Facts are facts!
Topside air is needed. Lots of it. Standoff's help a good deal.
Like it or not, it works.
molleur posted:Facts are facts!
Topside air is needed. Lots of it. Standoff's help a good deal.
Like it or not, it works.
Lots of people have established that, both subjectively and objectively.
But on this site, we jump on people for not sealing the engine compartment with surround tin-- then advocate leaving a gap in it to "get air from the bottom" or cut a hole in the firewall for the same reason.
What these cars need is topside air. Standoffs (either on the leading or trailing edge) on the deck lid work, everybody that's ever had them can prove it. I'm 100% sure opening up the rain tray would work as well. Why we keep rehashing this remains one of the great SOC mysteries.
I would suggest to do both in a hot climate.
I think we keep rehashing this because most of the evidence is circumstantial.
Car A runs cool, so the last change made to it is credited with making it run cool. The same for Car B and Car C. Each owner has found a way to keep his car from overheating and thinks he's found the keys to the castle. But they're really only the keys to his castle, and won't necessarily open the door for someone else.
It's a very complicated equation. Every engine runs a little differently, makes different amounts of heat in various circumstances, and will dissipate that heat differently, depending on how it's configured. Every car lives in a different place - different climate, different driver, different roads.
And every engine bay is a little different, too, depending on what is open to the outside and what isn't, and which tins are in place. Take a look at how complex the VW tin system eventually became to appreciate just how complicated a problem the VW engineers thought it was.
Few of us have the necessary engineering credentials to do an appropriate analysis of our individual cars to see how best to cool them. And none of us has the needed equipment to do the job right. You need more than a thermometer and some string.
Like it or not, we are all just shooting in the dark. Sometimes we get lucky and hit the target, but we never really know if the bullet didn't ricochet off two walls and a frying pan before finding the mark.
Stan..... you brought up a good question for me. How would I look up all those reports I did when I was testing positive and negative pressures in/on and under my Speedster? It may have been in 2014.
The real culprit is that rain tray and there are definitely ways to improve it to improve the cooling. I never needed that hole in the firewall either. I'll probably drag out the ole trusty manometer again when I get my Spyder up and running. It's always fun and interesting and I get to drive more too !!.............Bruce
Ahhh-h-h-h-h, so that is why it took awhile for someone to answer.
aircooled posted:The real culprit is that rain tray and there are definitely ways to improve it to improve the cooling.
Well please, do tell.
Alan Merklin posted:To add tension to the banjo wheel, tap on each of the three cross bars drawing them to the center, they will stay in place for awhile but after some steering wheel use they tend to back off tension. The fix is a spot of Super glue.
Wow! I didn't even have to tap on them. I just used my hands to pull the crossbars toward the hub. I guess they were really loose. I couldn't use my CA glue, (woodworkers call super glue, CA glue), because the tip was glued shut yesterday. Got another tip from my wife, so will throw some glue at it today.
Is the super glue needed just on the repro wheels? The original Porsche banjo wheels were adjusted the same way, but once the bars were tapped in they tended to stay put all by themselves by the tension of the wires. Then, you could re-adjust them every so often.
It retains the cross bar in place to maintain tension on the wires....has worked for me, your mileage may vary.
Darn!
When fitted to the column, there is a gap between the two sides of the turn signal housing. That isn't normal is it? Cuz it sure is ugly. It never occurred to me that there might exist two or more different diameter bug columns. The column and the turn signal are parts that came with the car, so I never thought to check to see if they fit. Here is my question? Are there different diameter VW bug steering columns?
This housing was black, so I sanded it all down, primered it, and painted it to match. Que lastima.
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The early columns are narrower and your signal switch is for that application.
I had one from an early bus that I put on my JPS. The bus column is smaller in OD than any Beetle. I took a drum sanding wheel on a die-grinder and opened up the ID of the switch until it fit on the column. It was not easy, but I was committed.
Good luck.
Todd M posted:Thanks goodness for small victories.
Steering is almost finished. Gotta figure out what parts I need for the horn and gotta fabricate and paint a couple small tubes to cover those two screws under the dash. Does anybody else have a Flat Four banjo steering wheel? The wheel has a bit of play where the wires connect to the hub. Not crazy about it.
