Newbie needs advice

I have just joined so if I break some rules please forgive. I am on the verge of ordering a turnkey RSK from TR in California. Is there something that I must have as far as options are concerned but I am not aware of yet. I feel a roll bar is important but Tom discourages me from getting a 5 pt. harness if I go with the RBar. What upgrades does a 550 veteran recommend as this is just a redesigned 550. Also just an idea, is it feasable to use a fuel bladder in the front [as what is very common in aircraft] to reduce chance of fire in case of collision? Please don't blow this question off as mybest friend burned to death last month when his pickup hit a bridge. These cars are racers, I know, and being light and small are inherently subject to more damage but if it is feasable to make it a little safer then what do you think?
I am in Topeka Ks. so I would be glad to hear from anyone in the Kansas City area so I could see your cars and find out about local events. Thanking all of you in advance, Larry Hargreaves 785 266 3533 office and 785 266 6605 home

Welcome Larry. Since you posted on the anything goes page, everybody gets to read your post. I happened to read the article about the RSK in the December 2003 issue of Kit Car Builder and it sure got my attention. It has beautiful lines and will probably be a rare bird which I count as a plus. You must be one of the early customers since these cars are not well known (yet) in the kit car family.

A fuel bladder sounds like an excellent idea if an appropriate one can be found to fit and TR is willing to do this. As far as the roll bar/5 point seat belt combination goes, why was this idea discouraged if you don't mind my asking? Racing harnesses can be great, but if not fitted correctly, they can do more harm than good. How do you spell crushed vertebrae?

In any event, this sounds like an exciting project and I hope you will continue to post on this venue so those of us who are interested can follow your progress.
John H.

Personally, I would NEVER wear a 5 point harness UNLESS I had a roll bar properly triangulated. The problem with shoulder straps and no roll bar is your head now becomes a "very soft" roll bar.

Not that it matters but """MAYBE""" you'd have time to duck and cover if you were involved in a collision where as if your shoulders were strapped in, you head would take the brunt of the crash. (Especially in an open top car, Remember, Porsche installed a roll bar in the Targa and has pop up roll bars in their Cabriolet model.)

During my days of high speed driving during vehicle tests, I never wore shoulder harnesses unless the car had a roll bar and, all of the other test drivers did the same.

A racing style fuel tank is always a positive as they generally don't allow fuel to leak if you're involved in a collision but, they are expensive.

I'd make sure that you have a ""solid"" transaxle, a reliable shifter mechanism, disc brakes all around with dual master cylinders, hydraulic clutch mechanism, 5 bolt wheels with drum skins and a very reliable engine with the proper cooling system.

Any other do-dads are your choice

Thank you John and Larry I am excited to get such a quick and possitive response. Regarding the 718RSK at TR, Tom tells me that have built 13 and have three in progress. I.m planning a two day trip to CA. to watch the progress and ask questions. If anyone has any old info[or new for that matter] on the original RSK's or publications I would appreciate it for my personal education.

Regarding the shoulder harness issure, I may have misunderstood Tom but he led me to believe that if I was pulled back tight and couldn't duck down my head would be above the roll bar and more susceptable to injury. I will have time to sort this out with him when I get there. Also if any of the RSK owners that Tom built for are watching I would also like your feed back. Hopefull TR will give the the names of the new owners. They use a SCAT engine and more durable transaxle. Go to their website for more info. They seem to be focusing on the RSK at their shop and recommend Bill Metcal in Penn. at Thunderranch East. It's nice to know that east coast guys have someone closer.

Do you think I should try to drive my car back 1500mi. or ship it for $600. Larry in Kansas

Also, any idea where I could locate a fuel bladder. Maybe I could try to locate an aircraft manufacturer or are there peoplewho do it specifically for cars. I won't be racing but these small cars are so v ulnerable I think it would be a nice safety edge if not too expensive. Larry

Larry:

Try Summit Racing's website, or google "automotive fuel cell".

ALL of the NASCAR style cars have fuel cells, as do many of the SCCA racing classes - they're readily available for cars if you find out where to look.

Larry,

Ship it.

Larry,

Re: Drive/Ship

If you are fairly mechanically inclined I'd say pack a tool kit and some spares, throw caution to the wind and drive it! Sounds like it would be a fun adventure. Heck, you are buying a car to drive correct?

If your mechanical abilities are challenged by an oil change then it may be wise to ship the car. During the break in period you may have to make some adjustments on the fly, replace a belt, clean some plugs, tighten up a variety of nuts and bolts etc.

All depends on your confidence and abilities. It ain't rocket science!

Congratulations on your new ride.

