luck.
That AS41 sound like an engine block casting number - 4% magnesium/1% aluminum. Look for a stamped in # on block below where the Alternator/Generator mounts. Then look that number up at link below to determine year of manf:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/ar...bugchassisdating.php
87 mm P&C cost same as stock P&C so don't pay extra for it.
As Greg mentioned, AS41 is probably the casting #, and why I asked if that was the # below the generator/alternator pedestal. As said, it will work fine. You mentioned that the transaxle was connected to a 1300 out of a '72 Beetle- as Stan said, you'll have to pay attention to the clutch (early/late- the pressure plate and throw out bearing have to match) and whether the nose cone is an early or late mount. Only the mount on the nose cone is different, so switching to fit the car isn't hard- just make sure all the shift rods are in neutral and it's easier to get the "hockey stick" (shift selector rod in the nose cone) in the right place. You'll know it's right when you've got all 4 gears plus reverse.
The trans probably has a 4.37 ring and pinion installed, so you may find the gearing a little "short"; it'll make it quicker off the line with a smaller engine, though, so it'll be more fun zipping around town!
If it's in good shape it'll be fine as long as you never dump the clutch and always "roll on" to the power. Change the gear oil and it'll last for a good while longer. Drive it for a while and if you do find the gearing too short, look for a trans out of a 1600 powered car, as it will have 3.88 r&p.
If you want to do burnouts, slap gears and drive it like a banshee, that's a whole 'nother story...Al
