No Spark

Hi all,

Well, I finally installed the engine. When I went to start it, no vroom. I may have plugged the distributer in backwards(Pertronix Ignitor). I checked and corrected. Still no spark at coil wire.

I replaced the distributer with spare 009 with points. Wired it backwards again. What an ass. Blew fuse when starting. No spark.

I replaced blue coil with spare. No spark.

I replaced the condenser on backup distributer. No spark.

I haven't changed the coil wire yet. That is next.

Give me your best guess. I am running out of ignitions.

Eric, this is going to sound odd.... but you might go back to your ignition switch. First check and see if you are getting power to the coil.

Eric ,
If you reversed the two wires on the Pertronix Ignitor you fried it in an instant.( Red to Pos and black to neg on coil.

I am thinkig your coil is new ,But heck I've seen new one's go bad.

Never assume anything. But I have to agree, you may have a lose wire at the switch. If thats the case, all your parts are still good.

One more thing ,Inside your distributor on some 009s there is a ground wire make sure it is not broken.

I have power to coil. I tested on positive(12v). I also tested on negative and found 12 volts. When I rotate engine, power on negative terminal drops off (points open?). I believe this to be correct.

I understand that the Pertronix is fried. Oh well time for Pertronix Ignitor II. But first I need to get it firing on points at least.

I have a third blue coil. I could try that.

It just isn't that complicated. At least it's snowing again here. The warm weekend was killing me. I needed to drive. I have the fever. My Motorcycle just doesn't do it for me anymore.

Eric: Do you have a dwell meter or are you setting the points by feeler gauge? Either way, if they're even in the ball park and the coil's OK you should get some sort of spark.

If you check the voltage at the negative coil terminal and turn the engine over, you should see the voltmeter pulse as the points open and close to indicate that they're working, at least.

If you have 12V at the coil + terminal, and the - terminal is pulsing as it turns over, and the points are adjusted even kinda close, and the rotor is correct for the cap you're using, and the distributor cap center conductor button hasn't fallen out (it happens), and the rotor top conductor is there (looks like a bent copper strip), and the coil HV lead to the distributor is conducting and plugged in all the way on both ends, you should at least get a spark at a plug lying on bare metal on the engine to show you it's all working.

gn

I have all of the above except the spark. I am holding the coil wire above the center plug on the distrubtor to see a spark. Nothing!

Sounds like coil issue doesn't it?

I'm actually setting the points with a match book cover. LOL

Maybe I should tell my Wife I need a new engine.

Time to update from 1776 to 3500cc.

Protronics as I understand has to have a rezister added to the hot lead on some vws.

I would still check that distributer .

Elimenate the impossible and the possible though improbile must be true (Sir Arther Conan Doyle)

Have you checked the solenoid? One wire goes to battery one to starter and the wire on a terminal goes to the ignition switch? Have you tried this?

The battery is OK? No dead spot on the terminal? I have seen this alot.

To verify the coil, take the center wire from the distributor cap, turn your key to on, with a wrench turn the nut on the generator , WHILE HOLDING THE WIRE 1/8" AWAY FROM THE MOTOR . REMEMBER, INSULATE YOURSELF 'DO NOT HOLD THE WIRE WITH YOUR BARE HANDS', Instan heart JUMP start. And curly hair, maybe even the smell of burnt hair in your nostrils. Use a rubber handled pliers.

If you see a good spark your coil is OK. A weak spark means your coil is the culprit.

Use an ohmmeter and check the resistance of your coil wire. Pull the rotor and check the resistance from the center to the tip of the rotor. You can check the coil by pulling the distributor wire then attach a wire to the coil, turn on the ignition make a spark gap on the coil wire to ground, then tap the wire that you attached to the coil to ground, each tap should produce a spark.

Barry,
My system worked fine when I pulled the engine to replace pushrod tube seals.

Mike,
I used a volt meter and I have 12 volts to the positive side of coil (15).
I charged the battery all winter. Cranking power is fine.
I like the idea of turning the engine manually. It doesn

If you have the room and the money , Squirrl back a while and get you a Mallery Photronic dizzy. Pricy but very good.

If your like me and a bit deprived in funds Get another Protronics kit.

I need a source for a Pertronix IgnitorII and Pertonix "Second Strike". JC Whitney has the IgnitorI for $69.95. But I really want to get the latest version.

I got a Pertronix II from Retro Rockets Norfolk, Conn. 860-542-5753. The first one went dead after a couple of months and was replaced under warranty. The new unit works great.

Pertronix is a good inexpensive ignition source but if it does crap out you're out of luck ....I had the old style Pertronix come loose at the rivet to the backing plate, it happened as I was entering the grounds at a car show...I had to pull the Pertronix from the distributor and pound the rivet back in with a rock of all things, but it worked! Best to have a spare 009 distributor with a spare Pertronix or standard points / condensor set up in the "tool box"