If you're lucky enough to find a mechanical tachometer drive for a 356, it takes the place of the oil pump cover and will fit a Type 1. I had one on my first Dune Buggy as a gift from one of my mentors. You end up with a loooong drive cable from the engine to the dash.
TJ Ward posted:i can use a vw cable for the speedo, and yeah i have tons of 12v bulbs. i do 6v to 12v conversions a lot for people here in San Antonio. Prefer not to use electric, i know it's way better but I wanna be more authentic with this build.
If you're getting off on building it (your plastic car with VW suspension, transaxle and engine) more authentic that's great, but just be aware that most P owners won't really care (it doesn't have a P vin #- end of discussion). Everyone else (and I do mean everyone!) will think it's cool no matter what you do (including this great group of poopieheads here). Al
DrClock always uses the wiring harness from the old Hawaiian Gardens Vintage Speedster. As for many of the other parts - I'd go with VintageSpeedsterParts based on price. it was said here that they supply many of the replica parts to the other Speedster Builders. They don't carry everything on your list and some of their prices recently jumped. As for the Porsche rubber gaskets for various trim pieces - I'd wait til they are needed and order from Klasse356. I don't think any of the Vintages carry those rubber parts. Klasse also carries the "gold" P badging.
Other than no rust bubbles the biggest replica giveaway is the tall center tunnel with the VW pullup hand brake. Go with an umbrella handle hand brake under the dash.
I've used VS for most of my builds because I know every wire placement by color, however you need to add in loops for gauges , grounds etc. I am not familiar with Beck but I will assume it is a well configured harness and probably is more complete.
I should have realized my "authentic" build was doomed when the gas tank din't fit. Well, i can use emblems. lol
The bug i was working on rolled out of the garage this morning. Disc brakes and a bunch of little things missed by the builder. Well failed the fix, Headliner not sticking, not the right rubber on a number of things, paint over over spray, glove box now opens and closes, dash vent now stay in place and the correct trim clip are installed. The customs rim also din't fit the disc brakes, had to get spacers to clear the caliper. Stanch look way better.
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DannyP posted:Greg at Vintage Motorcars(who hired the crew and took over old premises of Vintage Speedsters in CA, but may not have all inventory due to setting up shop currently),
or Beck/Special Edition in Indiana.
Greg has all of it - just a matter of putting it all together and shipping out.
*LongFella posted:DannyP posted:Greg at Vintage Motorcars(who hired the crew and took over old premises of Vintage Speedsters in CA, but may not have all inventory due to setting up shop currently),
or Beck/Special Edition in Indiana.
Greg has all of it - just a matter of putting it all together and shipping out.
i sent Greg, Justin and Kevin and email and just Justin replayed but still no quote yet.
TJ Ward posted:*LongFella posted:DannyP posted:Greg at Vintage Motorcars(who hired the crew and took over old premises of Vintage Speedsters in CA, but may not have all inventory due to setting up shop currently),
or Beck/Special Edition in Indiana.
Greg has all of it - just a matter of putting it all together and shipping out.
i sent Greg, Justin and Kevin and email and just Justin replayed but still no quote yet.
I can send Greg a text and get his butt moving...
Even some of the parts I ordered from him for my coupe is taking some time. I think he is hoping to be in the new shop 100% by month end.
i'm sure he'll get to me soon. Not much i need from him anyway. the rest will be from VSP and im356.
TJ Ward,
I looked through my inbox and do not see any emails from you. Can you resend to AnnaK@vintagespyders.com
We are right in the middle of Moving the Office but we can still get you taken care of.
Greg
VSpyder posted:TJ Ward,
I looked through my inbox and do not see any emails from you. Can you resend to AnnaK@vintagespyders.com
We are right in the middle of Moving the Office but we can still get you taken care of.
Greg
i sent it through the web site. here https://www.vintagespyders.com/contact-us/
I'll send one now to the address above. Thanks
I didn't like the spray bed liner i put on the bottom, it didn't set right. I was able to scrap it all off with a putty knife and a grinder, took 2 days but i was able to get it all off. Then I coated the pan with por15, just finished the second coat. Also scored some stuff at a swap meet today, early bug shifter and a column.
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I'm always cautious of EMPI. Here's a single reviewer that faults them.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XJsOMuvpghI
WOLFGANG posted:I'm always cautious of EMPI. Here's a single reviewer that faults them.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XJsOMuvpghI
yeah I've seen that.