As a new member I can't help but notice the very attractive red car in Orlando with 300 bhp. Any adviced about buying this as opposed to a TR 718RSk? What's the better deal?
Just throwing this into the air for discussion. Larry in Kansas

Larry ,

For $600 ship it and enjoy the peace of mind of putting the first miles on it closer to home and your personal stash of this and that tools

Alan M

Larry, I don't know where you live but $600. to ship your car is a steal. Mine , from Ca. to Alabama [enclosed] was $1500. Still, when you factor in lost time from work, food on the road, motels, [you'll want a cover of some kind to keep out the prying eyes while you sleep]. Then consider kg's wisdom of repairs and adjustments on the road and what it takes to PROPERLY break in an engine. Yep, it would be a great adventure, and terrific memories'[I even considered maybe a magazine story last year when I got my Beck] I was glad I had the car delivered. It is MUCH more enjoyable to tinker, adjust, fix, or seek assistance near home with people you know or at least go back to if needs be. Ship the car and enjoy your first experiences with it. NOT aggravation!!!!.

Larry, just my 2 cents worth but 300 hp is too much for these cars unless they have extensive mods to frame, brakes,etc. And in my case I'd need extensive mods to me and a box of Depends when I drove it.
ed

If you're referring to the dark red Beck with a turbo/injected engine, it's a jewel and with all of the additions, it's a steal:

www.spyderclub.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=5878

I found a CA company that specificallymakes fuel cells for racing and they're only about $120-180 so I think I will TR put one in instead of the standard metal tank. I consider this a major safety must have. Larry

Actually, if it is C's car, it is in fact a Vintage, with cb turbo/injected powerplant and white powdercoated frame. Not even close to a "standard" silver/red/type1 carbureted SPyder like mine and most everyone elses. I think his also has 4 disc brakes, among the many custom mods he did. There used to be a build website for the car, I learned a lot by surfing it. I'm sure whoever buys it will get a cd full of info. There can NEVER be enough power.

Larry hi.I read your post.I will check my Porsche magazines for any info on the RSK.By the way,I am in Kansas City (near the airport).I do not have an RSK but a 1994 CMC speedster.

Just talked to Tom at TR and I completely misunderstood him about the roll bar and the 5pt. belt issue. Also he said he would put a bladder the aluminum tank at very little extra cost so I don't have to put something in and have him try to retrofit it. I think everyone should consider this as a saftey must have option. My car starts to build in 2-3 weeks.Should I go glass or plexiglass?

Glass or plexi-glass

doesn't Kansas have a lot of flying bugs???

Check registration issues before the glass vs. plexi issue.

Does anyone know of a book or mag. that gives the evolution of the Porsche racing cars from the 550, RSK and on.

Try Amazon for:
Porsche Spyders Type 550 1953 - 1956
Ludvigsen Library series

Deals mainly with the 550 but has info on other models
good book for your library

The owner of the 1st TR RSK said I should have the builder do a jet hotcoatingon the exhaust during construction as he only has a thousand miles on his and it is already showing some rust. Are any of you familiar with procedure?

We jet-coat everything (and will soon jet-coat the spyder's full exhaust over winter). My chevy powered Jaguar has the exhaust manifolds coated. They run so cool you can put your hand on the manifolds even when the engine has been running for an hour! Wouldn't want to hold it there a long time, but you can definately put your hand on it safely. The coating has been on for 4-5 years now with no problems. Keeps the engine bay much cooler

Word of warning. Touching the manifold is fun to show your friends, but as soon as you shut the engine off, the manifold heat-soaks and LOOK OUT ITS REALLY HOT and will burn you when just a a couple of minutes ago you could touch it. Steve can show you his scar from that...

Anyway, definately jet-coat the exhaust. Looks great, runs cool, lasts longer.
angela

My Vintage exhaust is two years old with admittedly little running time(just fired it up this summer). Ceramic coating looks like the day I got the exhaust delivered, definitely do it, a new exhaust will cost a minimum of 500 bucks, to maybe a grand.

I had my ancient Beck exhaust coated after it was 17 years old and it did start rusting after about a year. I returned to the shop that coated it and they redid it for free.

Larry,
I received a quote from Chris at Jet Hot Coatings to coat the pipes on my RSK.
The price was $165.00 for the header plus $15.00 per foot for the additional pipe. The process takes 3 to 5 days to complete.
The Jet Hot number is 800-432-3379
Mike

My exhaust was 13 years old and I got it done for $75 at www.kymcovw.com. Mine had surface rust on it and they blasted that off and then coated it...still looks nice one year later (except for all the burnt oil on it...)
MIke

A friend of mine is a Subaru nut, and his friends are having problems with not enough heat to the cat after header installation. My answer to this problem: ceramic coat the header, that way more of the heat is carried back to the cat. Does this sound right to you guys?

I called Tom at TR and he said they automatically do a similar jet coat procedure to the sebring exhaust so I guess that is just a standard procedure for the new RSK's. Mine will be #7. I called the local Porsche Club to see if my car would be eligible. I shouldn't have wasted my time. Tom will have a complete series of build pictures for the cars history. Regards to all. Larry