Woo Hoo! Let the fun begin. Would be nice to watch your progress with pics as you go along. Best of luck with your project, TJ! 
@TJ Ward
Gordon Nichols posted:Like the rug, dude....
It really ties the room together.
Has anyone ever tried using a Super Beetle Pan including the 914 front end... ?
where can i find the little piece i need to rivet on to hold the headlights in?
I made these, should work fine. 
I made mine, too. Pretty much the same thing.
FYI, On my car they are curved and follow the contour of the light bucket and about twice the width of those... then riveted to the body
IaM-Ray posted:Has anyone ever tried using a Super Beetle Pan including the 914 front end... ?
The 914 lower torsion arms won't bolt to the Super front end frame nor will the structs have any where to bolt to (no steel uni-body upper piece).
914 front suspension -
Super front suspension -
Thanks for posting that Wolfgang... 
any info on the hole measurements for the front blinkers and grills?
TJ,
There is a member on this site, Manny, that has put together an excellent guide on the various dimensions needed when building a Speedster.
The CMC or FF build manual in the SOC Library also has measurements for drilling/cutting mounting holes. I'd compare the 2 - measure 2x and cut once! It's available to donating members.
"any info on the hole measurements for the front blinkers and grills? "
Light: Use Manny's specs for location of the light
bulbholder Main hole = 3/4"
Mounting screw holes = 5/32
Horn Grill: Use Manny's specs for location of the grill (different years, different heights).
The big hole follows a scribe mark in the fiberglass on CMC/FF bodies.
The mounting screws are metric, but a 4-40 seems to fit, too, and will require a 1/8" hole for the screw.
And yes, all this stuff is in the Fiberfab 1985 assembly manual (but Manny's specs are better).
you guys using rivet nuts for the headlights? thinking about these.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#97217a444/=1amirg4
Where would you use it? For the screw holding the trim ring down to the body just below the headlight or elsewhere? It might be a good idea just below the headlight - you could remove the trim ring without reaching under the car to hold the nut!
My only concern would be to get it tightly pressed into the fiberglass with enough “bite” to stay put while tightening/loosening the trim screw but without causing any cracks in the paint around the hole. They can be installed with a hand wrench, but my experience with them is only with a pneumatic riv-tool. THOSE are like welded in once installed, but we always used them in metal.
TJ Ward posted:you guys using rivet nuts for the headlights? thinking about these.
You'll need the tool to put that in, should you go that direction. I use these rivet nuts for many, many things when fabricating or securing into sheet-metal. They are the mac-daddy.
yeah for the below the headlight. I was thinking it wasn't going to get tight and start spinning in the hole. I'll get some and test them out on something else.
I'd go with the aluminum riv-nut there & avoid any chance of a rust bleed later. They sell ribbed ones to bite better, but in my experience they seldom spin once they're in.
I still plan on putting some adhesive on it to help on it into place and never come of.
is the second circle the headlight rim or the bucket? 
the
The chrome trim ring.
Looks good TJ. I used aluminum rivnuts in both my Spyders for the bottom headlight screw. I found some nice Stainless Steel 1/4-20 screws to hold the headlights in. Got the rivnut squeezer and nuts at Harbor Freight.
TJ, Your car is looking great. I went down to CMC back in the 80s when they were building mine. I should have taken pics. It was quite a production operation there in Miami. I think I still taste the fiberglass dust!
Good luck with your build. You certainly have some great advisers in this group. I wish I had this resource back when I built mine. I have the CMC build book if you need anything copied. Have some fun every day!
Donating member of SOC can pull down 2 FF and 2 CMC build manuals (covering different years) from the RESOURCES/LIBRARY tab here on SOC. For some reason I'm not see those tabs today? It worth while printing the manuals off even if you don't have a CMC or FF - they are useful with early IM/VS/JPS - any VW pan based Speedster.
Building was 160,000 sq feet with a 45 foot tall rotating display tower! (Torn down and now a shopping center)
I have FF manual. But will join soon after Christmas and get the latest one.
My new toy. 
yep. Those work.
now to measure the holes 100 times before i drill. i keep coming up 2/16 off from each other.
TJ Ward posted:now to measure the holes 100 times before i drill. i keep coming up 2/16 off from each other.
At least it's not 1/8 off. 
yeah—2/16 is within spec. 1/8 would be too much. If I were you I'd try to get it to within 3.175 millimeters.
Haha...
That looks like a smily face.
TJ, that's the one(nutsert tool). Car looks good.
Ed. Wise ass. LOL!
The best i could get it was 4/32. 
forgot this picture. 
TJ Ward posted:forgot this picture.
I like this. My bolts go all the way through and I have to hold a socket and a Nyloc nut on the back to secure mine.
Now that you have the Nut Certs in , they're fine but when you install the headlight ring bolt , try dabbing some caulk on the threads , this will keep the bolt from vibrating loose . I would not use Loc Tite blue because you may end up spinning the nut cert when removing the bolt. I use stainless Allen1/4 -20 and a NyLoc nut