Todd, it just be the photo leading me astray, but what is the angle of your steering wheel relative to vertical ? The center of my horn button is about level with the 5 position on the speedo or temp gauge . Yours ?
@Todd M, the tube on a bus steering column is a smaller diameter than the tube on a beetle. I used a '67 bus switch. I used the bus housing on the left side and opened it up with a drum sander as Stan mentioned. I used an early beetle housing on the right side and it fit without opening it up. These early steering columns also have a short piece on the outside of the tube that runs from the switch housing toward the dash that conceals the wires.
Alan Merklin posted:The early columns are narrower and your signal switch is for that application.
After doing online research, it appeared that the column/tube got larger around '62, and your comment is just the confirmation I needed.
@Stan Galat - Funny you should mention the sanding drum, because I was trying to figure out how I was going to enlarge the hole without making it look like a 1st grade craft project. A sanding drum sounds perfect, or even an end of my stationary belt sander. That sander has REALLY come in handy since I started having to alter, modify or fab my own parts.
@David Stroud IM Roadster D - Here are a couple of photos. The profile of the steering wheel is taken with the camera as plumb as I could get it by eyesight. The front of the steering wheel photo is taken from my projected seating position.
Do you see a problem. I spent hours trying out different heights and angles. It feels comfortable. I generally drive with my left hand, at a seven position.
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Todd M posted:@David Stroud IM Roadster D - Here are a couple of photos. The profile of the steering wheel is taken with the camera as plumb as I could get it by eyesight. The front of the steering wheel photo is taken from my projected seating position.
Do you see a problem. I spent hours trying out different heights and angles. It feels comfortable. I generally drive with my left hand, at a seven position.
If it seems comfortable you're likely just fine. I think the lack of the dash eyebrow may have thrown me off.
There are clearance concerns with the clutch master cylinder when I mount/weld the brake pedal brakes to the frame, so I have to test fit with the the clutch line fitting installed. The clutch master cylinder is from Wilwood, and it's made for a banjo fitting, 3/8-24. Wildwood sells a banjo fitting for this master cylinder, so I will but it rather than looking for now that is less expensive. ( Hopefully I have learned my lesson that less expensive is more expensive if the part doesn't fit. ) The threaded end of the banjo fitting is AN-3, so I figure I will use AN-3 fittings on my clutch line to keep things simple on the clutch line, but the inlet fit spec on the slave cylinder is 3/8-24 IF Female. Does that mean the inlet flare is made for a 37 degree fitting or a 45 degree fitting? My understanding is that the 45 degree is standard on domestic cars and the 37 degree is the AN standard. Do I need to call Wilwood and ask, or does the 3/8-24 IF Female spec imply 45 degree? Or am I just missing something entirely?
And when I go to install the brake lines, should I use 45 degree inverted double flare or AN-3? The spec on the outlet size of the proportioning valve is 3/8-24 IF. There is that 'IF' again without saying if is a 378 degree flare or a 45 degree flare.
Edit 5 minutes later: I just realized. "Inverted flare" means the tube is bent back on itself which only the 45 degree flare does, whereas the 37 degree flare is not inverted, so anytime I see "inverted flare", it means 45 degree.
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@Stan Galat - AN fittings or IF for brake line and clutch line? I thought somewhere I read that you are a plumber, so I figured you would have a educated opinion.
I’m in my truck, away from my desk, so this is the “phone answer”, without handy pictures. Perhaps someone else can put up pictures of what you need.
To begin: brakes are evil.
I’m a pipefitter, not a plumber, but inverted flares (which aren’t used for anything but hydraulics) really don’t get used for either. They’re used pretty exclusively for brakes. As an aside, the various permutations of pipe fittings can get really confusing really fast so don’t feel bad.
The best thing I can suggest to straighten it out in your own mind would be to get the parts you want to use (master and slave cylinders, flexible lines), then take them to a NAPA auto-parts store and ask to see some 3/16 brake line and fittings that fit what you have. They won’t have everything, but that’s OK— you’re going to need some brake line anyhow.
If it were me, I’d reduce the amount of screwed joints whenever possible. I would (and have) silver solder a joint rather than use a screwed adapter. I would avoid adapting from AN to IF (ever, if possible). I would not try to cut flares in steel line (45 or 37°) unless I had no other choice, and I’ve got professional quality tools and a long history of doing it.
