X2. The doctor rules...
Bet you guys don't know that an older diesel can, run backwards when using cold start ether and it happens to kick in at the right moment the engine will start and run in reverse. The air cleaner becomes the exhaust and the exhaust becomes the intake. This is where it gets interesting as the trans reverse functions as granny gear low and you'll have ….13 speeds in reverse .
That’s gotta really mess up the air filter 😱
Yeah, those old diesels (mechanical fuel injection versions) could also get into a situation where they would eat their own oil and keep running even though the “engine stop” was engaged.
There are lots of reasons why they transitioned to modern EFI and better engine controls.
Fixed the issue with hitting the deck lid by lifting the body up just a little. Thanks Alan! Worked on the gas tank and where it sits, shortened the filler neck cleaned it up and painted it. Installed a new tank screen put some gas in it and started the motor for the first time in the car. Little tuning now.
https://www.facebook.com/type3...s/10161100425395551/
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I like the bracket! Isn't there usually a hole in the fiberglass to the right of the tank the lines go through? Hard to tell in the pic...
*LongFella posted:I like the bracket! Isn't there usually a hole in the fiberglass to the right of the tank the lines go through? Hard to tell in the pic...
Thanks! mine has no hole or the tubes. but the tank is lifted and they can go under it with out hitting anything. I'm going to redo the tubes. not liking the first bend.
My stinger is about 1" off the ground so i'm looking for a new exhaust, i like the sidewinder, it sits higher.
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some of them are designed so U can take the covers off and adjust the valves w/o taking the exhaust off, just a thought.
Sidewinders are fairly popular here; a number of Speedster owners run them. A1 is the most popular brand- there is even a Speedster specific option when ordering from Aircooled.net in the drop boxes as you're ordering (I believe the primary tubing and collector are tucked up a little higher, but don't quote me on that). As Bob mentioned, some are more "valve adjustment" friendly than others, but as most are really only opening the valve covers once a year some don't find it that big a deal.
I looked at several different exhaust extractors when I was doing my car and to be honest, any system that had to be removed from the engine just to do a valve check every Spring was a big non-starter for me. I mean, WHAT!?!?!?! I gotta pull the exhaust system out just to check the valves?
Nope...... Not gonna do that.
I ended up with a Berg Extractor with dual horizontal mufflers hanging out the back. Looks a little weird in an "Outlaw" kind of way, but once you get used to having some of your exhaust system prominently displayed under the rear valence and you realize that nothing is in the way of the valve covers, it takes on a new beauty of its' own......
Now, before all you guys start ranking on me about how you "only have to remove four bolts and my muffler falls right out of the way to it's no big deal".......
I don't have to remove nuthin' but valve covers. 
I had an A1 Sidewinder on mine and loved it. I did have to remove the muffler to get to the right side valves, but that’s easy. The header stayed in place.
Some folks with A1 Sidewinders have had custom mufflers made that tuck up under the rear valence and don't interfere with the valve covers.
I think the extractor headers themselves don't interfere.
It was the famous author @Terry Nuckels who best described this in his stream of consciousness novel, As I Lay Wrenching.
Sacto Mitch posted:
Some folks with A1 Sidewinders have had custom mufflers made that tuck up under the rear valence and don't interfere with the valve covers.
I think the extractor headers themselves don't interfere.
It was the famous author @Terry Nuckels who best described this in his stream of consciousness novel, As I Lay Wrenching.
I've built several A1 sidewinder exhausts that have no interference issues. and tuck completely out of sight.
Unfortunately no photo of Speedster replica unit at Aircooled.net
A-1 Performance Sidewinder MUFFLER, Fits SW112-SW158-SW134 Header, Speedster Kit Cars with Center Exiting Exhaust Pipe Base Price $299.95 (options ceramic coating, SS, etc).
A-1 Performance Sidewinder MUFFLER, Fits SW112-SW158-SW134 Header, Speedster Kit Cars with Center Exiting Exhaust Pipe offers a 2 1/2" Hi-Flo straight through core design for maximum power, with as little noise as possible! Center Exit "Looks Right". If you are looking at buying an A-1 product, it's obvious you value quality and want the BEST! Every A-1 exhaust product is hand made to order by a master exhaust system craftsman to the custom specs you submit for YOUR car! Outlet pipe is laterally adjustable, and once positioned can be secured with a set screw, pop rivet, or spot weld.
Think this is on Marty's old VS - (is it SS or silver powder coated?)
this one looks like it should clear the valves. i'll post up pics when its installed.
