No brake lights

Tinkering with the speedy.

Noticed no brake lights.

Swapped out 7.5 fuse, it appeared fried. First fuse in the series from the left under the dash just to the left of the steering column on my 2002 Vintage.

Checked all four rear light bulbs - all working.

Checked all other fuses, lights, blinkers etc. and systems and everything is functioning fine.

Ideas on what to do next?

Thanks in advance.

Checked the switch?

Mike, I am bereft of technical skills so I am lost. Where is it and what do I do?

On the end of the master cylinder (where the brake pedal is connected to) the lights are activated by a 2-3 prong switch that can and frequently go bad. They cost about $4.00 and can easily be replaced.

First check if there is a wire shorting (would explain the fuse) or if a prong came off.

Access the switch from the drivers side front wheel arch.

Unbelievable!

I barely get done typing, visit the facilities, come back and have the answers.

Thank you gentlemen!

Bob

We're fast around here today, eh Le Marteau?

It will look something like this.

Bob, the brake light switch is threaded into the master brake cylinder, directly in front of the brake pedal on the other side of the footwell.
If you took off the driver's side front tire, it would bite you. There may be either one or two switches on your master cylinder, depending on whether or not you've got one of the sockets plugged, as I do (below).
The switch is a pressure switch, not a toggle or button, and its moving parts are internal (and low-bidder assembled). They go bad from time to time nowadays, and I've always been told to find and use the oldest ones that'll fit.
The switch will be about the size of a gumball, faceted on the sides for ease of wrenching, and will have electrical prongs and wires coming off the end facing away from the master cylinder.
If there are two switches on your model, take the wires off of the one they're on, and connect them to the like positions on the other switch. That may fix your problem.
Since the brake system is closed and hydraulic, I'd have your replacement switch in-hand before taking the dead one off ... or get'cher brake bleeder equipment out.

Mike:

Could you send the mechanic in the photo in your post over to help me fix this? She seems to have mechanical and other attributes that I really appreciate and admire.

Cory:

It's a double like yours but with two switches. I'll get the tire off get it up and switch the connection.

Thanks!

You bet. Good luck.

Also, clean the heck out of the little shovel connectors that attach your wires to the switch(es). In my case, I finally got good brake lights after I replaced those.

Oh, and don't forget grounds. Lots of guys check the ground first (just wire a known good ground to the bulb) and lots of times that's all there is to it.

Those connectors are likely to get some water splashed on 'em, which will lead to corrosion over time. You may want to put some conductive sealer in there.

I went through three pressure activated switches and gave up. Nothing like having non working brake lights . So I installed a regular contact switch. Never had any problems since.

Joe...any chance you could post a photo of the switch and mounting bracket you used?
Thanks, Brian

The original VW harness had rubber boots that covered the connectors on the switches.

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C16-411-539

might be good addition if you get caught in wet conditions.

I'll try . The cars is up on the lift for the winter.

I'll try . The cars is up on the lift for the winter.

How did you make out with the switch, Bob?

Cory:

Frankly, haven't gotten to it yet. I'm swamped this week and probably not going to touch it until Saturday.

Also looking for the best jacking point on my Vintage.

Your recommendation was echoed by two professional VW mechanics I happened to engage in conversation about the various merits and drawbacks to different displacement Type 1's.

Sounds like heat is the major enemy of my 2110 assuming all else is equal (and it never is).

In any event, thanks for the great guidance, and I will post as soon as I get under it and swap conections.

Are the rest of you guys running a 7.5 amp fuse for your tail lights?

Sounds a little light, to me. I would probably put in a 10 amp and see what happens. I doubt that the brake switches are shorting out - they usually open up (so the lights never some on with applied brake pedal pressure). I will agree, though (along with most of the Street Rodder community), that the current crop of hydraulic switches are junk. You're lucky if you get 18 months out of them.

If you want to convert to a mechanical switch (highly recommended), the best one I've yet found is at your local NAPA store. Wander on in and ask the counter guy for a brake light switch for a 1937 - 1953 Chevy pickup. You'll get a bullet-proof mechanical switch with a mounting bracket on the bottom and a 4" long actuator lever. I think the bracket wants 10-32 screws, but I drilled out the holes and re-threaded them for 1/4-20, simply because I had bolts the right length kicking around. Mount it on the floor near the brake pedal such that the actuator arm is pushing against the pedal arm when at rest. Pushing the pedal forward (i.e., stepping on the brakes) allows the switch arm to move forward and closes the circuit and Voila! Brake lights! The switch gets covered by the carpet (although the actuator lever is still visible, but not much.)

gn

Heres the switch I'm using.http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Universal-Mechanical-Brake-Light-Switch,1972.html

Yup, same as mine. I think they're about the same price at NAPA.

Just bend the last 3/8" of the arm to 90 degrees so it forms a "foot" for the brake pedal arm to push against.

The hardest part was finding a couple of barrel connectors to fit those on the switch. (It would have been nice to find some bent at 90 degrees, but I lived with straight ones).

Cool tech-tip, Joe! Thanks for sharing that link!

That is a good switch Joe.. I like it

I found a solid brass push button ( N/C normaly closed ) and put it behind the brake petal on a L bracket bolted to the floor


It is more compact and almost as good as the old 1955 GM truck switch which that looks like. LMC sells them as well

Both are pretty reliable !!!!!