New VS 356 Speedster

Mike...I can't remember who in SOC made up an extensive check list but it can be down-loaded on here. If you do everything on that list you will have made a good check and assesment  of your car. Also, Welcome to the Madness ! .......Bruce

If you have the car already you can take it to Greg Leach at Vintage Motorcars:

https://www.vintagespyders.com

He's in Hawaiian Gardens now.

I agree with Robert M.  Greg is in your back yard and is an excellent resource!

On a side note: I’ve been an owner for barely six months now and this site has been incredibly helpful when I have a question or issue.  The members here have a huge knowledge base and may have already trouble-shot any issues you may encounter.

Gordon had the most comprehensive checklist.  Maybe look in the resources area of this site.

I've got a used car at Vintage Motorcars right now being tweaked and perfected.  Two thumbs up recommendation!
-=theron

Thank you guys. Gordon’s checklist was helpful, as I tried to look for most of what he wrote except the tightness of the bolts. I have sway bars on the suspension, and the suspension is quite tight and stiff. Might be too still and may need to update to better shocks someday. Al in all seems like a good buy for me at an average price. Cars is getting an oil change and can’t wait. One thing I came across is that the engine bay should be sealed. Mine has gaps and I see daylight. Is that ok?  Do I need to have it addressed?  There are so many cooling features on the car that having the gaps sealed would not hurt. I took it for a drive and the ting was at less than a quarter up on the temp gauge. I assumed there’s an issue with the gauge but was told about the oil hopper and fan. Btw, what engine oil you guys use?  Synthetic ok? How often do you change?

Thanks, Mike

Do yourself a favor.  Take it to Greg at Vintage.  He will completely go through the car and tell you exactly what you need if anything.  He can do all maintenance going forward.  He is very honest.  No brainer.  I'm so jealous of you Cali guys who have shops like Vintage in your backyards.

You really do need to seal up the engine compartment. While the oil temp may be OK, the cylinder head temp might not. For a start,If you can see the backside of the tail lights from inside the engine compartment, you need to seal that whole area up. Common sense should tell you that if it isn't sealed up you are sucking up hot air that already went through the engine and is being recycled. Here's a few photos of how I did mine. It's not a difficult job...........Bruce

Been watching and reading quietly for some time.  This site is incredibly helpful and informative, and is the national library of all things practical for replica 356s/Spyders, and a good deal of replica and Porsche history.  I have referred it to many interested parties.  Speedster from Greg ready @ end of August.  A decision of the heart, not the head.  

If the gap you need to seal is the gap between the engine tin and the engine compartment you can use an "H" seal for a VW bus. There is a coated side and an uncoated side. the uncoated side goes toward the bottom. I will try to remember to take pics when I get home and will post them for reference unless someone else has some handy. Never mind, I stole some photos off of the internet:

If your gap looks like this:

Then you need a VW bus seal to do this:

Mike...I see you live in Sherman Oaks. I live in Arcadia Ca. There is a huge cars n coffee gathering every Sunday in Woodland Hills. When you have your car to a point that you trust driving it we could meet and I could look it over with you.....let me know....Bruce

Mike take Bruce up on his offer. He really knows what he is doing on these cars and can help you.

Robert M posted:

If the gap you need to seal is the gap between the engine tin and the engine compartment you can use an "H" seal for a VW bus. There is a coated side and an uncoated side. the uncoated side goes toward the bottom. I will try to remember to take pics when I get home and will post them for reference unless someone else has some handy. Never mind, I stole some photos off of the internet:

If your gap looks like this:

Then you need a VW bus seal to do this:

Is it foam?  Will it get hot and melt?

Mike Naz 356 posted:

Robert M posted:

If the gap you need to seal is the gap between the engine tin and the engine compartment you can use an "H" seal for a VW bus. There is a coated side and an uncoated side. the uncoated side goes toward the bottom. I will try to remember to take pics when I get home and will post them for reference unless someone else has some handy. Never mind, I stole some photos off of the internet:

If your gap looks like this:

Then you need a VW bus seal to do this:

Is it foam?  Will it get hot and melt?

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDe...Code=VWC-411-813-225

It's foam but one side is coated and won't melt.