As a final thought before I head back to the salt mines— getting the right fittings is always worth sending away for.
Stan Galat posted:I’m in my truck, away from my desk, so this is the “phone answer”, without handy pictures. Perhaps someone else can put up pictures of what you need.
To begin: brakes are evil.
I’m a pipefitter, not a plumber, but inverted flares (which aren’t used for anything but hydraulics) really don’t get used for either. They’re used pretty exclusively for brakes. As an aside, the various permutations of pipe fittings can get really confusing really fast so don’t feel bad.
The best thing I can suggest to straighten it out in your own mind would be to get the parts you want to use (master and slave cylinders, flexible lines), then take them to a NAPA auto-parts store and ask to see some 3/16 brake line and fittings that fit what you have. They won’t have everything, but that’s OK— you’re going to need some brake line anyhow.
If it were me, I’d reduce the amount of screwed joints whenever possible. I would (and have) silver solder a joint rather than use a screwed adapter. I would avoid adapting from AN to IF (ever, if possible). I would not try to cut flares in steel line (45 or 37°) unless I had no other choice, and I’ve got professional quality tools and a long history of doing it.
As a final thought before I head back to the salt mines— getting the right fittings is always worth sending away for.
Muchas Gracias.
I'm gonna buy a lift.
Do the scissor jacks have too much upper structure that gets in the way of working on the car?
There are two Danmar MaxJax that I am interested in:
The first, DMJ-6 can be purchased for maybe $1699.00, and the M-6, which is ALI certified can be purchased for $2099.00. I looked up ALI certified, and I can't help but wonder if both aren't constructed exactly the same.
Then there is:
which can be purchased on eBay for $1599.00 including shipping, https://www.ebay.com/itm/APlus...4:g:WhYAAOSwaiBb8D3y . It would entail a permanent installation and necessitate a 220V line in my garage. Anybody have any experience with either of these? Or just an opinion?
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I thought of the MaxJack at one point but for some reason the thought of setting and removing them I did not like plus leaving them up in the way was also an issue I felt that I could see a problem. I wanted to try them but I also was wondering if I really had 4-6 inches of concrete and how to check it .. I guess I could see the advantages of a MaxJack but I can also see the danger of an imbalance load etc.
So OCD set in and I bought Quickjack and honestly it does what I like as I don't remove engines or tranny etc. I do wheels tires, oil fluid changes on tranny engine, brake etc big stuff I bring to my tech guy. Also at 21 inches you get to do stuff on the car sitting on a 4 wheel seat and it's pretty confortable.
What ever lift you decide on Be sure that it is a certified list.. there is a lot of Chinese products that have failed and al you need to do is do a search on You Tube to see the results of using sub standard lifts. Also, make sure that your anchor system is up to the job of securing the lift to the floor. BTW I had a 36" low rise scissor lift in my speedster shop and that worked well for the application ( even lifted my big F 150) but I would recommend a 42" mid rise scissor lift.
Hola Todd.........I bought the Max Jack like you posted Todd and it works really nice. 48" lift so I can sit on my rear under there with plenty of room. I didn't know how thick my driveway was so I drilled 8 each 1/4" holes in various areas of it to find out. I used a piece of wire to fish down in the holes to get an idea how thick it was. Luck was on my side ! It was 7" and more ! I didn't use the wedge Molly bolts. I bit the bullet and used the more expensive Epoxy bolt system. To test it I was chicken to lift my Speedster on it first so I put our Honda Element on first. I didn't fall down so I put my 2017 GMC Canyon on next and it passed too ! The Max Jack pillars have a set of wheels on them to maneuver them in and out of my Garage so it's not really too cumbersome. The yellow lift arms are in pieces so they aren't too bad to maneuver either.
After looking at a few systems I determined that the ones that have a "cross-bar" on the top is to hold up the hydraulic hoses and isn't designed to keep the two posts from caving in due to a post mounting failure. Of course, my hoses just lay on the pavement to and from the pump/reservoir which has wheels as well for maneuvering.
The shims they provide to get the posts perfectly vertical took a little messing around with the first time and so they are marked now so I know exactly where they are to be placed easily each time I mount the posts. Mounting it is a chore ! Drilling 10 each 7/8" holes in 7' of concrete is not fun ! I started with a 1/4' hole and worked up. Keeping the holes from drifting off their position is also "touchy" ! The benefits when done are worth it though !