Sacto Mitch posted:
Some folks with A1 Sidewinders have had custom mufflers made that tuck up under the rear valence and don't interfere with the valve covers.
I think the extractor headers themselves don't interfere.
It was the famous author @Terry Nuckels who best described this in his stream of consciousness novel, As I Lay Wrenching.
Right you are, Mitch. No valve cover interference and a beautifully husky exhaust tone without being obnoxiously loud. Here is a photo of penny's derrier:
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That Terry Nuckles. One righteous dude.....
Why, thanks, Gordon. It takes one to know one 
TJ, you may have already seen this, but here is a video of what an A-1 Sidewinder sounds like on my VS.
Here are a couple of pics of the A-1 Sidewinder on my current VS.
Click on pics to enlarge...
And here's a picture showing the difference between an A-1 Sidewinder that is Speedster specific (tucked up under the rear apron) and my A-1 Sidewinder (not Speedster specific). Mine is on the right in the pic.
Hope you find this info useful!
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Kevin - Bay Area posted:@TJ Ward perhaps it’s just the photo, but in the image you attached 1/10/19 of the side of your car, the windscreen appears to buy a bit more upright than normal. Maybe it’s an optical illusion?
yeah i saw that before i had it made. i like it better. here is another one of Rafael's.
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Looks like the cowl shape is a bit different.
I like the snakey look of the exposed pipes - but it does become the lowest point of the vehicle (even below a large oil sump I suppose).
WOLFGANG posted:I like the snakey look of the exposed pipes - but it does become the lowest point of the vehicle (even below a large oil sump I suppose).
Bottoming out against the pipes won’t be as catastrophic as tearing off your oversized sump.
The resulting oil slick followed by a great number of sparks would leave a lasting impression on bystanders. Hopefully, it wouldn't be enough to ignite the magnesium transaxle case!
Who makes these at a better price? Would like to adapt one on the deck lid and ront hood.
That $105 price is actually pretty good, TJ.
might pick these up.
Grab 'em with both hands.
thinking of ordering the snaps and fasteners. not sure if i like the 1/2" Self-Tapping Screw Stud or the other with two screws. Whats better? i guess it all about looks. also not sure if i should install snaps on my top material. i have a bar holding it down so really don't need snaps for the top just the tonneau cover. SO should i install the screw stud under the top material?
https://www.sailrite.com/Loxx-...rface-Screw-Stud-Set
https://www.sailrite.com/Loxx-...Thick-Assemblies-Set
and the snaps.
@TJ Ward I can only speak to Vintage, as that is what I’m familiar with. I recently purchased the Full Tonneau from Greg at Vintage, as my speedster only had the 1/4 Tonneau.
Vintage uses the button snaps (or at least did with mine). The original Speedster uses Tenax fasteners (German Tenax, not English; there is a size difference). Also, from what I read, the original Speedsters had “GHE” stamped on the Tenax fastener. This is no longer available. They will have “LOXX” stamped on them.
I wanted to replace the outboard button snaps on my speedster with German Tenax. I ordered (13) German Tenax complete sets for the rear (complete as in post and fastener head). VS uses the 2-screw fasteners immediately behind each door. So I ordered (2) 2-screw German Tenax posts for these locations and matching Tenax heads.
Given it’s a full tonneau, I need to install Tenax fasteners on the top of the dash. I purschased (5) complete German Tenax sets for here (posts and small heads; 2 on driver side, 3 on passenger side).
And, since the convertible “emergency” top has button snaps, I need to replace all them. So I ordered (15) Tenax small heads for the top.
Lastly, I ordered (2) additional Tenax posts and heads for the doors. Some original Speedsters have fasteners just forward the back of the doors to keep the tonneau cover in place (at least on the passenger side).
I plan on on keeping the button snaps on the interior of the car, At the corner of the windshield posts and on the inside of the rear cowl.
I’m not going to lie. Tenax are $$$$$$. The cost of the fasteners and shipping exceed the cost of installation.
Any better prices on German Tenax than this site?
http://www.boatcanvashardware....cZZgTBCRQaAmE88P8HAQ
I like that they have nickel plated - as well as chrome.
So that's what Canadian give when they say "Here's my 2 cents"?
WOLFGANG posted:Any better prices on German Tenax than this site?
http://www.boatcanvashardware....cZZgTBCRQaAmE88P8HAQ
I like that they have nickel plated - as well as chrome.
man - those are good prices! i paid A LOT more than that for each piece. plus shipping from the UK.