Newbie with a 2110

Scott- An 82mm stroke, stock rod length and B piston engine should be close to stock width so regular cylinder covers should fit just fine; you can push them in a little bit if needed. You may end up shortening the cylinders or cutting the deck on the case to get your deck height (distance from the top of the piston to the top of the cylinder at Top Dead Center). Ideal deck height is .040- .060", with the combustion chamber volume in the head adjusted to give your intended compression ratio. People say that much more deck and the engine will tend to be a little lazy, carbon up the combustion chambers more than normal, be a little harder to tune, even run a little hot and ping unnecessarily.

 With your raised deck case, if anything you may have to trim the covers a little. A hint- judge and adjust the cylinder tin fit with the generator (or alternator) stand and fan shroud in place; the fit around the ends of the shroud is important and you don't want to be too wide or narrow. If done right, the shroud will slip right down and the end bolts snug the cylinder covers down just like they're supposed to, without any extra metal covering the holes (if too wide) or cutting and modifying the sides of the covers to make the opening wider (if too narrow). When it comes to this time, send me a dialog if they don't fit and I'll help you get them adjusted. 

You may be bashing/cutting the cylinder covers up a little, so having them powdercoated afterwards should be the plan. Al

Gordon- Great to hear your experiences confirm it! Thanks for the info.

Good catch, Stan; I totally missed that it's a 76x94 and not a more conventional 82mm stroke engine. It will be a little wider, but getting the cylinder covers won't be a problem.

And the exhaust- You're also right in that it depends on where you want the powerband to be; in your case, with the 1 1/2" (in a 2110 good to 5850rpm, according to James Beahm's header size chart) it's right where we do most of our driving. The 1 5/8" will go to almost 7,000rpm, but (again, according to the chart) airspeed falls off below 2700rpm, vs 2300rpm for the 1 1/2" header. That said, lots of people will still go for the bigger tubes to maximize power all the up to redline, as an big engine like that already has lots of torque. It all depends on what you want.... 

I know this is a minor point, but Scott's 2110 is not the traditional 90.5 x 82 mm 2110. It's a 78 x 94 mm 2110, so the entire package will perform a bit differently. It's not going to affect what he needs for tin, etc.-- but it is something to keep in mind.

I'm probably going to catch a bit of flack for this, but I observe what I observe. Conventional wisdom dictates that a 2110 have a 1-5/8" header, which means a very expensive set of custom heater boxes, if that's what a guy chooses. I'm out here in California with a 2110 running a 1-1/2" header (after running a similar engine with a 1-5/8" header), and I can say I like the powerband I've got now better than what I had with the bigger header. The difference is minuscule. 1-1/2" flanged heater boxes are not grossly overpriced, as Bugpack or somebody similar markets them to the masses.

If a guy might ever want heat, going with the 1-1/2" sidewinder set up for flanged boxes seems like the smarter way to go. I would not get the shroud with heat outputs, as I think cooling air out to be used for cooling. There are other options to get air through the heater boxes. If there is even a thought of future heat, no other change needs to be made-- just get the exhaust set up for flanged boxes, and get flanged J-pipes. The side benefit is that running a thermostat and flaps is WAY easier.

It's just my opinion, but it comes (yet again) from having to buy a bunch of stuff 2 or 3 times. Forewarned is forearmed.