The other part that I like is I didn't have to wire in a 220V power source with the Max Jack.
Lastly, The City of Arcadia already came by when I had the Speedster up on it and told me I couldn't have a car hoist in my drive way. I can tell you that this part of my driveway is obscured from view on three sides and the fourth by a gate. You really have to be looking carefully as you drive by to even notice when I have the car up on it. After showing him that it was portable and removable, he let me keep it. I'm sure he's been by to check since then and no more issues have occurred. I mention this because it could be a problem for others where your community has "covenants" or you mount this machinery right out in front of your home for everyone see and complain about it as an "eyesore" or "looks like a junk yard". I'm lucky that it's mounted in a discreet area. Hope this helps Todd................Bruce
Bruce you mean it's not in your front yard 
IaM-Ray posted:I thought of the MaxJack at one point but for some reason the thought of setting and removing them I did not like plus leaving them up in the way was also an issue I felt that I could see a problem. I wanted to try them but I also was wondering if I really had 4-6 inches of concrete and how to check it .. I guess I could see the advantages of a MaxJack but I can also see the danger of an imbalance load etc.
So OCD set in and I bought Quickjack and honestly it does what I like as I don't remove engines or tranny etc. I do wheels tires, oil fluid changes on tranny engine, brake etc big stuff I bring to my tech guy. Also at 21 inches you get to do stuff on the car sitting on a 4 wheel seat and it's pretty confortable.
I just looked up Quickjack and I like the price and the unobtrusiveness down the middle of the car. I will be needing to spend a lot of time underneath the car welding on the frame and installing engine and transmission mounts. I speculate that 21 inches may be too low for moving around a lot underneath. What do you think?
Alan Merklin posted:What ever lift you decide on Be sure that it is a certified list.. there is a lot of Chinese products that have failed and al you need to do is do a search on You Tube to see the results of using sub standard lifts. Also, make sure that your anchor system is up to the job of securing the lift to the floor. BTW I had a 36" low rise scissor lift in my speedster shop and that worked well for the application ( even lifted my big F 150) but I would recommend a 42" mid rise scissor lift.
I have never worked on a car with a scissor lift, so all I know is what I see in the photos. Does the upper portion of the scissor lift get in the way if you are working on the center of the car? If not, which scissor lift do you use?
The Scissor is affixed I would set the car on the lift according to the work to be done BEND PAK brand
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aircooled posted:
Code for a garage floor is 3.5 inches, so I will have to drill around also to find out how thick my garage floor is if I go with a MaxJax. Did you try using the holes in the plate as a guide for your bit, or are the verticals in a position to negate the use of the holes as guides?
I can not imagine installing a lift in my driveway. My neighbors would have a fit, and the HOA would probably have a notice in the mail before I finished the installation. We can't even leave a car parked on the street overnight.
Todd M posted:aircooled posted:Code for a garage floor is 3.5 inches, so I will have to drill around also to find out how thick my garage floor is if I go with a MaxJax. Did you try using the holes in the plate as a guide for your bit, or are the verticals in a position to negate the use of the holes as guides?
I can not imagine installing a lift in my driveway. My neighbors would have a fit, and the HOA would probably have a notice in the mail before I finished the installation. We can't even leave a car parked on the street overnight.
He takes the lift apart and puts it away when he’s not using it.
All good points to consider. In my case the MaxJack is working out best for me.
Todd's floor thickness will be the determining factor for use of a MaxJack. The 45" maximum lift height was the minimum for me on my needs list. Using a different lift pad I can get 3" more. Being able to put it away when not in use was a plus. Having used a scissors type lift previously, I knew I wanted a more unencumbered work area under the car to be exposed. Scissors lifts do have a place in our needs list at times though.
My only regret with buying a lift was not getting one 20+ years ago. It makes it more enjoyable to do serious work while sitting on my duff under the car with a Stella Artois in the shelf of my brake stool under me. I even built a short two shelf tool tray to have next to me when I'm under there..................Bruce
P.S.......Yes you can use the post mounting plate as a drill guide if you start out directly with the proper size bit for the Molly bolts. But....It will take a long time to drill the holes this way. Oh...DO go rent a big powerful hammer drill, with bits, right off. You'll need it unless you just want to burn up your Craftsman 1/2" hammer drill
I bought the Harbor Freight medium rise scissor lift, rated for 6000 pounds.
