No spark (sorry)

My IM has NOT been running since before Christmas. It will crank without problems, but won't fire. I've confirmed there is current to the positive pole in the coil. I purchased a devise that plugs into the spark plug wire and connects to the spark plug. When current flows the device lights up. I tested the devise on my Tracker with success, but get no light when hooked up to my IM. What else can I check to determine why I've not getting spark?

jordon, what did you do last?? changed points or anything?? if nothing was touched
then check for a spark (put the fancy tool back in the box), pull the coil wrie out of the cap, (with brakes on, neutral, chocked etc..) have a freind bump the eng. over while
holding the wire about 1/2" away from the center electrode on the cap. spark??
if so then your problem lies from there to the plugs; rotor, cap, wires. if not the take the cap off and inspect the points, are they opening and closing fully? often when people
(ask me how i know) reinstall points they shift while tightening or they ground it to the
distributor body by accident. you can also check for spark by prying the points open
and closed (key in on position), you should see the spark jump the coil wire gap (like before). for the price i'd replace the points and condenser then check again.
it's probably something very simple.
oops-please check back thru the threads about a tach wire grounding under the dash
causing trouble. disconnect that and check before doing above.

Jordan:
WHen you test for spark always wear rubber soled shoes. ALso I would spend $2 for a plastic pair of plug pliers. Used them for 30 years pulling one plug off at a time wiht a running engine without incident, The one time I got cocky it was a hot summer night and I was shoeless. A friend was in need so I told him to turn the motor over while I held the coil wire to the block. Unfortunately the spark determined that I was a better ground than the block. I can still feel that 50,000 volts running thru my body. Granted very few amps but still no fun.
Good luck.

Jordan........ do you have Comp-U-Fire or another module instead of Points? Let us know. I may have a suggestion.

Also, you are getting gas, right?

Listen to Jim: that's a really good question.

If you have a Pertronix or Compu-fire or other electronic ignition module, the process of correction is a little different than if you have points.

Along with that, my first suggestion would be to get a cheap voltmeter from Radio Shack and test the ignition side of the coil (the side opposite to the wire going to the distributor) to see if you have 12V to the coil with the igintion key turned "on". It may simply be a dirty or blown fuse.....

If you have electronic ignition, you can test just the coil by removing the (big) coil wire from the distributor and laying it somewhere such that the disti end is within 1/4" of exposed metal on the engine case. Then remove the (small) distributor wire at the coil and attach another piece of wire to that terminal about 18" - 24" long. Turn on your ignition (the "key") and, while keeping away from the big coil wire but still able to see that exposed end, try grounding that small wire you just connected for a short instant at a time (you're simulating being the points, here, so just touch it to ground briefly). If the coil is OK, you should see a short, decent spark at that (big) exposed, coil Hi Voltage end, whenever you make that ground connection.

gn

"When you test for spark always wear rubber soled shoes."

Ralph's right, any and all protection against high voltage is a good idea, that's why I always wear a condom as well . . .

I wonder what the dielectric coefficient of that condom is........?

Gordon: It depends on how much dieelectric lube he uses.

BD

Jim, I have electronic ignition.

Gordon & Bill: I use just about a quart......

Very well could be it. Wouldn't be the first time one of these fails.
Any kind of burnt electrical smells in the distributor?

BD

i've learned again, never assume, never assume, never assume.

Jordy: (and good thinkin', JIM!)

My first guess, too, would be the module in the disti, but I would still check out the coil while you're waiting for a new module to arrive....

I know of at least three Compufires or Pertronix Distributor modules going out. Sometimes they take a few days of intermittent firing, and other times they just cook.... If you have one of these modules just replace it (40-50 bucks). If you run a conventional coil set up with a compufire you can keep a set of points for back up if the module glitches. I am not an expert... just have seen this symptom a few times and think it may... may, be your culprit.

My first Compufire lasted a month, the second one is still going 30,000 miles latter. Still on long trips I took a spare .009 with Comp-U-Fire installed and tucked away in a road repair bag. I figured I could slap a .009 in faster in the dark, or rain, than trying to put in points.

Again, this is just an idea for you to consider. Your glitch may be elsewhere...

And you say you are getting gas, right?

Jim:

Do you have the distributor mounting bracket pre-installed on your spare distributor??? Someone recommended that to me once and it made a whole lot of sense. That way, you can have the disti pre-timed right on the mounting bracket, and then just remove the hold-down nut, pull out the old and pop in the new disti and it's already timed right on the money.

gn

oops.....

Sure did Gordon. That was on my VS. I did that for the Knotts run last year. I thought about Murphy.... so I wanted it easy to pull a dizzy and drop another. A guy at a shop here recommended it, and .009s are cheap, so!

Jim,
Great idea. I have heard stories of fizzled out Compufire and Pertronix. I will get an other 009 with points to take on the trek to Knotts.

My spare Pertronix saved my butt while on our last cruise in MD. I just changed the unit though, instead of the whole dizzy. Easily done as long as you have light to work by.

BD