For sale Freshly built turnkey 2276 Type 1 engine

Screamin' deal, gents. GLWTS, Jim.

The engine is also listed on Samba for $200.00 more. Any SOC member gets the lower price.

 I have a Raby type 4 motor just starting the build process that you can have choices on the build if you are interested. If I don't have an interested party in the next few days I am going to have it built into a 200HP + 2.8L (maybe 3.0L) torque monster engine. Why you say, because I always wanted too and it sounds like it would be a fun engine. It will be sold as well, probably in the $7500.00 neighborhood. Still a hell of a deal.

Great price Jimmy. I am putting my IM Roadster up for auction next month. If I were keeping it, I'ld snag this engine. 

Smoking deal on the type1. I'd raise the price on the type4 though, you'd be letting it go too cheap.

DannyP Thanks for the input, notice the words "probably and neighborhood" were used because I don't know the exact build size yet or the cost of the parts and the build. The engine builder and I have a time set aside this coming week to discuss options and prices. I may be way off on the price but maybe not. I am not trying to make a big profit I have fun doing this and also get to play with some really cool engines. It is Win/Win I say!

  I was driving the Puma with the type 1 engine for sale  this morning and it is a super, super nice engine. I finally got the carb jetting from being very close to dialed in perfectly and it has made a huge difference in smoothness and power. The engine went from being a nice engine to an amazing engine that should be a keeper for any sane person.  I won't mind even a little bit if it doesn't sell. This thing really makes the Puma fly. I am glad the Puma has 4 wheel disc brakes. LoL.

Damn, Jimmy. I wish I was in a place where I could pull this off. I have a nagging feeling that my Spyder motor is on its last legs. I've been fantasizing about dropping this motor in ever since you started posting about it. 

Unfortunately, I'd have to sell some of my favorite toys in a bear market or eat Ramen for a couple of years.

GLWS. 

@dlearl476 posted:

Damn, Jimmy. I wish I was in a place where I could pull this off. I have a nagging feeling that my Spyder motor is on its last legs. I've been fantasizing about dropping this motor in ever since you started posting about it. 

Unfortunately, I'd have to sell some of my favorite toys in a bear market or eat Ramen for a couple of years.

GLWS. 

That have made many culinary advances with what you can do with Ramen these days. Go for it. 

That engine at that price makes me regret some past decisions. An absolute steal.

Engine has been Sold! Thanks for all the well wishes and comments. It is going to a SOC member for their Speedster. They couldn't use the stainless 1 5/8" A1 sidewinder header and polished muffler and dual tip exhaust so it is for sale for $1000.00 which is a little below cost and it is new with less than 500 miles on it and no 5 week wait to have A1 make it. The part with the tips can be swapped out for center or side exit to suite your needs. It will fit a Speedster, Bug or Ghia.

@Robert M posted:

That have made many culinary advances with what you can do with Ramen these days. Go for it. 

I have my ways. I buy the good stuff. Kimchi and ground turkey make it quite delish'.

Another favorite is "Hot Tuna." Tuna fish and Shiraca.  

I just hung up from my Engine builder and the 2056 type 4 engine I bought from Chris Sutton is now becoming a 2786 Torque monster engine that should develop over 220 ft/lbs of torque at 3500 rpms. The engine build is going to be 104 P&Cs with an 82mm stroke.  I will love to see how it pushes the soon to be engineless Puma.

@Jimmy V. posted:

I just hung up from my Engine builder and the 2056 type 4 engine I bought from Chris Sutton is now becoming a 2786 Torque monster engine that should develop over 220 ft/lbs of torque at 3500 rpms. The engine build is going to be 104 P&Cs with an 82mm stroke.  I will love to see how it pushes the soon to be engineless Puma.

Dude.

I'm gonna' need a moment...

Jimmy, that looks awesome! Good luck to the buyer, you made an excellent purchase. I'd love to run this motor in my car to see what it's got.

To the buyer, please do two things: 

Please attach the hose to the firewall in your Speedster. I recall several cars going up in flames because the hose got sucked toward and rubbed on the fan. Not good! Obviously there is nothing to attach to at the moment.

Get rid of those worm-drive hose clamps, and use spring clamps instead. They'll never damage the fuel hoses or come loose. I know this from personal experience.

 Can you show me a sample again Danny I have worm gears on my fuel lines and I was thinking of changing them, how do you know what size to use On what hose is my question ?  @DannyP

Ray, you have EFI. The spring clamps I use from NAPA are for low-pressure lines.

These are nice, and don't cut up your hose like a worm-gear clamp.

Your FLAPS will have them. Search EFI hose clamps.

Thanks, Stan. Too early for my brain to post pictures.

Bingo Stan. That is what I use. I never felt I cold trust the pressure I was getting form the spring clamps.