It weighs about 950 pounds, but can be moved when needed. There is no permanent installation, it rests on a flat CONCRETE floor, not on blacktop or anything else.
I installed a 220v outlet for the hydraulic pump, not a big deal. I also made a 2.5'' or so platform to drive the car on, as my Spyder sits so low. The lift sits about 3.5" from the floor. For the platform I used the plywood from the crate it came in plus some 2x3" lumber that I ripped down to size(2"). Glue and screws hold the platform. Three long pieces and cross-pieces on the ends, and a couple pieces to hold the runners together on either end.
I plan to take it with me when I retire(and move!), it works great, especially with only a 1500 pound load. You can arrange the lift to leave both the front end and rear completely open from below. With the lift all the way up it's easy for brake/tire work, and cleaning bugs and tar.
Hint: Mother's Day(today!) 25% off coupon really helps, and shipping was about 100 bucks. I ordered mine exactly a year ago. Takes about a month to get.
PS: your car parks over the lift so it's really never in the way.
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"I speculate that 21 inches may be too low for moving around a lot underneath. What do you think?"
You're right. Rolling around on your back while avoiding stuff down there AND wielding a welding nozzle will be difficult, at best, not to mention the backaches you'll probably get. At the very least, for what you'll be doing, I would get a scissors lift like Danny has and be done with it unless you really wish to have a larger lift for the future.
I've helped build five BendPak 4-post lifts, one 10,000 and four 7,000 units. I would strongly suggest that this is a 3 or 4 person job - those upright posts on either two or four post versions are HEAVY! We built six of them all in two weeks (I was in a car club and we did a bulk buy of six of them) and always used the floor plate as a drill guide. The first one took over 2 days because we didn't know what we were doing and read the instructions a lot (and had issues with the safety lock air lines). The last one was assembled and erected in a little over a morning by four guys and a Border Collie.
One of the club members worked at Suncoast Rentals so we got a couple of hammer drills with a bunch of bits and went at it. Two were set up in what used to be an old warehouse building (the 7K and 10K) for the Club Garage/shop and the other four were erected in private garages (indoors). I have never dealt with a 2-post lift and would probably only buy a 4-poster if I had the room and 220 volts (and money!)
While there are lots of outside lifts all across the sunbelt down south, I would keep it indoors just to prevent rusting of moving parts.
Gordon Nichols posted:I have never dealt with a 2-post lift and would probably only buy a 4-poster if I had the room and 220 volts (and money!)
If you are buying this to work on cars, as opposed to storing them, a 2-post lift is better in every possible way. 4-post for storage and light work, 2-post to work on the car.
Every commercial shop in America has 2-post lifts. There’s nothing wrong with a 4-post lift to store a specialty vehicle with the daily driver underneath, but it’s not really meant for working on a car
I can’t imagine paying for something that didn’t lift at least 42”. If headroom is the issue, and a 2-post lift just isn’t possible, Danny’s scissor-lift is a great alternative.
Maximum height off the floor is stated as 56" on mine, plenty to do almost anything, except stand up underneath. I can't raise the lift all the way anyway, as my garage ceiling is just over 7' tall.
If you have a mechanic's seat you can roll underneath without banging your head.
Lots of times I raise the car a couple feet plus, and use the creeper.
It's WAY better than jack and jackstands.
A four post list means you can;'t work between the wheels as well. Just saying Sound advice on all the comments.
I have owned a 4 post lift for 13 years now. It was bought for the storage capability and to allow me to work on cars. My lift came with movable metal trays that hold a jack each so a car can be raise up off the lift to work on suspension and brakes. It does both functions great and I have had zero trouble with it. I cant remember the brand but I bought it at the street cat nationals 13 years ago and got a deal on the show model . I do have a high ceiling garage that allows me to raise the car over 6' high. It is the best car related tool I have ever bought. I spent years laying on my back working on cars while dirt and rust fell into my face and eyes. I think the lift cost less than $2000.00. I kicked myself for not buying one sooner.
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@Jimmy V. Very nice