Had to pull the beam back apart to have the ball joints re-done. And done right this time. After installing the brakes i couldn't turn ,looked at the ball joints marks and they were way off. Finished installing all new brakes lines and I finished the pedal assembly. It looks brand new. Just need the gas pedal spring. Shifter is reconditioned with a short shift kit. E-Brake is reconditioned with a white button. Just need the pivot pin, installed new cables. Pan seal is done. Rear Bearings installed with new seals and Rear brakes painted and new cylinders installed. Everything was done and then I realized my shoes are to wide for my early drums. Lol back apart. I'll pick up some early shoes and my ball joints should be ready Tuesday. I need to start looking at tires, should be ready to set on the ground and mount the body this weekend, I hope. Also scored a rebuilt transaxle. Still need to shorten the clutch cable tube, had to add a new one, this was an automatic pan. and install the clutch cable when it gets here. How far does the tube stick out from the pan?
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I've read that one way to improve rear braking with 205x5 drums is to use the later, wider shoes. Upgrade with 924 19mmrear wheel cylilnders (stock is 17mm), and get the drums cut 1/4" deeper to accommodate the wider shoes. Danny Piperato had done it and said it did improve things. He's since moved onto rear discs but the rear drum assemblies made it onto someone else's car.
TJ, looks like you are getting it going on the right path.
Clutch tube ought to stick out about half or three-quarters of an inch proud of the tunnel exit, as I recall. Had to cut mine back a little to get closer to the proper bowden tube bend in Bridget after I set my engine back.
Two things, TJ; Most of the VW ball joints we're getting these days are from Asia (although Bug City has German ones, too) and a few NOS ones from Brazil. The Asian ones tend to sometimes be really tight after installing them (like the steering is hard to turn). Just so you know. The only remedy I know is to replace the stiff one.
Second, have you already bought an E-Brake pivot pin? I know they're cheap, but I may have one and the c-clips kicking around. If I can find it and the clips I'll mail it.
Gordon Nichols posted:Two things, TJ; Most of the VW ball joints we're getting these days are from Asia (although Bug City has German ones, too) and a few NOS ones from Brazil. The Asian ones tend to sometimes be really tight after installing them (like the steering is hard to turn). Just so you know. The only remedy I know is to replace the stiff one.
Second, have you already bought an E-Brake pivot pin? I know they're cheap, but I may have one and the c-clips kicking around. If I can find it and the clips I'll mail it.
yeah these have a mark that lines up with the arm and the guy i had do them didn't know , all 4 were 45* off.
No i have not found a pivot pin yet, the vw shop didn't have any. He said he would have the pin and the spring i need tomorrow when i pick up my ball joints. I'll let you know if he doesn't find one. Thanks
TJ Ward posted:Which way looks better. I have about two sixteenths of an inch off either on the top or the bottom.
straight 
Are you going to have a rubber gasket under the grill?
TJ Ward posted:Which way looks better. I have about two sixteenths of an inch off either on the top or the bottom.
2/16ths?... thats not too bad. At least its not 1/8th.
Grill: Make up small pieces of flat rubber to take up the space between the lid and grill
E' Brake pin: just use a bolt and a Nyloc nut
TRP posted:TJ Ward posted:Which way looks better. I have about two sixteenths of an inch off either on the top or the bottom.
2/16ths?... thats not too bad. At least its not 1/8th.
you've already made that joke, getting kinda old.
Well, lots of us on this site needs things repeated to us 'cause we forget them...we're getting kinda old also. 
Jethro posted:TJ Ward posted:now to measure the holes 100 times before i drill. i keep coming up 2/16 off from each other.
At least it's not 1/8 off.
Hey TJ -
It wasn't me the first time. It's okay, I understand the confusion. What I don't understand is not reducing fractions. 
Ted
Repeating things twice is how things are emphasized in semetic languages as well ... I guess that is really old too
My wife feels the need to repeat things 10 or 20 times. She thinks it is necessary for me to get it
Michael McKelvey posted:My wife feels the need to repeat things 10 or 20 times. She thinks it is necessary for me to get it
Can you repeat that? 
Repeat what...?
IaM-Ray posted:TJ Ward posted:Which way looks better. I have about two sixteenths of an inch off either on the top or the bottom.
straight
Are you going to have a rubber gasket under the grill?
I have the seal yes.
0.1250” not very complicated. 2/16, 1/8, 4/32, What’s the diff? Nothing! Not worth talking about. Right?
Those will work. A good hack is to drill the set screw hole a little deeper, and/or drill and tap for a second set screw on the other side.
TJ Ward posted:Is this what everyone is using for the e-brake cables?
Yes - that is what I used in my Speedster and Coupe builds..
I install the rear brakes and e-brake cable. Run it through the tubes up to the handle... measure the length and cut the extra length off... attach the little pieces... done...
I'm sure I've got a picture on my Speedster build thread of it 
You should upgrade the bulbs for brighter ones...