I have those clamps from the main gas line to the filter in the engine compartment. Maybe Carlos is right, I also am unsure about the spring clamp tension on those lines that is why I was asking how to determine how much pressure or which size to use.   UPDATE:  I had a leak once when I was running the engine and I happened to have the engine lid up and caught the leak... since then I never know if they are tight enough and I am worried that I might overtighten them so that is why I was thinking of getting the spring type. 

You can get an assortment for about $20.
My only other unasked for 2 cents is, I would run the line so I could keep an eye on those clamps. I love how it looks hidden behind the fan, but ...

Nailed it

Simple to attach the fuel line to the top of the bell housing tin.

Unless your initials start with J and end with S, and you use house siding for tins and such. Some of those cars(Tom's green coupe) had the fuel lines floating in the breeze...and into the FAN and was cut and almost worn through until I spotted it!

Hose clamps are one of my fetishes. I use Norma and ABA stainless steel clamps on everything that requires one. Best sources I've found are CAP Hardware out in CA and BelMetric.*

*I was whining about not being able to find the oddball bolt sizes on my 68 Ducati single on a motorcycle forum and a long-time Porsche mechanic told me about BelMetric. Turns out they're also about the only place in America where you can still buy blue cloth-wrapped brake fluid hose, too. 

@IaM-Ray posted:

 Can you show me a sample again Danny I have worm gears on my fuel lines and I was thinking of changing them, how do you know what size to use On what hose is my question ?  @DannyP

Throw a vernier caliper on them. I generally go with a clamp 1mm smaller than the hose ID i.e. the OD of my 9mm fuel line is 14mm, so I use a 13mm clamp. There's a bit of range in the clamps, so using a smaller one keeps nut/bolt separated when they're tight. 

BelMetric is fantastic. Thanks for that.

As we drift off topic, I use braided steel hoses (outer layer of course) whenever I can. (You can even find them in blue.)   
With those I do use the regular hose clamps, because they can put a little more torque on the braided steel. 

Is this ok?

No. If you're going to use braided steel line, then you should go whole-hog and use AN fittings as well. The braided hose is designed to be used with the fittings, not hose clamps.

Unless you were just trying to be facetious.

I prefer the nylon braided hose(and fittings designed for them) for my oil lines.

Low pressure gas hoses should be ethanol-resistant.

High pressure EFI hoses should be either rubber and gas-specific or AN steel braided and probably teflon-lined.

Thanks

This pict above shows the metal to rubber changeover deep in the engine compartment. 

THis pict above is the feed of fuel to the bottom of the filter. 

Filter above feeds to fuel injection... 

So I went out to see my setup on my car for fuel line. The metal line comes out to the area near the YELLOW BAND. deep in engine compartment and It goes to a rubber line and covered with a web protector. Finally feeds the bottom of the filter and finally to the fuel injection.

The issue I had was the bottom filter hose came loose and was leaking.  Needless to say I keep an eye on them NOW.  

ON the other post of the 356 video, they note that the fuel line is all in metal except for one flex line rubber vibration joint.  Starting to make a list of modifications.  

BTW my fuel line is 14mm rubber 

Why don't you all start your own thread dedicated to the hose clamp fetish you have. By the way, I have been wrenching on for 44 years now and have owned over 150 cars along the way. I have never had an issue with properly installed worm gear style hose clamps. If the hose and nipple are the correct sizes the worm gear clamp does a wonderful job tightening the hose down to keep it from being pulled off the barbs or barb on the end of the nipple. I would say if they where as dangerous or bad as couple of you are convinced then I would have had a failure during the last 44 years. I am convinced that I am not the only one on this forum that can say the same. I have nothing against someone wanting to use a "better" clamp but don't belittle those who choose to use a different style clamp. This thread has now drifted to the point people are feeling compelled to show pictures of their cars to prove to the group that they have the "right kind" of clamps. 

Sorry Jimmy I guess we should have started a new one.

Jimmy, that was not my intent. It was just a forewarning to the new engine's owner to secure the fuel line. I've no idea who it is or what experience he may/may not have.

I'm definitely sorry to have drifted your sweet engine thread. I apologize.

I've been working on cars just as long as you have, and I've seen those worm-drive clamps come loose, therefore I don't use them any more.

To each his own. Cheers.

It seems we did go sideways with this , since someone noticed the hose clamps on the fuel line. I have seen enough engine fires to be one of the ones who thinks this is important. I see it as a safety issue and worth the hijack. But that is just me. Sorry if you got our panties in a bunch Jimmy.

"For sale" threads should not be open for comment. I've said it lots of times, and I can't understand why they aren't locked to everybody but the OP.

Sorry for any part I may have played, @Jimmy V.

Apparently the red statement at the top of the thread isn't being heeded or enforced. 

Engine ready to ship to the new owner. I hope it passes the inspection of the SOC  safety and regulations committee.

@Jimmy V. posted:

Engine ready to ship to the new owner. I hope it passes the inspection of the SOC  safety and regulations committee.

For $500, I know a guy who knows a guy that will sign off on the required safety paperwork in triplicate for you ....

Looks great.