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Newbie in need of some advice regarding pan selection and shortening.

FM Former Member
Hi Guys. I have long been a volkswagon enthusiast and have built several VWs. I am now venturing into the realm of speedsters and needed some advice. I was in the process of my latest VW project and had stripped the body off and was doing a pan resto. I welded new floorpans onto my IRS suspention, had the whole thing sand blasted and powder coated. I converted to disk brakes all the way around with custom drilled patterns. I put adjustable spring plates on the back and an adjustable front end with 2 1/2 dropped spindles. The frame is completely rolling and ready for a VW body. Well I recently came across a great deal on a speedster body that I decided to purchase (I haven't picked it up yet). The purchase also came with a swing axle frame that has already been cut to length. My dilemma is this. I heard the IRS pans were preferred for speedster setups. Should I tear mine back down, and cut it to length and get it re powder coated after the mods, or go with the other frame? Also, were the front ends the same on the older frames as post 70s? Or will I have to use an older style front end? Furthermore, if I opted to go with the swing axle pan, could I still utilize my rear disk brake setup or is that just specific to IRS type setups. Please excuse my ignorance with all of this. I'm very excited yet a little confused at the same time. Thanks in advance for your help and suggestions!
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FM Former Member
Hi Guys. I have long been a volkswagon enthusiast and have built several VWs. I am now venturing into the realm of speedsters and needed some advice. I was in the process of my latest VW project and had stripped the body off and was doing a pan resto. I welded new floorpans onto my IRS suspention, had the whole thing sand blasted and powder coated. I converted to disk brakes all the way around with custom drilled patterns. I put adjustable spring plates on the back and an adjustable front end with 2 1/2 dropped spindles. The frame is completely rolling and ready for a VW body. Well I recently came across a great deal on a speedster body that I decided to purchase (I haven't picked it up yet). The purchase also came with a swing axle frame that has already been cut to length. My dilemma is this. I heard the IRS pans were preferred for speedster setups. Should I tear mine back down, and cut it to length and get it re powder coated after the mods, or go with the other frame? Also, were the front ends the same on the older frames as post 70s? Or will I have to use an older style front end? Furthermore, if I opted to go with the swing axle pan, could I still utilize my rear disk brake setup or is that just specific to IRS type setups. Please excuse my ignorance with all of this. I'm very excited yet a little confused at the same time. Thanks in advance for your help and suggestions!
WOLFGANGWOLFGANG'89 CMC FWB, FL Supporting Member
The old link pin/swing axel pan is probably more authentic for a classic speedster - but the IRS one will handle better (especially with mods you've done to it). It might come down to which is easier to register in your state. With the Speedster body you are getting - is it already titled and registered? If not, do you have the kit body manufacture's Statement of Origin and the VW donor title with VIN plates? Some states are easy on registering kit cars --- other are impossibly difficult. Of course if flared body Speedster I'd go with the newer chassis just to match performance with look.
FM Former Member
Thanks for your quick reply wolfgang. Yes it is a flared body. I don't have the statement from the manufacturer of the kit stating the orgin; however, I do have a clear title from the donor vechicle. I live in Texas, and am not familiar with how strict they are with registering these types of vehicles.
FM Former Member
Wolf said it all but I add this question: Is the Bug body and the rest of the car in really fine shape? If it is I'd just re-assemble/restore the Bug and look for a pan elsewhere; you can get those fairly easily without having to erase a Bug from existence. Remember Bugs (and air cooled VW's for that matter) aren't being manufactured anymore and although over 21 million were made they're getting rarer by the second.
FM Former Member
Actually Ricardo, the body was badly beaten up so I sold it for parts and was planning on putting an older body on it until I found the great deal on this kit. As I said before, the kit comes with a frame that has been cut and tack welded, but it's swing axle. So I was trying to figure out what everyone suggested. Also, can you use a ball joint front end with these kits or do you have to have a link pin? Thanks again!
FM Former Member
You can use whatever front end you want, as long as it is a Bug. If that's the case go for the Speedster!!!! I have a swingaxle in my car. If you prefer the stock look and stance of an original 356 go for that if not the IRS performs better. Still, though, for around $50 or $60 and 30 minutes install time you can put a Bugpack or EMPI camber compensator on your swingaxle and it will make the car more stable and safer to drive in the twisties. I did and you can definitely feel the difference.

If the frame that's already shortened and comes with the body is already titled go with it. I suppose you have the title to your chassis. If the shortened chassis doesn't have the title it could be a nightmare depending on the state. In some if you have a Bill of Sale and some other legal paperwork it's enough to issue you a title. Also think that by going with the shortened chassis you have another one for another project. Just my .02....
WOLFGANGWOLFGANG'89 CMC FWB, FL Supporting Member
The "Statement of Origin" looks just like a title to a vehicle and comes with the kit body (at least CMC did back in 1989). It and the donor's chassis title make registration a whole lot easier. I have a id plate with the body number from CMC as well as the plate from the VW donor (as well as the windshield plate and the original number that is stamped in chassis back by the shifter tube inspection plate (suspect that is the only really required id for the chassis).
FM Former Member
Thanks again Wolf. I'm thinking that I may just try and undergo the frame cutting on my completed pan so that I can maintain the IRS suspension and other goodies. I know there is a build manual for the CMC and Fiberfab kits on this site, but they are kind of hard to read. Anyone know where I can get the specifics to cut the frame as suggested by most people? Any help is greatly appreciated. And thanks so much guys for all your responses...it's really great to become a part of such an active community!
FM Former Member
Sorry; I meant to say jpg files. You can read them by opening the photo with Internet Explorer; just put the cursor on top of it and on the lower right corner you'll see a little square that will pop-up; just click on it and it will zoom it to normal size. If you open the files with Windows Picture viewer just click on the zoom button at the bottom; it's a good idea to print the book and bind it.
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